Can a timing belt change make an engine fail? (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Glad the shop pointed out the error and admitted to it. Kudos. Garage Keepers insurance does handle claims for resulting damage. Insurance wouldn't cover the cost of re-doing the timing belt but there would be liability coverage available for resulting damage ie the ruined engine. You also have the right to choose who repairs your vehicle in that scenario. I think it's a positive that the shop has copped to the problem and that may sway you to keep working with them and that's ok if you have a good relationship with the shop, they are reputable, etc. But you do have options when things go sideways.
 
Usually whatever engine seller offered them, is what you get. What warranty are they offering?

They can check compression and oil pressure once running, and give you a report card. If good should last as long, as properly cared for.
If any contaminants (dirt/sand/etc.) falls into cylinders. Compression will change (drop), within 2K to 5K miles. Have redone by 3rd party, at 5K.
Typically, an engine with water entry into cylinders will smoke in 20K to 30K miles, if not run within a few weeks of water entry.

BTW: A 100K miles 06 LX470 engine, is a very rare find. To find one in only about a week, is supper lucky. Post a few pic of engine, making sure one is of right head (passage side) VIN # plate. If was me; I'd run carfax on the VIN #.

IMHO: Any engine close to your mileage, is fair.
 
Yeah used engine is going to be hard to say how many miles. Not that it really matters in 2UZs, frequency of fluid changes are what matters. It would be nice to see what the inside looks like and if it has built up any heavy varnish, or worse sludge.
 
Last edited:
Usually whatever engine seller offered them, is what you get. What warranty are they offering?

They can check compression and oil pressure once running, and give you a report card. If good should last as long, as properly cared for.
If any contaminants (dirt/sand/etc.) falls into cylinders. Compression will change (drop), within 2K to 5K miles. Have redone by 3rd party, at 5K.
Typically, an engine with water entry into cylinders will smoke in 20K to 30K miles, if not run within a few weeks of water entry.

BTW: A 100K miles 06 LX470 engine, is a very rare find. To find one in only about a week, is supper lucky. Post a few pic of engine, making sure one is of right head (passage side) VIN # plate. If was me; I'd run carfax on the VIN #.

IMHO: Any engine close to your mileage, is fair.
good tip, also thanks NE snowman and 97 AZ LC for the input as well. Would this be an opportune time to drain/new fluid in the transmission...or replace driveline fluids + bushings as well ? I plan on asking for some of this as payback for the inconvenience of well...this.
 
Now is the opportune time to do a steering rack if you are so inclined since the access is much easier. Besides that engine and transmission mounts would be the main ones. Replacement exhaust headers if they are ticking. I think everything else is pretty serviceable with the engine in.
 
Now is the opportune time to do a steering rack if you are so inclined since the access is much easier. Besides that engine and transmission mounts would be the main ones. Replacement exhaust headers if they are ticking. I think everything else is pretty serviceable with the engine in.
^ This, maybe a starter too I think that was mentioned. The rack will save you 1k of labor down the road. Headers if they’re cracked already. Been driving a 2UZ 4R for 4 years with the exhaust tick, it’s finally getting worse but it’s probably some old gaskets at this point. She’s a rusty one and I don’t want to throw any of my 100 money at her 🤣.
 
Now is the opportune time to do a steering rack if you are so inclined since the access is much easier. Besides that engine and transmission mounts would be the main ones. Replacement exhaust headers if they are ticking. I think everything else is pretty serviceable with the engine in.
thank you!
 
Now is the opportune time to do a steering rack if you are so inclined since the access is much easier. Besides that engine and transmission mounts would be the main ones. Replacement exhaust headers if they are ticking. I think everything else is pretty serviceable with the engine in.
why the rack i'm curious... i'm not opposed to it but are there any symptoms i'd or already experience?
 
The steering rack is typically suggested if the engine is already out since the access to service it is so much easier. Most I think find that when the vehicle has around 250k miles it will eventually be worn and needing replacing. That said you don’t have to do it now and there are ways to do it with the engine in that involve lifting the engine a couple inches.

The only reasons to replace it in my opinion are if it is leaking fluid, if it has slop that is not associated with the mounting bushings or the TREs, or if you want the piece of mind of having a new steering rack and not having the hassle of replacing it later.
 
anyone know where to find transmission cooler line fittings like this, shop said they can't find them??? maybe they don't want to buy a bigger part?
20171019_195722 (1).jpg
 
anyone know where to find transmission cooler line fittings like this, shop said they can't find them??? maybe they don't want to buy a bigger part?
View attachment 3170761
They can’t find them??? Where’d they go? They should’ve never been removed from the radiator to begin with. There’s no need to remove them to do anything related to the engine.
 
Which shop is this? If you decide you want to move it to more of a Cruiser shop, let me know and I'll give you a recommendation.
 
Looks like one of the ATF cooler nipples was damged. I assumed that why he's looking.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom