Buying a garaged 80 (1 Viewer)

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Hey everyone

I have the opportunity to buy a 1996 80 series with a 1hz engine with 100,000kms on it, a sahara body that was professionally resprayed just before it was garaged, and the driveline has 80,000 kms on it. It’s Bering garaged properly with both tanks filled with diesel and oil been changed.

It has been parked for 10 years in a garage collecting dust.

What should I expect to need to do to the car if I decide to buy it? Talking about fluids, parts, seals. What would be expected to be needing to be replaced for blue slip / just general drivability

Thank you
 
Not very familiar with the diesel engines but anything sitting that long you'll need to drain the fuel tanks, change the oil again and have a slew of replacement gaskets on hand because it is safe to assume some of them or maybe more than some have dry rotted, and if they haven't completely it may not be very long after you start driving it. Maybe also lube the brake calipers and flush the fluid?
 
What gaskets would you be referring to?
Would it be like a head gasket or something because that would be a big job. I would do run fresh fuel through it and change oil and probably do the brakes. I’m mainly asking because I’m on a bit of a budget and don’t want to buy a money pit

Thank you for the quick reply!
 
Basically consider if its rubber, its rotted. Soft brake lines, all coolant lines, possibly the windscreen washer lines, gaskets for doors and windows, tires.

You might get lucky....
 
Was it a climate controlled garage? Were there rodents in this garage?

Lots of variables, it could be a gem or a money pit.
 
Hey everyone

I have the opportunity to buy a 1996 80 series with a 1hz engine with 100,000kms on it, a sahara body that was professionally resprayed just before it was garaged, and the driveline has 80,000 kms on it. It’s Bering garaged properly with both tanks filled with diesel and oil been changed.

It has been parked for 10 years in a garage collecting dust.

What should I expect to need to do to the car if I decide to buy it? Talking about fluids, parts, seals. What would be expected to be needing to be replaced for blue slip / just general drivability

Thank you
The fact that the person filled the tanks with diesel, did an oil change BEFORE parking it, tells me that they understood how a vehicle is supposed to be stored.

The diesel may actually still be good, as it doesn't go bad as fast as gasoline. It may not hurt to drain one or two gallons off the bottom in order to remove any residual moisture from the tanks before starting.

I also recommend turning the engine over by hand first to make sure it turns over and the valves are able to move. Just getting after it with the starter may bend a sticky valve or break a ring because it is forcing it into fast service. You can wiggle it back and forth by hand to help things loosen up first. By hand, I mean a breaker bar on the nut of the harmonic balancer.

Check over the wiring to make sure there is no rodent damage.

Check oil levels in transmission and differentials.

If all fluids were changed just prior to storage,, then you don't have to worry as much about the acids eating the bearings while sitting.

Before you force it into driving service GENTLY move it forward and backward to make sure the brakes are not stuck.
Apply the brake pedal EASY and in short little bits, then release it to see if the calipers release each time. Again, small movements to break free on seals and rings.

After you get it started, drive very slow and easy because oil and grease has settled out of all bearings on the axles and such.
Tip the truck up on the left and up of the right to get gear oil to run from the differential out to the axles in case the axle seals have dried out and already have oil in them instead of just grease. Let it sit for one or two minutes leaning each direction.

Grease the driveshaft U-Joints and slip yokes unless it's obvious they were greased when it was parked.

After things are freed up, install a battery and attempt a start after you read below.

If there is a way to crank the engine and disable the injector pump so you can crank it long enough to build oil pressure, that would be best. The engine bearings will be DRY and the diesels are known to eat the bottom end bearings anyway and this will make it worse.

After you build oil pressure, then attempt a start.
 

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