Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (1 Viewer)

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Working on this repair now, in a dark snowy parking lot at 15°F. Hoping to get it to start with a long screwdriver and drive it home. Had to drive home to read the rest of this thread, now I see my '03 has everything upside-down. I pried the white sensor off looking for the hole in the bottom, broke it. That apparently senses the key is in the lock, and lowers the tilt wheel. Can I bypass that sensor by cutting it off and splicing the wires together? Or can I buy that sensor?

Thanks

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I broke off the very tip of the cursed casting, in the electric part of the switch on the back side. That meant I couldn't reach into the switch with a long rod with a rectangle ground into the end like I planned. I ended up taking the switch off the back of the assembly, it was pretty easy really, I can see and reach the Philips screws pretty easily.

I drove it home like this, with a piece of pipe nipple shoved in the mechanical part of the ignition switch to hold the steering lock out. I needed a screwdriver down the center of the pipe nipple to hold it centered. That gave me an idea...
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This aint over Mr. T, I might just make my own intermediate shaft, and a bushing to hold the steering lock out. I'll see if I have time tomorrow to fab something up. Not too excited about buying the golden butt-plug to get that poor excuse of an automotive part I need. Do the cams on that shaft do anything other than move the steering lock out?
 
Made a new link from 1/2" stainless steel. Here is the small end turned down to 1/4" diameter, 1/2" long. Put it down the hole to see if it would keep the steering lock pawl in the unlock position, and to see how far it would stick into the plastic switch. I used a red marker to mark the part that stuck through.
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Left a little of that round post round, about 0.1", to act as a bearing keeping the shaft centered. Same as the original. Ground the rest of the post into a flat to go into the electrical switch.

Turned the other end down to about 0.35" diameter, then sanded it flat to fit in to the keylock slot. Test fit, seems to work. The flat ends are 90° from each other.

The end that goes into the bottom of the case will be the bearing, rubbing against the soft cast aluminum. There is a short round part before it becomes the flat tab going into the plastic switch. It needs to be smooth there and on the end of the 1/2" part. The lower end of the rod will have the steering lock pawl riding on it, so that needs to be smooth as well. Lube it all up well.
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Lube with white grease, drop it down into the case, then grab it with pliers and fish it into the hole at the bottom while fighting the steering lock pawl. Turn to AUX key position. I couldn't get the tab to go into the key switch when I slid the key switch in, ended up taking the white plastic switch back off and grabbing the end with 4LN Vice Grips. That allowed me to wiggle the shaft around to get the tab into the key switch. Remember the key switch has to be in AUX to go into the case.
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Rough drawing, very rough, and the ends have to be 90° from each other. 4.1" from the wide tab end to the bearing surface at the bottom end, 4.6" overall length. And what is that white connector?? Decided it was not used.

So now I don't have a steering lock, which I like. I also don't have the auto steering wheel retract when shutting down, which I also like. The ignition works like normal otherwise, no rattles, no looseness. Drove home, stopped for gas, nothing unusual. Giving it back to the wife now.
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Nice work Macgyver! I’m impressed you were able to get it to run. I had the same thing happen to me a while back and I was literally in the middle of nowhere (Salina, UT). Total hassle and a long tow.

According to the Lexus service guy, the replacement ignition shaft is made a lot better than the original. Unfortunately, it almost seems up there as PM given the fail rates and how screwed you can end up being if it goes on you as the part has to come from Toyota.

I like the prototype idea too!
 
Not to keep this saga going but just as another data point, this also just happened on my 2003 LX470 with 93,000 miles.

-In attempting to save a few bucks I ordered just the cam shaft that several folks have mentioned on this and other threads on Amazon Bross BSP34. At $32 shipped I figured it was worth the risk. I took my ignition apart - big thanks to #MaineLX470 (post 193), #parnoren (Post 33), & #Topoguide (Post 177) for instructions. Once I got my old piece out using pieces of hangar, the two shafts don't match. I'll be returning this piece and ordered the whole assembly (PN 45280-60610) online at McGeorge Toyota in Richmond for $211 +shipping.
-Picture for reference (I think I uploaded it correctly, this is my first post), the stock (broken) piece has the blade still attached, the Amazon piece is to the right for reference to save anyone else the trouble. Contacted the seller and they are very responsive but they don't carry the correct part. I asked them to stop advertising that it fits these years LC.

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I also don't have the auto steering wheel retract when shutting down, which I also like.
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I love the work around but this part would bother me. Any idea why the retract wouldnt work? I allready had mine break on me but am always trying to talk me jeep friends to come over to the LC side like i did and this would be a #2 mod (after heater Ts)
 
I love the work around but this part would bother me. Any idea why the retract wouldnt work? I allready had mine break on me but am always trying to talk me jeep friends to come over to the LC side like i did and this would be a #2 mod (after heater Ts)
Yes, there is a sensor just at the back (closest to driver) of the housing that senses a cam of the fragile shaft when the key is in the "off" position. That tells the steering column to tilt up and retract. My steering column had been groaning quietly every time for some time, it was going to fail eventually, and then I'd have no adjust. That would suck more than losing the auto-retract, and the groan was annoying/embarrassing. So I'm glad to be rid of that feature. I think it can be programmed out too, or just snip that sensor out.
 
What is the part number for a 1998 toyota land cruiser 100 Hdj100l the part that broke has 7853A label in it while the ones on eBay are 7853b which should i get ?
 
Thus just happened to me today, luckily in my driveway. I guess I'll dig in tomorrow, being Sunday and see if I can get it to run without a part in hand until sometime this week. @scottm have you considered selling these? I don't have a lathe.
 
Got it '''hotwired" for now. I think if you know how to pulled this apart, all you need for a trail fix are the hand tools to get the dash apart, a long enough flathead for the key, and a sleeve big enough to hold open the steering wheel lock, and allow the flathead to pass through.

I'm going to see if I can replicate the stainless shaft @scottm made. I'm also gonna see if I can figure out how to eliminate the transponder deal. I tried jumping the wires that connect to it, it must be sending a specific signal when your key is near. I have an EE buddy, maybe he'll like the challenge.

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For those that broke their ignition, was the steering wheel locked in place or free when you turned the key and the cam broke?

Wondering if this failure is partly due to the relationship between the ignition interlock and locked steering wheel and trying to switch the ignition on with out first trurning the wheel slightly to take the pressure off the ignition interlock?
 
Hard to say, but it probably contributes.
 
178k on a 2000 LX and I'm fighting to get the broken part out. I'm thinking I'm just going to pull the column and drill the anti theft bolts.

Biggest problem I'm having is after being frustrated I pulled the complete white assembly off the back and pushed on the broken part. It is now sitting sideways in the tube and I can't get it out.


I pulled the whole ignition off and was able to fish the broken part out.

Are people buying the whole assembly or just the broken part?
 
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My broken bit is just the end tip... It's stuck down in there, there's nothing to grab. I may try epoxy on the end of a pick, or removing the white ignition switch and pushing it out...bleh
 

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