Can anyone help??? (1 Viewer)

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It gives me the impression that something starts to deform when hot, still not leaking but when you stop it gets that extra heat that makes it leak false air. After 10 min. it cools enough to close again.

Did you check the airflow meter?

OK i just checked it as best i could anyways. FSM says to check resistance at different temperatures. I dont have a way to measure accurate temperatures. I just checked resistance when engine cold then again after intervals of run time. all seemed to be within specifications.

Will be checking this again tomorrow after i get some kind of thermometer. Im also wondering if the 20 year old catalytic converters could have anything to do with this problem.
 
when was the last time you filled up the gas tank? bad fuel maybe?
 
The catalic converter is not likely to be the problem, the problem would occure in every situation when it is blocked or when it gets hot but if your engine runs idle the catalic converter wil be colder than with higher revs.

You should messure resistance on the airflowmeter when the problem occures.
 
I have read all the replies. One thing you did not mention was, did it sputter, then excellerate up to highway speeds?

It may be worth to take it to a shop to check for coil loading under excelleration. Also, have the Fuel pressure checked under a load, and have the MAF or MAP sensor checked for proper voltage.

When was the last time you replaced the plugs? and wires? It is common on hondas 91-2001 to have the coils dialectric breakdown and partial short under a engine load because the owner failed to replace the plugs when the electrods got to large. Just not such about these trucks

I do not think this is a blocked cat issue. he said it sputters. Blocked cat may or may not start and will sound well...muffled much more so then if the exaust had not been blocked. The way to eliminate the cat as a issue if its blocked is to remove the EGR valve then start and excellerate the engine.
 
when was the last time you filled up the gas tank? bad fuel maybe?
I thought at first that bad gas was my problem but have had 2 or 3 different tanks of gas through with no difference.

I have read all the replies. One thing you did not mention was, did it sputter, then excellerate up to highway speeds?

It may be worth to take it to a shop to check for coil loading under excelleration. Also, have the Fuel pressure checked under a load, and have the MAF or MAP sensor checked for proper voltage.

When was the last time you replaced the plugs? and wires? It is common on hondas 91-2001 to have the coils dialectric breakdown and partial short under a engine load because the owner failed to replace the plugs when the electrods got to large. Just not such about these trucks

I do not think this is a blocked cat issue. he said it sputters. Blocked cat may or may not start and will sound well...muffled much more so then if the exaust had not been blocked. The way to eliminate the cat as a issue if its blocked is to remove the EGR valve then start and excellerate the engine.

A few weeks ago when the problem first occured it would sputter, and after i feathered the pedal and stumbled a quarter mile or so things would smooth out and i could be on my way. Now i have to wait at least ten minutes before i can move.
 
If your on your way, then its not a blocked cat. Look at other options.

I know from a drive-ability perspective as you have mentioned, that often on other cars, it is the map sensor, tps sensor, or coil shoring out under engine loading conditions. I think you said your truck is MAF sensor. Usually, the heated wire will get coated with dust or oil and would affect engine performance under all conditions.

I would find a shop and just have them plug in a two or three channel scanner and see what the outputs of those sensors are. For hondas, if the coil is partially shorting under load...or even starting! it will show a spark with the plugs out of the engine. typically, spark plugs will show a blue strong spark. Weak sparks are orange in color indicating high resistance in the secondary circuit and will not start.

Get back with us and tell us what you find.
 
Are you saying that it only happens after a freeway drive? I had a bad idle which would result in a stall while exiting the freeway sometimes. Turned out the EGR was so gummed up it was getting stuck open and killing the car. Just another thing to consider.
 
check the temp sensor wire running to the thermstat housing and the wires going to the mass airflow both wires are knowen to have bad connections over time.

I think you can rule out fie and fuel, you are looking at a code 51 problem, its a simple fix if you can find it.

one more thing...........how did you install the TPS and where did you buy it?

Its possible it was installed wrong?
 
A plugged exhaust system (cat or muffler) usually results in the engine running hot to over-heating. If that is not the case then I'd shelve considering it until the more like options are investigated and eliminated.

These should be L-Jetronic clone MAF's, so they are the air-door/air-flap type of MAF's, not a hot wire type of MAF.

If the fuel pressure is within spec during the problem I'm inclined to suggest just trying a different coil and ignitor. Should be able to find one here in the classifieds.
 
Sorry for the delay on this thread. I just wanted to thank all who helped i really appreciate it. The problem eneded up being a combination of a bad air flow meter, and a somewhat dirty egr tube and valve. Thanks agan guys.
 
Thank you for getting back to us

As I speculated that it could have been maf/map sensor. Also mentioned was partially stuck open egr valve would make engine run rough or stall.

Glad we could help.
 

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