Buying a truck with e-Lockers or not (1 Viewer)

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Thanks Dave. I was able to do one better, got the truck on a lift and exercise all lockers, has a brand new actuator upfront, so everything worked nicely.

But I spoke too soon, when I pulled into parking garage this morning, at crawl speed, I could hear a "clank" or clanking sound every revolution of the wheels. Can't tell where is coming from, and couldn't hear it on reverse. I was driving it back to mechanic when the ABS came on, codes 31, 33 and 43. He got it up on lift and didn't make any clanking sound. So while the sensors are being shipped (tried cleaning them already, no dice), I will work on other stuff.

The clanking sound came back when I was driving into the office, maybe the truck doesn't want to come to work, don't know. Will try to find where it's coming from when I get home. Annoying, otherwise truck runs great, heading to Uwharrie on Saturday.
 
Sensor failure on 80's seems to be quite rare, wear in the bush where the birf goes through is more common allowing the ABS ring to sensor distance to wander, normally shows itself in the early days as the ABS activating as you slow to take a corner.

regards

Dave
 
Clanking sound seems to be Ebrake related, will dive into that later.

The ABS light and codes where present when I purchase the truck. The previous owner thought he might have somehow knocked a sensor when he was working on other things. I tend to believe him, he owns a restaurant near my office, small town.
Toyota specialist did the Birf work and cleared codes hoping they would not come back after Birf (original, no aftermarket), but he did tell me the 43 code was for deceleration sensor, and that part was discontinued by Toyota. Also that code could be triggering the others, and worse case we would need a deceleration sensor from junkyard. I visited the shop a few times, the work was clean and pretty complete.

So later this morning I will get under truck, with my 12 ton jack stands, and reset the sensors, clean, check and grease connections, reset the codes as per FSM.


What bugs me is the rear door lights, switches seem to be fine, tested for continuity when open, all good, but read doors don't turn on light or register in dash when open. I can't get to switch connector to see if they have power though, anyone knows how to access them? I pulled wire out as far as it goes, no connector. Seems to be inside the rear quarter panel. Accessible from inside?
 
X2 with @Dave 2000 . Sensor failure is quite rear on a 80.
In any case, the part number for the deceleration sensor is 89441-30050. After a quick search it appears available. Try contacting either CDan or Beno for price and availability. Both are great guys, yet Beno is in south Atlanta and near to you.
Good luck

Cheers
 
Clanking sound seems to be Ebrake related, will dive into that later.
What bugs me is the rear door lights, switches seem to be fine, tested for continuity when open, all good, but read doors don't turn on light or register in dash when open. I can't get to switch connector to see if they have power though, anyone knows how to access them? I pulled wire out as far as it goes, no connector. Seems to be inside the rear quarter panel. Accessible from inside?


Yes, can get to them behind the QP plastic. If I remember right, I needed a bit of wiggling/tape trimming to free up slack to see the connectors.
 
89441-30050, awesome, I searched for that and found a lot of them out there, used and new. So the sensors throws a fault if it doesn't see the speed change, what I don't know is if the speed change source is the wheel sensors, then triggering the code 43, or the other way around. Anyways, looks like the deceleration sensor can be had fairly cheap, so may get that if cleaning wheel sensors doesn't cure it.

The rear doors will kick my ass, I am a mechanical engineer, and never like the electrical part of the job, "don't trust what I can't see". But will plow through with my trusty multimeter.
 
call one of the parts gurus here on MUD - they will know what you need

bonus: they give a discount, too
 
Have you seen a naked truck? Well, here it is. Decided to pull the carpet, since I have a new kit and the day was getting to me. Removed all carpet and trim, cleaned and scrubbed, now ready for new stuff. Also found the deceleration sensor, it has a different part number too, see the last photo. Found used replacement in EBay for $20, ordered it and now wait for it.

Rear door lights, both rear switches are good, no resistance when open. So I was able to measure the front door switches, and found that they show 12 volts when door is closed, closed to none when open. The rear doors switches do not have any power, not sure why. Since I have all the plastic out, will measure the power at the connector inside body tomorrow.

Not sure if I am going to attack the carpet or call in a pro, would hate to screw that up since it came with the truck when I bought it. Anyone put a new carpet in? Tips?

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Okay, I have finished the carpet install and have some tips for those doing it in the future. This carpet kit came with the truck I bought, so decided to try something I have never done before and it came out good. Truck smells like it was new!

Get a set of the trim plastic tools to help remove the plastic trim. Amazon $9 well spent
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Buy new sharp tools! Really, I had to relearn that after day one, about 4 hours of which 3.5 where due to crappy knife. Lowes utility knife and linoleum blades made the job go 4 times faster. Also get some bad ass shears to cut faster.

Leave all bolts in place but raised so you can cut a X on each bolt head and push carpet through. Using large washers afterwards helps keep carpet in place.
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Keep extra pieces to trim inside storage box and cup holder
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Use non permeable and non petroleum based barrier on rear cargo area to help seal from past oil spills. This is alum foil.
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Buy extra plastic fasteners for trim, they get brittle with age and can snap off easily. The yellow ones from advanced auto are a perfect fit, come in packs of 2.

Lastly, watch the videos on YouTube, unfold the carpet the night before and let it come up to molded shape. Don't be afraid, screwups are easy to fix. Cut the carpet in stages, meaning push it in place, cut some excess, push it back in, cut some more, etc. Use the center console as a guide to ensure you have enough carpet to fold under it, this was my main mistake.

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Thanks Dave. It was a great frustrating and awesomely satisfying job. It was greater when my youngest (15 yr old) got in to go for icecream, and said "it smells nice in here dad". Now, if I can only find a 12V power source for the rear door switches.....
 
My rear power was screwed up but, I removed the centre interior light and found a 'bypass' to the right hand rear door pillar. it seems some had had a little 'fiddle about', then it went along the right hand rear under the carpet. Unsure if someone had the same problem as you and run an extra wire?

regards

Dave
 
Dead battery this morning. I had a feeling it was on its last legs, but with the low temps over night I was not surprised when I tried to start it up. So decided to get the Autozone Duralast Gold, 710 CCA and 890 CA, with 165 Reserve minutes. $125 was hard to beat. I looked at the Optima's, had used them before on other cars were weight minimization is key, but couldn't justify the cost of it.
In and out in 10 mins, Debbie at Indian Trail Autozone (near Charlotte) is awesome.
 

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