busted ignition

Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
3,204
Location
Third Coast, USA
I saw pics of your creation- impressive i must say. Mine is a 2000 with a manual tilt steering wheel - would your invention work on mine? If so i’m happy to provide reasonable consideration for one.
I don't know if different 100s had different lock mechanisms...? Perhaps a question for @beno or other gurus.

As far as making more, I'm no machinist, it took me a lot of the night to make that with a lot of test-fitting and sanding to fit. If I made one to my specs it would probably still take some sanding and fussing to make it fit. I'd be better to take mine apart and hand it to machinist to duplicate. Life has gotten in the way lately, I haven't turned a wrench in a while, just paid to have the timing belt, front bearings, ball-joints, sway-bar ends replaced. I hoped my write-up would be enough for someone to make their own, doesn't sound like it was.
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2013
Messages
2,676
Location
Colorado
Sorry to disagree... strongly.
I was a graphite/lock believer until fairly recently. Over the years, I would use an appropriate amount on Bubbles' ignition key to lube the lock mechanism.
Maybe once a year at most. Yet after 15 years the key would occasionally not turn the ignition.
Depending upon who was in the driver's seat and where they happened to be, it could be quite alarming. Like the wrong key was in the ignition. Then, after trying to turn the key twice, thrice... or maybe 20 times, the key would suddenly realize its mistake and turn the ignition, whereupon Bubbles would spring to life.
When the shaft went south, I used the opportunity to take lock mechanism to a familiar locksmith for a professional clean & lube.
First thing after cracking it open, the locksmith said to NEVER USE GRAPHITE in an automobile ignition. That over time, it cakes-up and gums-up the works. He blamed the intermittent "bad key" issue solely on the graphic gumming up the works.
Said it's fine for regular locks, doors, etc. Didn't ask him about automobile door locks. But he was adamant that graphite and ignitions mechanisms are bad juju...
Ideally one could clean the key up with a wire brush and keep going. I wouldn't recommend maintaining an ignition with graphite, but if already having issues.... what is better?
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
246
Location
Phoenix
@DuckLN The ignition shaft has a lobe to retract the steering wheel lock pin. So instead of cutting something off you’ll need to add something to hold the lock pin away from the steering column.

If the large lobe at the bottom was a full circle it would always keep the lock pin retracted. If you’re handy you could make a Delrin piece and add it to the lobe to complete the circle.
I'm having a hard time understanding that. The steering column is to the left of the ignition housing. The locking pin has to move from right to left to engage the steering lock, and then back from left to right to disengage. The key turns counterclockwise (to "off") to engage the steering lock. It seems like it would be a lobe on the cam that engaged the locking pin, rather than a lobe that retracted it. Can you elaborate, or maybe post a little diagram. I'm getting ready to install a cam and I'm interested in disabling the steering lock, hopefully without dropping the steering wheel and removing the ignition housing. Thanks.
 

Ayune

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 12, 2017
Messages
746
Location
Portland, OR
I'm having a hard time understanding that. The steering column is to the left of the ignition housing. The locking pin has to move from right to left to engage the steering lock, and then back from left to right to disengage. The key turns counterclockwise (to "off") to engage the steering lock. It seems like it would be a lobe on the cam that engaged the locking pin, rather than a lobe that retracted it. Can you elaborate, or maybe post a little diagram. I'm getting ready to install a cam and I'm interested in disabling the steering lock, hopefully without dropping the steering wheel and removing the ignition housing. Thanks.
The locking pin that engages the steering column (circled below) is spring-loaded towards the column so if you turn your steering wheel with the key removed, the pin will automatically engage. The cam on the ignition shaft inhibits the pin’s leftward movement when the key is turned clockwise. From what I remember the locking pin does have a funny shape to it that sort of wraps around to the right side of the ignition shaft cavity. That’s where the cam acts on it and moves it to the right.
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Another way to do this is to disassemble the upper steering shaft and modify the recess that the locking pin engages on the shaft itself. I’ve been in there too and it was obvious where the pin engages. Pulling & modifying the steering shaft would be easier than modifying the ignition housing I think. You don’t need to crack open the ignition housing for this.
 
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Ayune

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 12, 2017
Messages
746
Location
Portland, OR
@97 AZ LC if you really want to disable the steering lock pulling the steering column is fairly easy and outlined in this thread: How To: Replace your own Upper Steering Column Shaft

Once you access the upper steering shaft I believe the section circled below is what engages the ignition lock pin. Remove this feature and bye bye steering lock. (The oval recess that the pin engages is just out of view to the top of the shaft... it’s not the thin slit facing the camera.)
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Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
246
Location
Phoenix
The locking pin that engages the steering column (circled below) is spring-loaded towards the column so if you turn your steering wheel with the key removed, the pin will automatically engage. The cam on the ignition shaft inhibits the pin’s leftward movement when the key is turned clockwise. From what I remember the locking pin does have a funny shape to it that sort of wraps around to the right side of the ignition shaft cavity. That’s where the cam acts on it and moves it to the right.
Thanks, very thorough. It's obviously more complicated than I thought. I'll probably just live with the steering lock.
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
Messages
100
Location
Sacramento, CA
Ideally one could clean the key up with a wire brush and keep going. I wouldn't recommend maintaining an ignition with graphite, but if already having issues.... what is better?
Locksmith said any light oil would work. Even WD40 in a pinch is better than graphite on ignition locks.
Was news to me...
 
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