Camshaft options for the 2F? Are Cam mods worth it?

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Well the title says it all. I made a prior post regarding my 2f head rebuilt by PO.
I was concerned about the mods made to it. Brief cut and past from the last post below.

I would like to use my old cam as a core and get something that will give me a real change in power/torque.

I checked it out this afternoon they are factory toyota valves and valve seals.
It is definitely a 2f head with air rail pluged up. I didn't get any pics of the head as I was put at ease knowing they where factory valves. My quess is the PO had chevy dual valve springs installed as he planned on heavliy modifying the original engine.

I bought a used 79 with 54K. I'm going to go ahead and put this head on it along with a new water pump, rear main seal and hopefully a set of headers. I have the 78' intake and it's been cooked and cleaned so I with probably use that and do a minor port and polish on the two.
 
F-junker said:
I would like to get something that will give me a real change in power/torque.



Then you are going to want a couple more cylinders buddy.... ;)


You can pour all sorts of time and money into a Toyota gas six, but at the end of the day, that is what you have....and if power and torque is what you are looking for I would start pricing out other powerplant options.



Good luck!


-Steve
 
I take it maybe just drop the thing is stock and forget about?
If no real noticeable gains are poss. with this engine why is everybody trying to modify it?

I'd rather spend my money on something else at the end of the day if headers and a cam aren't going to really do anything.
 
Oh you may get some perfomance increases...but if you are looking for something to really accelerate and pull...you will not be happy with the end result of modifying your six...comparing dollars to dollars...your money will go a lot further and be better spent on a different engine.


Go grab a couple beers, hit the FAQ under engine 2F vs. V8 and read away....


Then come back and ask some more questions.. :)



Good luck!


-Steve
 
You want a real change in power/torque? Well, you can build that six, and you WILL get a real change in power/torque. It'll be a real small change, but it'll be there.If you want your power/torque down in the low RPMs, no problem. I built a hot-rod 2F/late F with the aid of a fine machine shop and 8 blocks in my garage to pick and pull from. Did some of the go-fast mods...2F block, bored fifty, balanced, RV cam, high end pistons and rings, minor porting/polishing, "Bowl Job" (don't laugh) on the combustion chambers in the late F head. You gotta do all the go-fast mods or it won't work right, just doing one or two doesn't cut it, or so I hear...and the cam itself is very important. Didn't do the chevy valves or dual valve springs. Probably shoulda.
But. I like it. Still some work to do on it, still gotta buy the good gas (due to the stupid-high compression) but it sure does run. Lugs down better than ever. Accelleration is quicker, handles higher revs much better. Redline used to be 3300,
now it's 5plus.
It's no V8, it's no 80, it still is slow on long uphill climbs at any altitude (turning 35s with the 4.1:1s).
It's never gonna be anything other than a 6...but that's fine by me.
You could probably build a V8 for the same price. If your up for the swap, :cheers:
Mostly depends, I guess, on what you like and how you like to drive.
 
A cam changes is a requirement if you want to make power. But so is the rest of the package. Increased compression, increased induction and increased exhaust (updated ignition to if you are still running the old vacuum retard points distributor).

It's not all that expensive to do. And it does make a big difference.

Just seat of the pants... You'll rip through mud in second that you used to have to slog through in first. If you drive it gentle you can actually see increased fuel economy.

A buddy of mine has one of my 2Fs in a '40. A few months back, we were running back into town together (I was driving my V8 mini truck.. Carb, intake headers and mild cam). We were were loaded such that the weight was comparable. The gearing and tires were too. When we hit the long upgrades my buddy would floor it and I would take off after him. Both of us in 4th gear with no downshift. I could catch him, no real question. But in no way was the 2F out of it's class andit was not like I was running away from him.


Mark...
 
well I've got most of this done

well I'm halfway there already. I have a DUI (which I posted for sale) If the guy doesn't take it I'll keep it. The head work is already done. I quess what I need is the cam and headers.

What is my best option for the cam? I always see the"RV" cam but generally speaking what I really want to know is what left and duration is the best for low end torque and performance?

Finally alot of hubub about the header thing. I've basically narrowed myself down to Mark's tri-y or the two piece deal ($OR or MAF I can't remember).
 
Racer Brown Cams. Not just for Mopars.. He ground an FJ40 2F camshaft for the old 6 cylinder Toyota engine. A variable lift mech cam. At half the cost of the $$ Man-A-Fre cam. Company: Racer Brown
Contact: Jim Doyle
Phone Number: 410-866-7660
 
racer brown engines have a reputation for serious performance. I really like the idea of a variable left setup NO Valve adjustments after initial set up.
I'll be contacting him this week for a camshaft set up. Thanks a million!!
 
I just received my cam back a couple of weeks ago. 2 of the lobes were pitted and it couldn't be just reground. Sent it to Delta Cams in Tacoma Washington. One day turn around, they rewelded the lobes, and gave it a 1/2 RV grind (for a lack of better terms. Not stock but not full RV either. Cost under a 100. About 1/4 of the price of a new rv cam from MAF. Awesome people to deal with. I have not run it yet though, but great people to talk to. They didn't treat me like a moron who knows nothing about cams.
 
Lifters and what about carb tuning

What about lifters? I've always be schooled to believe one must change lifters when changing a camshaft.

I've also come to find out that our 2F lifters have a tappet face that is not completely flat. I don't recall exactly where I've read this. Is that a factor to be taken into consideration?

Next question the Asian carb. and it's effectiveness with cam mods. It should be rejected I imagine. How does this carb respond to changes in jetting.
Would Mr. Chenoworth be able to do this?

Hydraulic lifters... Great for streetcars in my exper. but a loss of torque is always a factor. what do you all think?
 
F-junker said:
What about lifters? I've always be schooled to believe one must change lifters when changing a camshaft.


Or have them surfaced. You need a "new" lifter surface to mate with a new cam. JMO.................unless you like adjusting valves, over, and over......:D

Ed

And I think Jim will tell you that the Aisin is up to the job.
 
F-junker said:
What about lifters? I've always be schooled to believe one must change lifters when changing a camshaft.

I've also come to find out that our 2F lifters have a tappet face that is not completely flat. I don't recall exactly where I've read this. Is that a factor to be taken into consideration?

Next question the Asian carb. and it's effectiveness with cam mods. It should be rejected I imagine. How does this carb respond to changes in jetting.
Would Mr. Chenoworth be able to do this?

Hydraulic lifters... Great for streetcars in my exper. but a loss of torque is always a factor. what do you all think?


You have to install fresh lifters (new or resurfaced) with a fresh cam.

All solid (non roller) lifters have a crown and are not perfectly flat.

So longas the Asian has the airflow your motor wants it works great. I have and will continue to use these carbs as well as four barrel carbs on 2Fs. Just depends what else is done to it.

Hydraulic lifters??? Why bring those into the discussion. All F/2F/3F engines use solid lifters and can not use hydraulic ones.


Mark...
 

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