Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter chukiechz
- Start date
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This one is for Toyota Land Cruiser 1998-2002 Lexus LX 470 1998–2002. Do not forget to read reviews before you order.
What about this one? Looks beefier, maybe cast from a later model LC?
Amazon.com: Bross BSP34 Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod For Toyota Land Cruiser 2003-2006 Toyota Avalon XX20 1994-1999: Automotive
And the manufacturers website (out of Turkey)
Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod For Toyota Land Cruiser No:5
Amazon.com: Bross BSP34 Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod For Toyota Land Cruiser 2003-2006 Toyota Avalon XX20 1994-1999: Automotive
And the manufacturers website (out of Turkey)
Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod For Toyota Land Cruiser No:5
not the one that matches up to my 2001 for sure
thanks I read the reviews and did not order think I'm going keyless remote start with a button start and no key
This part may not work. See my post to see the difference between this and the OEM part.
busted ignition
Edit:
Figured it out. Better updated info below...
Figured it out. Better updated info below...
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Wanted to reply once again to this hoping it may help some folks in the future...
On my 2003 LC, everything was opposite of the originally posted (pre 2003) video...
The push button was on top to release the key cylinder mechanism, the white plastic sensor was on bottom vs. the top.
On my outer key cylinder long brass piece it inserts on the bottom vs. the top as earlier models show...
I had a terrible time figuring this out as the only instruction was (pre 2003 models), but on my 2003 LC the brass piece (on the breakable dumb cam shaft piece) must be at 11:00 vs the 5:00 position stated.. If my 2003 model is oriented at 5:00 it locks out, everything seems completely opposite of the pre 2003 models....
Lastly, the dumb illuminated clear piece that has a electrical plug in, that circles where the key is inserted MUST be plugged in, and positioned as it would normally be installed...
My major hang up was I had this piece plugged in, but hanging down by the floor board when testing and it would not turn over...
Once installed around the key cylinder AND plugged in the truck fired right up and bypassed the security feature...
May be only a 2003+ issue, not sure... I didn't see it mentioned and on my LC that saved me a tow to the dealer...
On my 2003 LC, everything was opposite of the originally posted (pre 2003) video...
The push button was on top to release the key cylinder mechanism, the white plastic sensor was on bottom vs. the top.
On my outer key cylinder long brass piece it inserts on the bottom vs. the top as earlier models show...
I had a terrible time figuring this out as the only instruction was (pre 2003 models), but on my 2003 LC the brass piece (on the breakable dumb cam shaft piece) must be at 11:00 vs the 5:00 position stated.. If my 2003 model is oriented at 5:00 it locks out, everything seems completely opposite of the pre 2003 models....
Lastly, the dumb illuminated clear piece that has a electrical plug in, that circles where the key is inserted MUST be plugged in, and positioned as it would normally be installed...
My major hang up was I had this piece plugged in, but hanging down by the floor board when testing and it would not turn over...
Once installed around the key cylinder AND plugged in the truck fired right up and bypassed the security feature...
May be only a 2003+ issue, not sure... I didn't see it mentioned and on my LC that saved me a tow to the dealer...
I had this issue come up, too. 1999 Toyota L/C with 245k miles, manual steering tilt - thanks for the part #s and info to everyone who contributed, previously!! Replaced whole ignition lock housing and rod from Toyota.
Rod had snapped clean off. Couldn't get the broken part out, so after 20 minutes of trying, I drilled out the security bolts after pulling the AC tubing and dropping the column to rest the steering wheel on the seat.
The lower bolt on the housing put up a fight with my EZ out, so I ended up cutting through it with a cutoff wheel. Cut through the aluminum housing side (which is replaced) vs. the steel saddle clamp, which is reused. I didn't buy the one-time-use bolts from Toyota. Used socket head bolts I had in my parts stash given their smaller diameter than a normal cap head bolt and fit within the saddle clamp (room is limited).
About 3 hours total. $254 part from my local dealer. I got it overnight. I think the $100 premium is a bit excessive, but oh well.
Doug
Rod had snapped clean off. Couldn't get the broken part out, so after 20 minutes of trying, I drilled out the security bolts after pulling the AC tubing and dropping the column to rest the steering wheel on the seat.
The lower bolt on the housing put up a fight with my EZ out, so I ended up cutting through it with a cutoff wheel. Cut through the aluminum housing side (which is replaced) vs. the steel saddle clamp, which is reused. I didn't buy the one-time-use bolts from Toyota. Used socket head bolts I had in my parts stash given their smaller diameter than a normal cap head bolt and fit within the saddle clamp (room is limited).
About 3 hours total. $254 part from my local dealer. I got it overnight. I think the $100 premium is a bit excessive, but oh well.
Doug
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So, I'll pose this question again. Can this be done BEFORE the ignition rod breaks and leaves someone stranded? Reading through this thread, it sounds like it *might* be possible, but not for certain. AND, was the part ever upgraded along the way? Is this still an issue with 2004, 2005 +++ MY 100 series?
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There shouldn't be any reason that you can't be proactive and replace the ignition before it breaks. As for years, not sure. It may be listed out somewhere in this thread.
ranma21
Supporting Vendor
Yes of course it can be done as one of the preventive maintenance item before it breaks and it should be done as PM to prevent you from stranded since this is a well known issue with 100. I have sold quite a bit of this cylinder bracket to mud member who do it as PM. This issue applies to all 100 series, it is just a matter of time before it snaps. Hope that answer your questions.
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
I'll toss my experience in here too for future searchers. For months I couldn't turn my key without a lot of jiggling (keep your comments to yourself :/) so I finally removed the ignition cylinder guys and just pulled out the broken tumbler/wafer. Reinstalled and works perfectly. Less secure? Maybe. Free? Certainly. If mine had actually broken like the above post, this would be a much more difficult fix but my issue was just a broken wafer.
This just happened to my 99 LX 470 with 100k km's on it. My wife called me at work to say the truck won't start, the key just spins without resistance. She was stranded with our 8 month old. Thanks to everyone who posted up on this forum, I was able to quickly diagnose the problem, call a tow truck ($240 to get it home, ouch), and order the correct part from the stealership ($480 Canadian).
The part came within a day and I spent the good part of this morning monkeying around trying to remove the broken piece. Fortunately since the whole upper assembly must be ordered (not just the cam shaft) you are able to see how it all fits together and in what position/orientation it has to be in, in order to remove the broken piece below the lock tab.
There is no way that I would have had the confidence to do this fairly straight forward fix without the help and good guidance from the excellent members here on mud. So a huge thank you to all of you that took the time to document and share your findings, tips, and tricks.
A long pair of needle nose pliers were indispensable. A piece of metal coat hanger with a small 90 degree bend on the end was also very useful for fishing the broken piece out.
Some where along the way there was mention to use tape to hold the screws onto the screwdriver if you had to remove them from the very difficult to reach white plastic electrical switch on the end (which I had to do since the very end tab that fits into the slot had broken off inside as well) made the job of putting the screws back in very easy. Kudos for all of the insight.
The part came within a day and I spent the good part of this morning monkeying around trying to remove the broken piece. Fortunately since the whole upper assembly must be ordered (not just the cam shaft) you are able to see how it all fits together and in what position/orientation it has to be in, in order to remove the broken piece below the lock tab.
There is no way that I would have had the confidence to do this fairly straight forward fix without the help and good guidance from the excellent members here on mud. So a huge thank you to all of you that took the time to document and share your findings, tips, and tricks.
A long pair of needle nose pliers were indispensable. A piece of metal coat hanger with a small 90 degree bend on the end was also very useful for fishing the broken piece out.
Some where along the way there was mention to use tape to hold the screws onto the screwdriver if you had to remove them from the very difficult to reach white plastic electrical switch on the end (which I had to do since the very end tab that fits into the slot had broken off inside as well) made the job of putting the screws back in very easy. Kudos for all of the insight.
I can't speak to when the part was actually upgraded but the piece I received from Mr. Toyota contained a beefier version that had definitely been upgraded from the original part I removed from my 99 LX 470 with power tilt.
Yes this can be done before the ignition rod breaks. I installed and removed my upgraded part several times before I had gotten it in the correct position. In order to turn the cam into the proper position for removal, you must loosen off the two screws holding the white ignition switch at the bottom of the ignition collar. The video posted earlier in this thread shows exactly what piece I am referring to. In my case I had to remove the whole assembly to remove a broken tab. It was actually fairly straight forward putting it back together using electrical tape to hold the screws onto the screwdriver during reassembly.
I have an 07 LX with 150k on the clock. I've read through all 13 pages of this issue hoping to find an answer to this question:
Do we know if later models (03-07) had the "beefier" rod that everyone who breaks their's is upgrading to?
If my 07' already has the beefy rod as OEM than I'm going to not worry so much when I take my family out into remote parts of the U.S. Thanks for any input ....
Do we know if later models (03-07) had the "beefier" rod that everyone who breaks their's is upgrading to?
If my 07' already has the beefy rod as OEM than I'm going to not worry so much when I take my family out into remote parts of the U.S. Thanks for any input ....
Just completed this, mostly. @hoser or @beno could I trouble one of you guys for a part number of the black / clear ring that is pictured in @Muddy Bean's picture above?
My cam snapped, and disabled the car. With the video on this thread, it was pretty straight forward.
It would have been way easier as preventative. No warning and you're pretty f-d if it breaks out in the woods.
On reassembly I managed to mangle the connection on the illuminated ring around the key, hence the need for a part #.
