Can a stick be my help for bleeding brakes? (1 Viewer)

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Salt ate through a rear hard line. Replaced both the crusty crunchies with all the tricks for rusted fittings. I rented a vacuum hand pump from vatozone and it leaks, but was able to pull the air through the lspv and get fluid through one of the new lines before the vacuum pump stopped holding pressure. Even if I had a tool that works, the rear DS bleeder valve has almost no length past the nut and a hose won't fit. Idk why it's a different length but whatever.

My help for tomorrow flakes out as people often do these days, and I need to drive. Can I jam a stick or pry bar into the seat and push the pedal down? I ask because the pedal in past experiences will go further down when the bleeder is opened and air escapes. I don't want to a) let air leak back in if that happens and the stick falls off or b) not have sufficient downward pressure to get all the air out and waste a bunch of time.

If it's held down maybe 2/3 I'd still have constant pressure similar to an unbroken vacuum pump? Does it need to be to the floor or should some pressure be enough?

I do have cinder blocks but I don't know if they'll be heavy enough to keep the pressure I need.
 
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I bleed mine by myself too. I usually just get a foot or two of tube and but one end on the bleeder and submerge the other end in a jar a quarter of the way full of brake fluid. I’ll just do 10 pumps and then check the master cylinder. Works well for me🤷🏻‍♀️
 
I bleed mine by myself too. I usually just get a foot or two of tube and but one end on the bleeder and submerge the other end in a jar a quarter of the way full of brake fluid. I’ll just do 10 pumps and then check the master cylinder. Works well for me🤷🏻‍♀️
I might try to find a bleeder valve for the one caliper that's long enough to fit a hose on and try this
 
I bleed mine by myself too. I usually just get a foot or two of tube and but one end on the bleeder and submerge the other end in a jar a quarter of the way full of brake fluid. I’ll just do 10 pumps and then check the master cylinder. Works well for me🤷🏻‍♀️
Ditto. Stupid easy and simple.
 
On a previous vehicle, I used a snow scraper (so, a stick) wedged against the front of seat to hold the pedal down after a few pumps, then go out & crack the bleeder, close & repeat. Have always had a helper around so I don’t own anything to do it alone, and it has worked perfectly fine for me when necessary.
 
This


plus something like this


and a connecting hose then you'll have a pressure bleeder that works great.
 
Been gravity bleeding for years without issue. Just keep the master full.
You just leave a valve cracked open, keep reservoir full and close it up when it's dripping steady, then on to the next one? No pumping pedal inbetween?
 
You just leave a valve cracked open, keep reservoir full and close it up when it's dripping steady, then on to the next one? No pumping pedal inbetween?
I have 2 full sets of calipers. I swap calipers at all 4 corners in the spring before each wheeling season or long road trip vacation with my wife. The used calipers get rebuilt when I have time.

HINT: put a coating of grease on the bleeder threads to avoid air getting past.
I always start at the caliper furthest away from the master. Rear passenger side. I use a Snapple bottle or similar with a length of clear tubing and crack the bleeder on that caliper. If you have a bit of fluid in the bottom of the bottle you will see air bubbles. After bleeding all 4 calipers, I step on the pedal a few times. This will seat the pistons to the pads and the pads to the rotors. Start again and open the bleed screw 1/4 turn and manually pump the brake pedal with your hand, making sure not to go beyond the operating throw of the pedal. A piece of 1x2 (ferring strip) works well.

Repeat for each caliper and the LSPV. Remember to frequently check the level in the master reservoir and keep it from getting too low.

After this is done, I go for a quick drive and find a gravel parking lot or dirt path and activate the ABS 5 or 6 times to cycle the old fluid out of the ABS actuator and back into the system. I will bleed the front left again to be sure all the old fluid is out. Brake fluid should be water clear.

I use all OEM 80 Series brake parts and I can lock up 35s on dry pavement.
 
Power bleeder FTW. I made my own using a rubber PVC pipe cap (from home depots plumbing department), a hose clamp, drilled a hole in the middle of the cap and pulled a valve stem into it.

Then I just clamp the whole piece on the booster attach it to my air pump and put 10psi on it. Works better than anything else and it cost me virtually nothing
 
I did a thread on a power bleeder, in my time I have found it to be the best way I even wrote up a thread on it, how to make and use it just search my threads and it is here . I think it is way better than gravity because it pushes all the fluid you want and flushes the system
 
Gravity worked well, but the front screws dripped out of the threads, not the orifice. The pedal isn't spongy but it travels a little further than I'm used to. Might try again after driving around.
 
I've pumped air out of systems after 30 mins of gravity bleeding. So Its great if you don't have any other option, but its not 100% fool proof
 
(1) fernco 1-1/2” rubber pvc cap - $3
(1) replacement tire valve stem - $1

Remove the valve core from the valve stem so you can relieve the pressure when you need to quickly. Drill a hole in the fernco cap and pull the valve stem into it. And voila you have a power blender for next to nothing.

I use an old small 120v tired ass air compressor and hook the chuck right up to the cap. I just click the compressor on tell I get ~ 10 psi then shut it off and leave it connected.

Go to my wheel and bleed away. Add pressure and fluid as needed. IMO it’s so easy every cruiser guy should have this.
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(1) fernco 1-1/2” rubber pvc cap - $3
(1) replacement tire valve stem - $1

Remove the valve core from the valve stem so you can relieve the pressure when you need to quickly. Drill a hole in the fernco cap and pull the valve stem into it. And voila you have a power blender for next to nothing.

I use an old small 120v tired ass air compressor and hook the chuck right up to the cap. I just click the compressor on tell I get ~ 10 psi then shut it off and leave it connected.

Go to my wheel and bleed away. Add pressure and fluid as needed. IMO it’s so easy every cruiser guy should have this.
View attachment 2892984View attachment 2892985View attachment 2892987

Did you see my write up on the garden sprayer pressure bleeder, I made , you can flush the whole system, never have to add fluid just put a quart and bleed/flush away
 
Did you see my write up on the garden sprayer pressure bleeder, I made , you can flush the whole system, never have to add fluid just put a quart and bleed/flush away

Oh you mean this little thread right here: Cheap Power Bleeder

Yea I like it, I actually have a garden sprayer set up to do diff oil. I put a larger pickup hose in it and pulled a valve stem into a hole I cut on the side up top, I don't like the manual pump it's much easier to just use a compressor.

Still... my solution is cheaper, takes up less space, and was made with a couple of things I had laying around :flipoff2:
 
Oh you mean this little thread right here: Cheap Power Bleeder

Yea I like it, I actually have a garden sprayer set up to do diff oil. I put a larger pickup hose in it and pulled a valve stem into a hole I cut on the side up top, I don't like the manual pump it's much easier to just use a compressor.

Still... my solution is cheaper, takes up less space, and was made with a couple of things I had laying around :flipoff2:

But I don't have a small compressor :flipoff2: :rofl:
 

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