Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter chukiechz
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
uHu
Bridgeburner
Ouch. Don't shout !
Thanx KRUISINKID !
didn't want to join this club. 240k 98LC. lucky it happened in the driveway. can't wait to hear what local dealer wants to fix this. I am waiting for the rust to get me and this aluminum part does.
UPDATE ON 7853A..... AND B......I looked at 7853A which is broken and compared it picture of 7853B which amazon shipped me........both look identical...and i think are same....my lock smith will put it today....hope fully it works....will update on this....
Has there been any documented consistency in terms of model year or mileage?
Seems like between this and the master cylinder issues there’s a lot of PM to do before trusting a 100-series on more remote trips...
Seems like between this and the master cylinder issues there’s a lot of PM to do before trusting a 100-series on more remote trips...
Dealers and even local mechanic will only perform the full bracket installation and may replace other parts - looks to be at least $1000 in my area. I ordered the part ~$200 and will attempt the curated procedure described in the YT video and other postings.
I have 2005 LC with 140k: is PM to upgrade the rod recommended for that year?
Finally got piece removed with Harbor Freight 12" Locking Pliers. @97 AZ LC mentinoned these and should be brought up again! Pulled out within 5 min.
Also one thing to note, remember to back those screws in before testing. After I put cylinder rod in I wanted to test before putting all the other stuff back on. Couldn't figure out why car wasn't turning over. Once those screws tightened back up, I was good to go.
Good stuff MUD! Youtube vid was a big help too! I'm not too experienced working on cars but this wasn't too bad at all.
Also one thing to note, remember to back those screws in before testing. After I put cylinder rod in I wanted to test before putting all the other stuff back on. Couldn't figure out why car wasn't turning over. Once those screws tightened back up, I was good to go.
Good stuff MUD! Youtube vid was a big help too! I'm not too experienced working on cars but this wasn't too bad at all.
Last edited:
FIrst, Thanks to Kelly Saad up in Flagstaff for loaning me a parking spot while I gathered the part and some handtools to get the job done.
I studied this post and tlcfaq page on this issue and I felt like I had a rough idea what i was doing.
step 1 ( top dash panel and under column plastic had been removed during diagnosis and so had the key tumbler portion and at least the 1st longer piece of the ignition rod that had broken.
step 2 battery had been disconnected because ignition rod had broken in power on position
step 3 (return to flagstaff with ignition bracket assembly purchased at Camelback toyota in phx)
Step 4 ( remove metal cover under steering column and remove ac duct
step 5 find rear sensor (white round thingus) and use a long philips to back the screws out a decent amount
step 6 the pain in the buttocks part.... the steering wheel obstructed my view as I used long forceps (harbor freight) and a screw driver, a headlamp helped a lot but I did have to get out of the rig and gather my wits a couple of times. Finally managed to make the broken piece turn sideways and was really worried. I was able to turn it back and grab it and pull it out using the forceps and screwdriver (screwdriver was used to push steering column lock thingus on right side of cylinder tunnel).
step 7 (uh oh Houston we have a problem): i laid out the broken rod and everything seemed right... until i noticed that the old pieces were a tiny bit shorter than the new piece... the little teat that slides into the white sensor at end of bracket... had broken off in the sensor.... that's not good
step 8 I laid back down on the floor of the rig and backed out the screws to the white sensor thingus and one screw fell out. The harder to get one stayed in. I managed to wiggle the sensor and disconnect most of the plugs. I could visibly see the little teat of the rod still in the slot of the sensor. The plan was to remove the sensor and tap it on the hood or flat surface to see if it could just fall out. I could not get all the sensors undone so I figured maybe I'd just tap on the sensor as I held over my face...
It worked and the little piece of broken rod.. fell to the floor mat and I was back in business.
Step 9
This is important... I had watched the video on youtube a bunch of times and I specifically watched the part about clocking the rod right. I mangaged to set it on the first shot, tightened up the bolts on the white sensor and then connected the battery.
step 10
crossed my fingers and turned the key... everything is good to go... left the dashboard apart because i just wanted to go home.
I studied this post and tlcfaq page on this issue and I felt like I had a rough idea what i was doing.
step 1 ( top dash panel and under column plastic had been removed during diagnosis and so had the key tumbler portion and at least the 1st longer piece of the ignition rod that had broken.
step 2 battery had been disconnected because ignition rod had broken in power on position
step 3 (return to flagstaff with ignition bracket assembly purchased at Camelback toyota in phx)
Step 4 ( remove metal cover under steering column and remove ac duct
step 5 find rear sensor (white round thingus) and use a long philips to back the screws out a decent amount
step 6 the pain in the buttocks part.... the steering wheel obstructed my view as I used long forceps (harbor freight) and a screw driver, a headlamp helped a lot but I did have to get out of the rig and gather my wits a couple of times. Finally managed to make the broken piece turn sideways and was really worried. I was able to turn it back and grab it and pull it out using the forceps and screwdriver (screwdriver was used to push steering column lock thingus on right side of cylinder tunnel).
step 7 (uh oh Houston we have a problem): i laid out the broken rod and everything seemed right... until i noticed that the old pieces were a tiny bit shorter than the new piece... the little teat that slides into the white sensor at end of bracket... had broken off in the sensor.... that's not good
step 8 I laid back down on the floor of the rig and backed out the screws to the white sensor thingus and one screw fell out. The harder to get one stayed in. I managed to wiggle the sensor and disconnect most of the plugs. I could visibly see the little teat of the rod still in the slot of the sensor. The plan was to remove the sensor and tap it on the hood or flat surface to see if it could just fall out. I could not get all the sensors undone so I figured maybe I'd just tap on the sensor as I held over my face...
It worked and the little piece of broken rod.. fell to the floor mat and I was back in business.
Step 9
This is important... I had watched the video on youtube a bunch of times and I specifically watched the part about clocking the rod right. I mangaged to set it on the first shot, tightened up the bolts on the white sensor and then connected the battery.
step 10
crossed my fingers and turned the key... everything is good to go... left the dashboard apart because i just wanted to go home.
Part arrived as well as Harbor Freight forceps. I do not see how it is possible to do this without the 12" forceps - for $5.99 it is a must have.
1998 TLC 240k broken off in ACC/ON, battery dead after a few days.
Using the improved procedure since Post #33 and YT Video...
I did not remove the seat. I put two boxes outside cab and just laid down into footwell.
Picture of my rod as broken
I forgot to take picture of the broken piece's position but the steering lock pin was already pushed out to the right - it was not in the way.
I did not remove the black vent below steering wheel to get to the screws of the white round plastic sensor. I did not find it hard to reach with screw-driver from behind.
I first tried to back off the white round plastic sensor only 1/8th". This was not enough. My broken rod would not rotate counter-clockwise. I could rotate only clockwise 90 degrees (which also released the steering lock pin making it in the way). Versus the YT video, the 12" forceps have rounded tip and they pushed lock ping out of the way while grabbing rod. When I rotated rod back counter clockwise to found position - this also moved the steering lock ping back out. Shrug.
Even 3/16" wasn't enough.
I then carefully backed off the sensor by 1/4" inch. Only then could it rotate broken piece counter-clockwise 90 degrees and came out easily with the forceps.
The steering lock pin was released again while removing the broken piece.
I put the new rod in as described (12 oclock). I do not believe I was able to turn it counter clockwise to seat the slot of the rod end as described. This may have been a mistake. I then turned it clockwise and it felt solid - turned to 3-5 oclock'ish and settled on 4 oclock as prescribed.
I found that tightening the screws was harder than I expected. I believe if you feel you may not have the rod slot seated correctly. At a point near fully tightened the sensor screws I heard a snap sound and a round white tab popped off the back of the sensor - about the size of paper hole punch-out. Ugh.
I think I had goofed and noticed that the brass tab was now at 3 to 3:30. I tested the play of the rod - it was not moveable. I decided to loosen the sensor again and once I had backed it off about 1/8th", with my finger on the rod, I felt/heard a click. Clearly the rod had now seated itself correctly in the sensor. I turned the rod back to 4 o'clock and tightened the sensor screws (which were also easier to tighten).
The rest of the procedure worked fine. Once I had the black/clear ring screwed in and plugged in I jump started and steering turned freely when ON.
I will do preventative fix on 05LC once my back feels better.
Very thankful for the procedure from this community.
Last edited:
Just did this preventatively to our 2004 with 133k on the clock. The shaft I removed looked the same (structurally) as the one I put in, and even had what appeared to be fresh grease on it, so it made me wonder if this had already been done and not noted in the Toyota database . . . good peace of mind anyway.
Some notes in addition to what are in post #246 (thanks, @Blackwater!) for post-O2 models:
-there is no screw holding the security bezel thingmo to the ignition--just remove the electrical connection and pull the assembly toward you.
-In addition to the switches, you will need to disconnect what I believe to be an air quality analyzer thing behind the lower RH dash.
And to supplement the video (thanks, @MaineLX470), yes, you will need to loosen up the white switch at the back even for a PM replacement--I couldn't get the shaft to turn far enough for removal until I'd loosened up that switch (two phillips screws) and pulled it rearward (toward the front bumper) a good bit.
Once I got the original shaft out, I put in the new one (which, thank goodness, had a different color ignition tumbler interface blade, or I'd have lost track of which was which), turned it so the brass tab was at 11:00, tightened up the switch at the back, put the security bezel back on, and fired her up.
Did NOT remove the seat and had no issues--suspect I could've done the job with the HVAC tube still in place and maybe even the steel face plate that's right beneath the dash cover.
Ordered my replacement part from partsouq. Ordered on a Saturday at about 11 p.m. Part arrived Tuesday afternoon. I'm sold.
Some notes in addition to what are in post #246 (thanks, @Blackwater!) for post-O2 models:
-there is no screw holding the security bezel thingmo to the ignition--just remove the electrical connection and pull the assembly toward you.
-In addition to the switches, you will need to disconnect what I believe to be an air quality analyzer thing behind the lower RH dash.
And to supplement the video (thanks, @MaineLX470), yes, you will need to loosen up the white switch at the back even for a PM replacement--I couldn't get the shaft to turn far enough for removal until I'd loosened up that switch (two phillips screws) and pulled it rearward (toward the front bumper) a good bit.
Once I got the original shaft out, I put in the new one (which, thank goodness, had a different color ignition tumbler interface blade, or I'd have lost track of which was which), turned it so the brass tab was at 11:00, tightened up the switch at the back, put the security bezel back on, and fired her up.
Did NOT remove the seat and had no issues--suspect I could've done the job with the HVAC tube still in place and maybe even the steel face plate that's right beneath the dash cover.
Ordered my replacement part from partsouq. Ordered on a Saturday at about 11 p.m. Part arrived Tuesday afternoon. I'm sold.
Just joined the club, 2001 LX.
Anyone have a recommendation in the Santa Barbara area for the fix?
Anyone have a recommendation in the Santa Barbara area for the fix?
You're in the Santa Barbara area, right? It's not that hard.
Thanks, I’m going to call around to a few shops this morning. I’d love to do the project myself, but my time is extremely limited due to work and kids.
Im working on replacing the camrod in my 2000Lc ignition right now. I was able to remove the broken piece by making picks out of two long files. They are chainsaw files and i put them in a vice to bend the ends
then i went to theparts desk at my local toyota dealership to get the part number. Kid looked it up and i ordered it off amazon. Wrong part completely! Damn me for mot checking him. Anybody have the part number for the 2000 LC?
update: im ordering part # 45280-60460
update: im ordering part # 45280-60460
Last edited:
@mdcoa do you happen to have the part number for an 04? How long did it take you to replace? Thanks
4528060610
Got it from partsouq for 180ish shipped. My existing one wasn’t busted, so it only took about two hours start to finish, going nice and slow. Could probably do it in 45 min next time....
Got it from partsouq for 180ish shipped. My existing one wasn’t busted, so it only took about two hours start to finish, going nice and slow. Could probably do it in 45 min next time....
