By popular demand: proportioning valve install without brake line flaring

DSRTRDR

I can mangle anything ...
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I recently got several PMs inquiring, so here is the write-up with picture:

Purpose: to install a brake proportioning valve for the rear when converting to disk brakes, adapting Toyota brake fittings to US proportioning valve fittings

Parameters: re-use existing Toyota hard lines and adapt to US standard fittings without the need for cutting the lines and/or re-flaring

Approach: Basically, we went from metric to National Pipe Thread (which is what my Wilwood prop valve came with for 3/16 standard brake line thickness, but you want to connect to Toyota brake line metric) via AN, meaning each side of the prop valve has an adaptor NPT to AN, and the AN fittings adapt to metric. Depending on your space, you might want to think about getting the NPT to AN fittings angled (like 90 degrees; you can see the extra angled connector in the picture); race car shops will have those or can source them for you. So from the Master cylinder [10mm - AN] connects to [AN - NPT] into the prop. valve, the out of the prop. valve [NPT - AN] connects to [AN - 10mm]; anything in [] is an adapter fitting; the blue ones are the AN type. You just need to make sure what thread is on your prop. valve. We put teflon tape on the threads, pipe sealant works as well.

Parts needed: the local race shop I went to sourced one of them from a different supplier, but they were able to do so with these numbers; also available via Summit website (very small pictures):
two of the 1/8 NPT male to -3AN female adapters (EAR 916103 ERL stands for Earl's)
one of male 10mm to male -3AN (EAR 592032 ERL) this goes into the master cylinder
one of 10mm female inverted flare to -3AN male (EAR 989538 Earl's) this connects the prop. valve to the brake line.
Optional: 1) appropriate angled conenctors; 2) bracket to mount the proportioning valve to (we did not see the need, this is pretty solid).

Cost: approximately $8 each.

Potential problems: Depending on space and arrangement, the prop. valve may make removal of the windshield washer fluid reservoir difficult.

Picture:
prop valve 2.jpg
 
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
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Seems like a lot of leverage hanging on a little 10mm brake adapter....



In the FAQ now...
 
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Seems like alot of work to avoid flaring the line. All I have done is take an american brake line fitting and used it on the stock "metric" line- then flare the line.

-Dustin
 
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Are you worried about vibration on that setup? Even though the proportioning valve is not that heavy, seems like there's a potential for problems there.
 

fj40charles

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dustin said:
Seems like alot of work to avoid flaring the line. All I have done is take an american brake line fitting and used it on the stock "metric" line- then flare the line.

-Dustin

You can buy a double flaring tool for like $30.00. IMHO, too much trouble for something that is easily doable. Also, I don't like the idea of having more connections than needed.
 
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fj40charles said:
You can buy a double flaring tool for like $30.00. IMHO, too much trouble for something that is easily doable. Also, I don't like the idea of having more connections than needed.


has anyone found a source for 7' metric hard brake line. Advance Auto, etc. only stock 5' sections and i need 7' to make one long line from the Wilwood proportioning valve to the T-fitting on the passenger side.

Alternatively:
1. I could move the Wilwood to the passenger side and use two medium length lines
2. I could move the T-fitting to the driver's side for the run back to the rear of the truck.

Thanks in advance.

Troy
 
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lcruzrlvr said:
has anyone found a source for 7' metric hard brake line. Advance Auto, etc. only stock 5' sections and i need 7' to make one long line from the Wilwood proportioning valve to the T-fitting on the passenger side.

Alternatively:
1. I could move the Wilwood to the passenger side and use two medium length lines
2. I could move the T-fitting to the driver's side for the run back to the rear of the truck.

I found that Carquest/Beacon sold 25' coils of hard line... though I just used alternative 1.

I avoided alternative 2 due to potential probs w/ exhaust heat.
 

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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
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I also purchase 25' rolls of tubing and fab my own.


Seems to have worked pretty well over the years.


:beer:
 

LC_Hamma

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lcruzrlvr said:
has anyone found a source for 7' metric hard brake line. Advance Auto, etc. only stock 5' sections and i need 7' to make one long line from the Wilwood proportioning valve to the T-fitting on the passenger side.

Alternatively:
1. I could move the Wilwood to the passenger side and use two medium length lines
2. I could move the T-fitting to the driver's side for the run back to the rear of the truck.

Thanks in advance.

Troy

I found an old pic where it shows where I relocated my hard line to flex line coupling, directly over the pumpkin. Is your T fitting located on the housing tab over the diff like mine is? I only used one piece of tubing routed along the framerail. This way the junction is closest to the center of the front axle for max travel.
 
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Has anyone found the need to adjust the Proportioning valve on the fly? I always wondered why those are mounted under the hood when it seem difficult to drive, get out and adjust, drive, get out and adjust, and so on. Why not mount it so the knob is accessable from the cab?
 

Poser

Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
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Because once it is set, it typically does not need to be messed with.


:beer:
 
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Mounted Downey's prop & residual valve to my driver side fender, routed a 20" new line from the MC to the prop valve, cut the end of the new line and used the crush adapters downey sent with the kit and plumbed the out put to the existing Toy line. Working great so far!

Not to hijack but... anyone know where I can find the tabs for mounting the downstream female ends of replacement braided lines? Got a case of the uglies going on on the rear axle...
 
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Not to hijack but... anyone know where I can find the tabs for mounting the downstream female ends of replacement braided lines? Got a case of the uglies going on on the rear axle...


I used a large washer and drilled/filed out the hole to fit around the end fitting just like the stock tabs. Then I welded it on so it sat at a right angle to the housing and used a stock line clip to hold it in place.

Don
 

yzftaco

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My question is what year Master is that in the first post?

That would be a lot easier to bleed than the one that comes out the top... like in the second picture a couple posts up...
 

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