Burning oil after HG job... (1 Viewer)

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So, I did my HG @210k, sometime in June 2020.
No failure on the HG, while I had the top end off, I thought to myself, let me do the HG. I had nothing to do during pandemic I guess.

She had no issues before this job.

First mistake, I messed with a HG that is not broken. I used OEM kit and head bolts.
So, second mistake was, I didn't take it to machine shop. I just cleaned it up and being a rookie, and first time doing a major job on the 80, after 4 weekends, I've manage to put it back together, filled the oil to specs.

She fired up the first time, to my thoughts there was no issue. After a week of driving, about 300 miles, oil light came on. Come to find out she was thirsty. I had to add 2.5 quarts to get the dip stick to the "F" line.
Since then I have been driving it. She takes about a quart every 250 ish miles... prolonged RPM driving only... City driving she's fine, no oil consumption/burning. I've pulled the plugs almost every other quart refill. They seem to have a clean burn, no oil sipping through, no misfire, I have a CEL but it's for EGR... BUT, she has strong oil burning smell from the pipe and initially I had black/oil residue from the pipe. That's most likely my oil consumption right there. I'm thinking oil going through the valve seals?

I've taken her to Rubicon last year and came back. Been driving her here and there and just keep adding oil. Any thoughts on my stupidity?

Now that I have time on hands again, I want to re do it. Errr, do it right this time. Obviously, take the head to the machine shop when pulled.

Thanks for reading... Now fire away...
 
When you had the head off....you didn't replace the valve guide seals right?

If not....I can tell you with every confidence that is where a LOT of your oil is going.

Check your PCV valve too and make sure it isn't clogged or restricted.


Edit: ^^^^^ Beat me to it.


VS Seals2.jpg

VS Seals1.jpg
 
You smog it recently?
Smog was done after a month from the HG job and passed. And right after that CEL went on for EGR.
 
When you had the head off....you didn't replace the valve guide seals right?

If not....I can tell you with every confidence that is where a LOT of your oil is going.

Check your PCV valve too and make sure it isn't clogged or restricted.


Edit: ^^^^^ Beat me to it.


View attachment 2604432
View attachment 2604433
Valve guides seals were replaced. I have not checked the PCV since. I will make time and that will be the next one to check.
 
Last edited:
Valve guides were replaced. Haven't checked PCV

Valve guides were replaced. I have not checked the PCV since. I will make time and that will be the next one to check.


Seals..........?
 
Valve guides were replaced. Haven't checked PCV

Valve guides were replaced. I have not checked the PCV since. I will make time and that will be the next one to check.
If the valve guides were replaced, did they grind the valves and replace (or install) the valve guide seals?
 
my guess is valve steam seal and you mention no machine shop. they normally grind the vavle to seat it right or what about the did you put the buckets back to the original place?
 
If the valve guides were replaced, did they grind the valves and replace (or install) the valve guide seals?
Sorry for the confusion, valve guide seals were replaced.
 
No trouble. If OEM seal were installed then that should attenuate leakage there. Do you have any white smoke from the tailpipe upon start up after the engine has sat overnight or longer? I ask because that is a symptom of oil leaking past valve guide seals. The seals simply 'regulate' how much oil gets to the valve stems and guides. They are 'wipers' if you will.

Any chance you have significant other leaks in the engine (external)? I.E. Valve Cover, Dizzy O-Ring, Oil Pump Cover, Oil Cooler, Upper pan Arch, Front Main Seal (all of these things in concert)?
 
Was the oil level checked after the head gasket job, ie: run engine or drive 20 minutes till fully warmed up, shut off engine, check oil level, before you drove 300 miles?

When the oil level light came on, how long did you continue to drive the vehicle
before adding oil?

Have you checked the oil level since adding 2-1/2 quarts (with the same variables as all the other oil checks)?
 
No trouble. If OEM seal were installed then that should attenuate leakage there. Do you have any white smoke from the tailpipe upon start up after the engine has sat overnight or longer? I ask because that is a symptom of oil leaking past valve guide seals. The seals simply 'regulate' how much oil gets to the valve stems and guides. They are 'wipers' if you will.

Any chance you have significant other leaks in the engine (external)? I.E. Valve Cover, Dizzy O-Ring, Oil Pump Cover, Oil Cooler, Upper pan Arch, Front Main Seal (all of these things in concert)?
I do have pretty prevalent white smoke for about 2-3 minutes from a cold morning start and after that it neutralizes to almost nothing after it has warmed up. I honestly can't tell if that's from the condensation having it sat overnight or something else. Just like you said, it could be a symptom of oil seeping through the valve seals.

After looking before the sun went down earlier, I do now see oil seepage between the valve cover and the head, towards the firewall, passenger side. I have to look closely tomorrow when it's bright out. I'm not quite sure if that from the valve cover or somewhere else. Dizzy is clean. I have to look thoroughly tomorrow,
 
I do have pretty prevalent white smoke for about 2-3 minutes from a cold morning start and after that it neutralizes to almost nothing after it has warmed up. I honestly can't tell if that's from the condensation having it sat overnight or something else. Just like you said, it could be a symptom of oil seeping through the valve seals.

Right, could be a combination of both. Especially on a cool/cold morning you are going to see the 'vapor' created by the exhaust and it would be hard to distinguish it from oil burning. In both cases it will cease with a little engine run time.
 
Was the oil level checked after the head gasket job, ie: run engine or drive 20 minutes till fully warmed up, shut off engine, check oil level, before you drove 300 miles?

When the oil level light came on, how long did you continue to drive the vehicle
before adding oil?

Have you checked the oil level since adding 2-1/2 quarts (with the same variables as all the other oil checks)?
Drove it for about approximately 10miles side street. Oil level was good on the F.
After the light came on, I drove her for a good 25mins till I got home and topped her off.

Yes, I have religiously checked the oil level before and after a prolonged drive and made sure the oil level is good.

I've been since the end of summer. just never got around it and now i have spare time to tackle an HG job again and do it right this time.
Just trying to gather thoughts from the more experienced folks on here.

It's a lesson learned for sure...
 
Drove it for about approximately 10miles side street. Oil level was good on the F.
After the light came on, I drove her for a good 25mins till I got home and topped her off.

Should be fine. These things hold darn near 9 qts (with a large filter). You'd have to get REALLY low and be at an extreme angle to oil starve one. Toyota made sure of that.
 
Reason I asked those questions; the low oil level light goes on when the pan is 1 to 1-1/2 quarts low IME. So, if you added 2-1/2 quarts soon after the light
went on you either had a malfunctioning oil level sensor/connection/stuck float (so the oil level light came on way late) or if the sensor was correct you could've overfilled the crankcase.
 
Smog was done after a month from the HG job and passed. And right after that CEL went on for EGR.
Do you have the smog readout to see if the HC’s were high? Did you have the head done at Clark’s?
 
@pilotuku Good to see you are still around... was the PCV valve installed correctly? Does it work as it should so as to not allow oil to be continuously drawn through?
 

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