Tell us more. What were the challenges and how did you overcome them? There's a big savings if people can figure out how to buy just the rod and not the entire assembly.
Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter chukiechz
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Tell us more. What were the challenges and how did you overcome them? There's a big savings if people can figure out how to buy just the rod and not the entire assembly.
Getting it to line up right was a challenge, like working a Japanese puzzle box, but when it fit it fit and you knew it was seated properly. The one I ordered on eBay was polished and nice. I found other Turkish knock offs were not polished after casting and kind of junkie. I found a good you tube video which helped get me started.
These were all the pictures I took. Sorry I can’t talk you through it on the phone.
You have to position the cylinder it twists into its seat. This actually might be the cause of your draining now that I think about it.
Fits Toyota or Lexus M/Tilt Ignition Lock Cylinder Rod Stamped #7850B | eBay
Stamped #7850B. Fits Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod for. M/Tilt 1998-2007 Toyota or 1998-2004 Lexus. Manual Tilt. Lexus LX470 UJ100 1998-2008. Lexus RX300 MCU15 1998-2003. Toyota 1998-2007. Toyota Camry XV40 2006–2011.
www.ebay.com
That’s the one. Great customer service by the way too. I need to order a spare so I have one at 500k!Fits Toyota or Lexus M/Tilt Ignition Lock Cylinder Rod Stamped #7850B | eBay
Stamped #7850B. Fits Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod for. M/Tilt 1998-2007 Toyota or 1998-2004 Lexus. Manual Tilt. Lexus LX470 UJ100 1998-2008. Lexus RX300 MCU15 1998-2003. Toyota 1998-2007. Toyota Camry XV40 2006–2011.www.ebay.com
Joined the club couple of days ago, 2003 LX. Snapped the rod at work. Part is nowhere to be found locally so ordered from Dubai. Locals wanted $360 and got mine for $160 with shipping. Went back the next day and managed to start the car up. Mine fortunately broke high enough where I could turn the broken piece with those Harbor Freight locking tweezers.
I backed out the switch in the back, put the key and the plastic ring together and turned the broken piece. It also broke high enough where the wheel locking mechanism was still being disengaged by the broken piece.
After I got home, spent the next hour fishing that piece out.
Thank you guys for the information and the helpful video. Would not know what to do without it.
I backed out the switch in the back, put the key and the plastic ring together and turned the broken piece. It also broke high enough where the wheel locking mechanism was still being disengaged by the broken piece.
After I got home, spent the next hour fishing that piece out.
Thank you guys for the information and the helpful video. Would not know what to do without it.
Part from Dubai is coming in on in 3 days. In the mean time, I got the screw driver trick to work. Not sure I am comfortable driving it like that though, if that pipe dislodges, the steering wheel would lock up at speed. It's pretty snug, but still.
GRunner
SILVER Star
So any chance to just get that shaft? Looks like part 2061B?
I could not find one available separate from the assembly. Also the new shaft is different and thicker so i would not go by that 2061B number.
They do have a few on Amazon and eBay, from Turkey I think, but I think those are for an earlier model year and I did not want to gamble on those.
Tips this so doesn't happen again:
- When turning IG key on from lock position. You should never force key to turn at all. If feels like stuck (force needed to turn) release pressure by turn steering wheel about 5 degrees. If steering is turn just a little after removing the key from IG switch, it locks. Turning back in only direction it will then turn, takes the pressure off the lock. Try it!
- Different issue than OP fixing. You do not want a lot of weight dangling off the key (key rings). This is especial true in the LX model. The tumbler will wear out prematurely as will key. Then key can also become difficult to turn. Reason here it's tumbler pins aren't lining up well due to wear of key and tumbler pins. Some of the LX tumblers are $1,500 repair bill at Lexus. Part alone retails for over $700. LC is much cheaper but still no need for it.
My 2001 LX with 154k ignition barrel cam broke last week. I went the cheap route and bought the cam off eBay. Fished out the broken piece after a good hour of frustration and installed new cam. I reinstalled ignition and now key won’t go to lock position without a lot of force. I removed the ignition and i can Rotate the cam to and from lock with needle nose pliers, but it takes way too much force. Moving the cam pass the 4:00 mark in either direction doesn't feel right.
Anyone had this issue?
Also, for those who have done the preventative maintenanc, how do you remove unbroken cam? I rotated cam back to 12:00 but can’t seem to pull it out.
Im grateful for everyone’s posts that have helped me get this far!
Anyone had this issue?
Also, for those who have done the preventative maintenanc, how do you remove unbroken cam? I rotated cam back to 12:00 but can’t seem to pull it out.
Im grateful for everyone’s posts that have helped me get this far!
How'd you remove the not broken shaft? any tips you can share. I'm trying to remove mine, but not having any luck.
Shoot, sorry for not seeing this til now—I honestly don’t remember, but I do know I fiddled around with the replacement assembly until I could remove and replace its shaft quite easily, and then removed the existing shaft the same way—hope that’s some help.
Has anyone determined if the power tilt version cam is actually different from the manual versions? Is it just the housing alone that is different? or are the cams different somehow as well?
I just ordered both the manual tilt and power tilt versions for my two rigs ('99 and '98). When they get here I will post up observations....
For anyone needing this later.
Ignition Key. Key wouldn't come out of ACC position when got home tonight. I've had it break completely before. Don't want to force turn it and break get key or the cylinder. . I OCD'd about it a few months ago and took it out to locksmith, he said I was good but once you know it's not smooth you know somethings up.
Update, took the cylinder out, all good. Key will not exit from ACC to off when battery hooked up. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, KEY COMES OUT. I'm now thinking it has to do with alarm/anti theft system. I have one newish key (made from Vin) and the tumblers were checked a few months ago. Any new ideas?
BTW you do not have to get the whole assembly you can just get the broken (cheaply built toyota stem). Hard to find though, if anyone has the part # for others please post.
Ignition Key. Key wouldn't come out of ACC position when got home tonight. I've had it break completely before. Don't want to force turn it and break get key or the cylinder. . I OCD'd about it a few months ago and took it out to locksmith, he said I was good but once you know it's not smooth you know somethings up.
Update, took the cylinder out, all good. Key will not exit from ACC to off when battery hooked up. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, KEY COMES OUT. I'm now thinking it has to do with alarm/anti theft system. I have one newish key (made from Vin) and the tumblers were checked a few months ago. Any new ideas?
BTW you do not have to get the whole assembly you can just get the broken (cheaply built toyota stem). Hard to find though, if anyone has the part # for others please post.
