Can a timing belt change lead to engine failure?

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Update, engine is in but currently running rough, I have no other information on why but I suspect no sparks/hoses/injectors were replaced but re-used.
 
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the engine is faulty..... can't believe this, shop is very bummed. any one recommend where to get a legit rebuilt engine for an 06 lx 470
 
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Usually whatever engine seller offered them, is what you get. What warranty are they offering?

They can check compression and oil pressure once running, and give you a report card. If good should last as long, as properly cared for.
If any contaminants (dirt/sand/etc.) falls into cylinders. Compression will change (drop), within 2K to 5K miles. Have redone by 3rd party, at 5K.
Typically, an engine with water entry into cylinders will smoke in 20K to 30K miles, if not run within a few weeks of water entry.

BTW: A 100K miles 06 LX470 engine, is a very rare find. To find one in only about a week, is supper lucky. Post a few pic of engine, making sure one is of right head (passage side) VIN # plate. If was me; I'd run carfax on the VIN #.

IMHO: Any engine close to your mileage, is fair.
turns out the engine ( newer engine) they got from c ru iser parts is SHOT, :(
 
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They found the engine fast. So I'm not surprised it's bad. Even if seller covers it. They don't usually cover shipping & labor at most Yards. Typically yards offers replacement only, not cash back.

I do remote inspection on 100 & 200 series, and their engines. Which searching for not only vehicles, but even more so for engines. I learned what to look for and ask!

The VVT 100 series 4.7L, is more difficult to find than non VVT. I learned the hard-way, to do my homework as if a vehicle purchase. First one I purchase was a bad engine. It's car fax and service history was good, and it was low mileage. But what I failed realize at the time. They can't be exposed the the weather, not even covered with tarp. Unless hood and both fenders on, and hood closed/sealing. I don't even want seller washing, as special care needs taken on VVT more then non. Also a red flag, is if intake manifold "ever" in history, removed. This would be for say starter or S.A.I service, etc. If a yards sells any parts requiring intake manifold removed, I'd not touch it. If VIN number not on RH head, I'll not buy. As no way to track history.

Personally I feel USA made is not as good. Many Tundra & Sequoia (USA made) have rod knock. Made in Japan, I pay up for. A 100 series VVT, I'd pay top dollar, as is less labor to install. But a GX470 or 4runner 4.7 VVT is fine. Point is, get best engine, near same miles or less. In ones local area is best, as can be scope. But that could take waiting a very long time for.

A good used engine will be better, IMHO, that a commercially purchased rebuild. Rebuild's don't use OEM parts, in any I looked at.

Last I looked about 2 years ago. There was not and has never been any JDM 4.7L shipped to the USA. Anyone claiming to have one, ask for pictures of VIN plate on RH head.

If insurance involved. Toyota does sell a short block and heads separably ~$6.5K IIRC. They don't sell crate (long block) engines, last I checked. To this day, I've not seen one, to see where made. As they may be USA made.

If it was my rig, I'd get involved in engine selection. Looking daily!

Good luck.
 
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Man, really sorry to hear that. Agree w/ 2001LC - time to actively search for a 4.7L VVT Japan engine. Looks like car-part is showing a couple in NY.
Thank you all so far for this
They found the engine fast. So I'm not surprised it's bad. Even if seller covers it. They don't usually cover shipping & labor at most Yards. Typically yards offers replacement only, not cash back.

I do remote inspection on 100 & 200 series, and their engines. Which searching for not only vehicles, but even more so for engines. I learned what to look for and ask!

The VVT 100 series 4.7L, is more difficult to find than non VVT. I learned the hard-way, to do my homework as if a vehicle purchase. First one I purchase was a bad engine. It's car fax and service history was good, and it was low mileage. But what I failed realize at the time. They can't be exposed the the weather, not even covered with tarp. Unless hood and both fenders on, and hood closed/sealing. I don't even want seller washing, as special care needs taken on VVT more then non. Also a red flag, is if intake manifold "ever" in history, removed. This would be for say starter or S.A.I service, etc. If a yards sells any parts requiring intake manifold removed, I'd not touch it. If VIN number not on RH head, I'll not buy. As no way to track history.

Personally I feel USA made is not as good. Many Tundra & Sequoia (USA made) have rod knock. Made in Japan, I pay up for. A 100 series VVT, I'd pay top dollar, as is less labor to install. But a GX470 or 4runner 4.7 VVT is fine. Point is, get best engine, near same miles or less. In ones local area is best, as can be scope. But that could take waiting a very long time for.

A good used engine will be better, IMHO, that a commercially purchased rebuild. Rebuild's don't use OEM parts, in any I looked at.

Last I looked about 2 years ago. There was not and has never been any JDM 4.7L shipped to the USA. Anyone claiming to have one, ask for pictures of VIN plate on RH head.

If insurance involved. Toyota does sell a short block and heads separably ~$6.5K IIRC. They don't sell crate (long block) engines, last I checked. To this day, I've not seen one, to see where made. As they may be USA made.

If it was my rig, I'd get involved in engine selection. Looking daily!

Good luck.
thank you! will be helping look... so regarding the engine, looks like one of the cylinders after they installed and ran a compression was messed up. I mean ... i just don't get it, it's quite upsetting.
 
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Much more about shops not doing installs right and cruiser parts shipping a bad motor.
Just curious, If the piston is undamaged in cylinder-1, can a new valve guide and a valve bring this engine back to life?
The valve sits at an angle to the piston so the valve can easily bent without damaging the piston:

Timing chains have it's own problems: When it is stretched, you pull the front to replace the chain, which I think could cost 2-3 times of a T-belt job.
 

awesomeissquid

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Just curious, If the piston is undamaged in cylinder-1, can a new valve guide and a valve bring this engine back to life?
Probably would be easier to just swap the head to a known good one if the piston was undamaged. But since it is a VVTI, if the valve is bent, the piston likely made contact.

I do wonder if the valve is actually bent or if they are just assuming based on the compression test. It is possible the valve was just not seating fully due to carbon or deposits which could be fixed.
 
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Timing chains have it's own problems: When it is stretched, you pull the front to replace the chain, which I think could cost 2-3 times of a T-belt job.

Exactly. Timing chain problems happen and they are oppressive especially on V engines. Lots of car manufacturers have been having timing chain problems and they are almost always interference motors. Chains elongate, guides break, chains jump a tooth, timing slowly goes bad over time, etc. I would venture a guess that 90 percent of the people on this forum that do their own non-interference timing belt jobs wouldn't go near a timing chain replacement job on a 4.0L V6.
 
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Exactly. Timing chain problems happen and they are oppressive especially on V engines. Lots of car manufacturers have been having timing chain problems and they are almost always interference motors. Chains elongate, guides break, chains jump a tooth, timing slowly goes bad over time, etc. I would venture a guess that 90 percent of the people on this forum that do their own non-interference timing belt jobs wouldn't go near a timing chain replacement job on a 4.0L V6.
My 1GRFE in my FJ had a timing chain pulley bearing start to go at 60k. I brought it to a high volume Toyo dealership for the work and after fighting Toyota on it and having an FST come out to confirm it was really the timing chain (they just couldn't believe it), they did the work. $6k job + drivetrain warranty extension.

They pulled the motor to do it. The service manager said that in his 20 years at the dealership he couldn't remember a 1GRFE having a timing chain issue like this before 200k+.

So all that to say, I think while the timing belts are probably a part of why 2UZ's last so long (if replaced on time) the timing chain driven Toyo motors are fantastically reliable and I'd take one any day for a vehicle I was going to run up to 200 to 300k.
 
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I actually like t belts over chains, interference engines suck regardless. Getting in there to replace the belt on the 2UZ forces you to inspect almost everything on the front of the engine and your forced to replace a good amount of coolant (not replacing coolant leads to lots of problems in engines).

Don’t be scared of a timing belt, your problems have all stemmed from a shop doing a poor job. Going to sound frank but I’d never take my truck back to these guys even if they’re trying to make it right. You’ve been down a Hundy for weeks now…
 

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