Cab Roof Questions (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 5, 2011
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Location
Long Island, NY.
I have moved this thread from the 40-& 55-Series Tech forum I'm trying to find out what I have here.
This roof is all steel. The ribs are covered by cardboard and then foam for the lining. The cab is a FJ45 with a long bed, the roof year is anyone's guess.
I'm trying to figure out if I'm working with a poorly restored stock roof, an aftermarket or something someone just made up, to work?

Is this a one piece roof, aftermarket or something different? Diagrams of cab roofs I've seen aren't one piece and don't show the mounting rail around three sides like mine. Having just used a heat gun on the, glued, windshield guard to separate it from the rest of the roof has me thinking this isn't the way Toyota manufactured this.
The windshield guard has holes in it that could have been from spot welds or for bolts but I don't see where they would have been attached prior to the glue.
Can someone tell me what I'm working with here?

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Year helps also. Looks newer without clips and with front lip
 
Year helps also. Looks newer without clips and with front lip
Unfortunately I didn't know as much about TLC's when I purchased this "fully restored, turn key, 66 fj45", eight years ago.
Turns out it's more of a Frankenstein of cruisers with the only thing that might be from a 66, besides the registration, is the cowl.
 
Angelo,

The exterior looks pretty good from your photo. It looks like a seam sealer or some type of putty may have been laid into the outer drain lip; the drain holes can be re-drilled. The weld in the underside corner is at a stress point that can open and looks like it was repaired. I have trouble understanding your underside setup at the front. Without the three loops attached to the crossbar, I think you have a later non 64-67 roof.

I am not familiar with the 10/67-1975 roofs, but you could have the roof that began in 1975 and ran thru the end of production. That roof has two metal tabs attached to a crossbar fairly close to the front outer edge that allow bolts to the outer top of the windshield frame. Does your windshield frame have 2 threaded holes where the roof may have been bolted before? Where did your truck originate? Do you have any underside photos from before you started disassembling things?

Your best analyst on this is @whitey45 ; he is the resident expert.
 
Angelo,

The exterior looks pretty good from your photo. It looks like a seam sealer or some type of putty may have been laid into the outer drain lip; the drain holes can be re-drilled. The weld in the underside corner is at a stress point that can open and looks like it was repaired. I have trouble understanding your underside setup at the front. Without the three loops attached to the crossbar, I think you have a later non 64-67 roof.

I am not familiar with the 10/67-1975 roofs, but you could have the roof that began in 1975 and ran thru the end of production. That roof has two metal tabs attached to a crossbar fairly close to the front outer edge that allow bolts to the outer top of the windshield frame. Does your windshield frame have 2 threaded holes where the roof may have been bolted before? Where did your truck originate? Do you have any underside photos from before you started disassembling things?

Your best analyst on this is @whitey45 ; he is the resident expert.

Bear, Thank you for your help.
The part I unglued sat forward of the crossbar and has the two holes you speak of. It is molded to the shape of the windshield and there is a foam like weatherstripping that sits between. I have seen aftermarket roofs that have this part attached, possibly spot welded, about an inch forward of the cross bar, mine was glued right up against it. You can get a better look at it in the opening post of this thread.
Light rust, on pics above, seems to be between the mounting rail and the outer roof top. especially in the middle of the front underside and corners. It's not clear if they were separate parts or if the rust entered from the weep holes and started, before they were sealed. I hesitate disturbing the putty on the corners of the outer roof for fear of what might not be there if I were to open it up. This has been worked on before as there are rot holes that were left and painted over along the mounting rail sides and rear corners, on the inside.
I got this in Texas 8 years ago. It was never the turn key, frame up restore I was told it was when I bought it but we live and learn. So 7 years into my doctorate in Toyota FJ's it started bleeding rust from all over. Come to find there is a lot of bondo work that lifted. I'm guessing they didn't have much experience with rust because it was taken care of as piss poorly as the rest of it was put together. Don't get me wrong; once I got all the mechanical issues taken care of it was really quite the joy to drive. The people who put this together did have a lot of good ideas, they just skimped on the effort.
So anyways, there was so much missing from the windshield frame after I had all the bondo sand-blasted off that I had to replace it. Since then I have taken everything forward of the cowl down to metal, cleaned, cured and repainted it. Also replaced the right fender and am in the midst of having the rot holes in the upper cab panel filled. I haven't been able to find a new or clean one to replace it with.
Once the cab panel is repaired and painted I'll need to put the roof back on and hang the doors, which have also been taken down and repainted. So it's getting there. But since it's a Frankenstein I never know what I'm dealing with. And the education continues. ;)

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Snapped a few shots of the roof for a 1978 if that helps.
Thank you, it does help.
Nice and clean.
Mine doesn't have the ridge supports or the flattened tab in the middle of the front lip but the windshield bracket is the same and now the welds on mine make more sense.
Is that factory metal of aftermarket aluminum?
 
Thank you, it does help.
Nice and clean.
Mine doesn't have the ridge supports or the flattened tab in the middle of the front lip but the windshield bracket is the same and now the welds on mine make more sense.
Is that factory metal of aftermarket aluminum?
Factory metal (with some rust repairs and added round stock in the ribs to stiffen it up a little)
 

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