Bushings? (1 Viewer)

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Sep 15, 2019
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Location
Houston, TX
Going to expose my huge ignoring of car mechanics here... Summary: Never did an oil change until I bought my LX. Since then, I've done a lot of basic things with tons of help from this golden forum. Oil change, driveshaft lubrication, brakes (calipers, pads, fluid), body work (repainting parts, tough up, wheels, PDR), outer and inner TREs, rear springs, AHC lift, serp belt, some pulleys, and PS pump. I know, none of that is very complicated... But it's a huge step for me!

One thing I haven't done is replacing bushings. I've seen some threads on it, but it seems a bit overwhelming with all the different bushings. I'm assuming that there are not that many and that it isn't that complicated. In that light, I am hoping some generous mud member can give me a quick summary of the typical bushings that probably need replacing (2002, 220k miles).

It is a Texas truck, so the undercarriage is in relatively good shape. I've noticed that the sway bar bushings (I think?) look sort of crackled, but I haven't seen anything else that looks obviously bad. My hope is that I can replace all typical bad acting bushing for something like $300, and just do it all at once. Is that realistic? Looking for a list of bushing that I should replace.

Thanks for any advice in advance. I can search for specific DIY threads once I know which bushings I need to replace. Just looking for a list from this thread.
 

Instead of 48815-60140 for the rear stabilizer bar as pointed out in that thread's part list, you will want 48815-26250 for your AHC vehicle. Everything else should be the same. I got all the parts from Partsouq for $150.

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I am in the same boat here: AHC 2002 truck but looking to some sort of description of the work involved (step by step DIY guides with pictures are the best for me).

Thank you for for the parts list!
 
Bushings? There are about 100 of them on your 100. Some insanely easy to replace, to some that aren't possible without airtools.

For starters: Front and rear sway bar - 10 bushings
Differential mount - approx 8. You might just want to buy the whole assembly instead as its a pita even with a press
Engine mount - 2
Trans mount - 1
Upper lower control arms front - 8
Rear suspension bushings - 10
Shock bushings - 2 for each shock
Steering rack

You'll get the hang of it. 220k of texas sun is actually harder on bushings than one in the salty midwest due to sun, heat and uv.
 
Bushings? There are about 100 of them on your 100. Some insanely easy to replace, to some that aren't possible without airtools.

For starters: Front and rear sway bar - 10 bushings
Differential mount - approx 8. You might just want to buy the whole assembly instead as its a pita even with a press
Engine mount - 2
Trans mount - 1
Upper lower control arms front - 8
Rear suspension bushings - 10
Shock bushings - 2 for each shock
Steering rack

You'll get the hang of it. 220k of texas sun is actually harder on bushings than one in the salty midwest due to sun, heat and uv.
It makes me even more to want a complete guide on this as there is one on AHC suspension which very detailed and empowered me to change the liquid - never thought I would do something like this without that guide
 
Bushings? There are about 100 of them on your 100. Some insanely easy to replace, to some that aren't possible without airtools.

For starters: Front and rear sway bar - 10 bushings
Differential mount - approx 8. You might just want to buy the whole assembly instead as its a pita even with a press
Engine mount - 2
Trans mount - 1
Upper lower control arms front - 8
Rear suspension bushings - 10
Shock bushings - 2 for each shock
Steering rack

You'll get the hang of it. 220k of texas sun is actually harder on bushings than one in the salty midwest due to sun, heat and uv.
Eventually I did get the hang of it. Rebuilt the front end and replaced all the bushings with OEM. Never doing that again! What a brutal project (I didn't have the best tools for it).

For those still wondering, bushing are little bastards that are a pain to replace but make a big difference in ride quality.
 
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Eventually I did get the hang of it. Rebuilt the front end and replaced all the bushings with OEM. Never doing that again! What a brutal project (I didn't have the best tools for it).

For those still wondering, bushing are little bastards that are a pain to replace but make a big difference in ride quality.
did you document your work? From what is written above, I understand that I must do it, but it seems that I need to prepare better than I thought.
 
did you document your work? From what is written above, I understand that I must do it, but it seems that I need to prepare better than I thought.
Partially documented. I'll dig up the threads i was using sometime soon and post them here for reference. Lots of info on this forum about it, but you need to dig a little.
 
did you document your work? From what is written above, I understand that I must do it, but it seems that I need to prepare better than I thought.
Okay, sorry for the delay. Here is my experience with bushings.

There are quite a few bushings. The primary bad actors seem to be the following (in no particular order):
  • Upper control arm bushings (2 per UCA)
  • Lower control arm bushings (2 per LCA. One is actually part of the frame - the dreaded Bushing No. 2)
  • Sway bar link bushings/cushions, front and rear. Very easy to replace. No need for pressing, hammering, chiseling, burning, etc. Very easy.
  • Sway bar bushings. 2 in front and 2 in back. Also very easy to replace. Probably the easiest.
  • Shock bushings and cushions. FYI my vehicle has AHC so YMMV. I replaced the front shock bushings and cushions. The bushings are on the bottom of the shock where it connects to the LCA. They were a pain to press out, but in the end the press won (H-frame 12 ton press. Ball joint kit from auto store didn't work). The cushions were not too hard to replace. The hardest part was fitting a socket over the top nut. Good time to flush AHC fluid. I didn't replace the rear shock bushings, but I did read a lot about it. Basically, the bottom bushing is very similar to the front but the top is a nightmare and most people end up cutting a hole in the cargo area (yes, the actual body...) to get on top of the top nut.
  • Steering rack bushings. I didn't replace these since mine were in good shape. Doesn't seem too hard.
  • Front differential bushings. There are 3 bushings in this set. I didn't replace them because mine seemed fine and I didn't want to take on too much at once. Very happy with my decision.... I hate bushings so much after this job.

I'm sure there are other bushings but the ones above are the primary ones that people service and the only ones that I know anything about.

I found that the FSM has enough info to do the job, but the comments on the threads I posted helped a lot too. Here is how it went for me:
  • I do not have an air compressor or many of the other ideal tools needed to do this work "easily". I tried renting almost every tool from the autoparts store and some worked but most didn't. After days of struggling I decided to go with the sawzall/grinder-drill-sawzall-press method. The other method I considered was torching the bushings but I didn't want to burn the bushings if I didn't have to. The environment or whatever. Plus I don't have a torch... Hindsight I think an air hammer would be best for this.
  • Sawzall/grinder-drill-sawzall-press method: Use an angle grinder or sawzall to cut off any caps. This really only applies to the UCA bushings since they have a metal cap that would inhibit the drill method. Next, use a twist drill bit to drill out the rubber in the bushing. This takes a long time, especially if you have a s***ty drill... I broke ~4 drill bits in the process (nice dewalt ones too...). Once you've drilled out all the rubber and the inner metal sleeve comes out, get a sawzall and cut a slit in the outer metal sleeve. Then use a ball joint press (or chisel and hammer) to get the sleeve out. If a slit cut was completely through the sleeve, the sleeve should come out easily. If it's not coming out easily then make sure you cut all the way through. Be careful not to overcut - it's easy to cut into the control arm itself! Once the outer sleeve is free you can easily press the new bushing in with a rental ball joint press from the auto store (I froze my bushings to make it even easier).

Hope this helps! In all honesty, I don't think replacing my bushings did very much. I think most of the play was in the ball joints... If I were you I'd start with the ball joints and replace the bushings one by one (start with sway bar and links) so you're not doing more than you need to. It's a total B of a job.
 
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Eventually I did get the hang of it. Rebuilt the front end and replaced all the bushings with OEM. Never doing that again! What a brutal project (I didn't have the best tools for it).

For those still wondering, bushing are little bastards that are a pain to replace but make a big difference in ride quality.

^^^^^

Yep,

In the process of doing that now. Just about ready to start putting it all back together. Got one more '#2 LCA bushing to remove from the frame.

frt parts ready1.jpg
 
@Beto Cruiser your order of attack is opposite my typical approach, I think.

Did you do any of the rear control arms?

The front diff bushings can be pretty painless if you just do the front driver's arm, and two pucks. The front passenger side is easy with an air chisel and some courage, but more difficult without.

Bushings are tough because rarely does one do much. Doing them all should be significant, though.
 
@Beto Cruiser

The front diff bushings can be pretty painless if you just do the front driver's arm, and two pucks. The front passenger side is easy with an air chisel and some courage, but more difficult without.

Front diff bushings were a piece of cake for me.

Used an 1-5/8" holesaw to remove the core, then used an air hammer with a single bevel edge to hammer in the 'lip'. Once the outer metal shell of the bushing is distorted....it comes out easily. Had no trouble installing a new bushing with a ball joint C-Clamp tool.

frt diff bush1.jpg
frt diff bush2.jpg
frt diff bush3.jpg
frt diff bush4.jpg
frt diff bush5.jpg
 
@suprarx7nut my list wasn't meant to be in order of what to try first. I was just writing them out as I recalled them.
Edit: I haven't done the rear control arms yet, but when I do I'm buying the entire arms (didn't look like it was very easy to get individual bushings anyways).
Also, if you have a recommended order please post it! I'm sure people would benefit (like me before I began). If I were to do it again, I'd do all the bushings and cushions on the sway bars, sway bar links, and shocks and all of the ball joints. Then the diff bushings. Then the UCAs and then the LCAs.

@flintknapper thanks for the details on the diff bushings. Gives me hope. But keep in mind that it may have been a whole lot worse if you didn't have the air hammer. That was one of the points I was trying to make - if you don't have the right tools then they can be a serious pain. I saw videos of people doing the control arm bushings with an air hammer and a vise and it looked so much easier.
 
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BC wrote:
@flintknapper thanks for the details on the diff bushings. Gives me hope. But keep in mind that it may have been a whole lot worse if you didn't have the air hammer.


^^^^


No doubt. Of course that is the impetus for doing it an easier way. ;)
 
That would be great!

I hope we can at least start from something (sway bar bushings lets say) and then build it from there - maybe someone else will contribute too, who knows. Then will ask a moderator to stick it or add it to the DYI thread on the start page?
Front diff bushings were a piece of cake for me.

Used an 1-5/8" holesaw to remove the core, then used an air hammer with a single bevel edge to hammer in the 'lip'. Once the outer metal shell of the bushing is distorted....it comes out easily. Had no trouble installing a new bushing with a ball joint C-Clamp tool.

View attachment 2454044View attachment 2454045View attachment 2454046View attachment 2454047View attachment 2454048

thank you a lot for sharing - this is definitely outside of my (and I guess many others here) comfort zone :D

These type of DYIs guides are priceless IMHO as they will motivate us to give it a go - something I thought impossible to be done at home.

Of course, this being said, as much details are needed here, including tools used (I mean with links) and I am speaking about me here - I have no idea from which side of the car to approach a job like this.


But I want to!!! :D
 
I'm working through the list of bushings to refresh my truck. So far I've done the swaybar bushings, end links, engine mounts, and steering rack bushings. I will say the engine mounts took most all of the vibration out of the truck when sitting at a stop light . Made if feel much more refined. However, the steering rack bushings blew my mind! I knew they needed to be replaced, but to go from two handing a boat down windy roads to easily nudging the wheel with one hand around a corner was a revelation! Anyone on the fence about tackling this job needs to go ahead an do it. It made a HUGE improvement in the drivability of my truck.

Next up is the front diff bushings, then rear trailing/control arms, and finally shocks.

edit.. I have now completed the front diff bushings. They were actually much easier than I expected. Easier than the steering rack bushes for sure. The front diff bushings are certainly worth the effort. If yours have never been changed, you will appreciate the difference. Btw, I do not have an air chisel. Just a small chisel with a flat side, and a big ass one with a 3 lb hammer.

edit 2.. I completed the rear control arms and front shocks. The trucks is silent over bumps these days, but I still have the rear shock bushings to tackle at some point. Only other bushings untouched are the body mounts. Totally worth the effort.!
 
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