Bumper design (1 Viewer)

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Spook50

Skål
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Feb 16, 2005
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Location
Spokane, WA
Where's a good place I can look for info on bumper designing? I want to make my own front and rear bumpers, but don't know a whole lot about designing what exactly I want. A buddy of mine is going to help with the fabrication, so that's covered. I figured some AutoCAD-like program would be good for figuring out measurements and what not, but I'm still needing to learn some of the finer points of deisnging the ringht bumpers for what I want.

Thoughts?
 
JK Customs Prototype FJ62 Winch Bumper(thread on the 60 site)

i cant figure this out..
this is a nice set up spook
check it out in the 60 forum
 
I like the design of the bumper itself, but not the top bars. If I could do up something a little more ARB-ish with the top bars, that'd be perfect.
 
My perfect bumper would have an ARB like winch main beam along the bottom with a single smitty-built type grill hoop along the top. Light tabs.

Simple, strong, effective.
 
Spook50 said:
Where's a good place I can look for info on bumper designing? I want to make my own front and rear bumpers, but don't know a whole lot about designing what exactly I want. A buddy of mine is going to help with the fabrication, so that's covered. I figured some AutoCAD-like program would be good for figuring out measurements and what not, but I'm still needing to learn some of the finer points of deisnging the ringht bumpers for what I want.

Thoughts?

A couple (or so....;))....

1) identify your intended end use first, ex. heavy winching, bull bar, or just a simple robust bumper, fully functional or more appearance oriented, etc...think about what features you would like them to have, i.e. light tabs, winch trays, recovery points, towing capability, air chucks, liscense plate accomodations (if you need to run a front plate in your state), recessed or integrated fog/driving lights, backup lights, etc...,etc...

2) use existing bumpers/manufacturers as a reference point for departure. study how they designed the mounting points and how they reinforced critical strength areas (gussets, etc...). also pay attention to material thicknesses and consider this when comparing it to your intended use, i.e. winch bumper vs. more robust version of factory setup. the thickness will compound the overall weight of the finished product significantly which may impact your suspension setup as well. these real world examples are also great for figuring out basic dimensions or for use as a template to knock off -- copying is great especially if you can modify it and make improvements along the way to make it "your own"

3) consider approach/departure angles and factor that in if applicable

4) consider attachment points to frame and whether it makes more sense to mount up to the existing bracketry or if you will need to remove those and modify your frame rails to fit. if you have any intention of ever returning your rig back to a stock condition, this becomes an important consideration

5) drainage considerations/ease of cleaning out the crap & crud from the finished product so it doesn't rust prematurely and destroy all of your good work

6) wiring tabs or thought as to how your new bumpers might incorporate a way to run wiring to any accessory you might mount up to keep it neat & tidy and secure it from abrasion and vibration

7) use a digital and shoot an image of the front and back of your rig to use as an underlay to place beneath some tracing paper for sketching out your ideas

8) autoCAD is great if you have access to it but it's not necessary. get your measurements down and then mock up the bumper(s) out of wood, using the same material thicknesses as you intend to use on the final product. you'll learn immediately what is and isn't working in your design and it's simple to change shapes of pieces, etc... and test fit again. once you get the sketch model to where you want it, you can use the pieces as a template to cut your final steel. you'll know exactly how much steel you will need for the final and you'll have templates to make another bumper should your buddies and fellow ih8mudders start making requests ;p

9) or disregard all of the above and simply "wing it" on the fly, measuring, cutting, fitting, and welding as you go

I'm a product designer by trade and hope the above methodology and process is of help. Making stuff is way :cool:

By the way, "Durka, durka, durka jihad!! AMERICA F:censor: YA!!" Give 'em hell and keep the sand out of the works.

-dogboy- '87 FJ60
 
AutoCad is OK, but Pro D is so much better. It is easier to use and has more potential for design. I am probably going to design my own bumpers for someone to fabricate for me. It really is the best way to go.

:beer:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
AutoCad is OK, but Pro D is so much better. It is easier to use and has more potential for design. I am probably going to design my own bumpers for someone to fabricate for me. It really is the best way to go.

:beer:

is Pro D a spin off of Pro E?

-db-
 
dogboy2 said:
A couple (or so....;))....

1) identify your intended end use first, ex. heavy winching, bull bar, or just a simple robust bumper, fully functional or more appearance oriented, etc...think about what features you would like them to have, i.e. light tabs, winch trays, recovery points, towing capability, air chucks, liscense plate accomodations (if you need to run a front plate in your state), recessed or integrated fog/driving lights, backup lights, etc...,etc...

2) use existing bumpers/manufacturers as a reference point for departure. study how they designed the mounting points and how they reinforced critical strength areas (gussets, etc...). also pay attention to material thicknesses and consider this when comparing it to your intended use, i.e. winch bumper vs. more robust version of factory setup. the thickness will compound the overall weight of the finished product significantly which may impact your suspension setup as well. these real world examples are also great for figuring out basic dimensions or for use as a template to knock off -- copying is great especially if you can modify it and make improvements along the way to make it "your own"

3) consider approach/departure angles and factor that in if applicable

4) consider attachment points to frame and whether it makes more sense to mount up to the existing bracketry or if you will need to remove those and modify your frame rails to fit. if you have any intention of ever returning your rig back to a stock condition, this becomes an important consideration

5) drainage considerations/ease of cleaning out the crap & crud from the finished product so it doesn't rust prematurely and destroy all of your good work

6) wiring tabs or thought as to how your new bumpers might incorporate a way to run wiring to any accessory you might mount up to keep it neat & tidy and secure it from abrasion and vibration

7) use a digital and shoot an image of the front and back of your rig to use as an underlay to place beneath some tracing paper for sketching out your ideas

8) autoCAD is great if you have access to it but it's not necessary. get your measurements down and then mock up the bumper(s) out of wood, using the same material thicknesses as you intend to use on the final product. you'll learn immediately what is and isn't working in your design and it's simple to change shapes of pieces, etc... and test fit again. once you get the sketch model to where you want it, you can use the pieces as a template to cut your final steel. you'll know exactly how much steel you will need for the final and you'll have templates to make another bumper should your buddies and fellow ih8mudders start making requests ;p

9) or disregard all of the above and simply "wing it" on the fly, measuring, cutting, fitting, and welding as you go

I'm a product designer by trade and hope the above methodology and process is of help. Making stuff is way :cool:

By the way, "Durka, durka, durka jihad!! AMERICA F:censor: YA!!" Give 'em hell and keep the sand out of the works.

-dogboy- '87 FJ60


have you done any autocad drawings on the 60? if so could you share the dwg
 
dogboy2 said:
A couple (or so....;))....

1) identify your intended end use first, ex. heavy winching, bull bar, or just a simple robust bumper, fully functional or more appearance oriented, etc...think about what features you would like them to have, i.e. light tabs, winch trays, recovery points, towing capability, air chucks, liscense plate accomodations (if you need to run a front plate in your state), recessed or integrated fog/driving lights, backup lights, etc...,etc...

2) use existing bumpers/manufacturers as a reference point for departure. study how they designed the mounting points and how they reinforced critical strength areas (gussets, etc...). also pay attention to material thicknesses and consider this when comparing it to your intended use, i.e. winch bumper vs. more robust version of factory setup. the thickness will compound the overall weight of the finished product significantly which may impact your suspension setup as well. these real world examples are also great for figuring out basic dimensions or for use as a template to knock off -- copying is great especially if you can modify it and make improvements along the way to make it "your own"

3) consider approach/departure angles and factor that in if applicable

4) consider attachment points to frame and whether it makes more sense to mount up to the existing bracketry or if you will need to remove those and modify your frame rails to fit. if you have any intention of ever returning your rig back to a stock condition, this becomes an important consideration

5) drainage considerations/ease of cleaning out the crap & crud from the finished product so it doesn't rust prematurely and destroy all of your good work

6) wiring tabs or thought as to how your new bumpers might incorporate a way to run wiring to any accessory you might mount up to keep it neat & tidy and secure it from abrasion and vibration

7) use a digital and shoot an image of the front and back of your rig to use as an underlay to place beneath some tracing paper for sketching out your ideas

8) autoCAD is great if you have access to it but it's not necessary. get your measurements down and then mock up the bumper(s) out of wood, using the same material thicknesses as you intend to use on the final product. you'll learn immediately what is and isn't working in your design and it's simple to change shapes of pieces, etc... and test fit again. once you get the sketch model to where you want it, you can use the pieces as a template to cut your final steel. you'll know exactly how much steel you will need for the final and you'll have templates to make another bumper should your buddies and fellow ih8mudders start making requests ;p

9) or disregard all of the above and simply "wing it" on the fly, measuring, cutting, fitting, and welding as you go

I'm a product designer by trade and hope the above methodology and process is of help. Making stuff is way :cool:

By the way, "Durka, durka, durka jihad!! AMERICA F:censor: YA!!" Give 'em hell and keep the sand out of the works.

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

Hey good advice. Now I'm gonna have to sit down and figure what my primary functions are gonna be. Originally I had figured on winching, but I honestly don't think I'll be in situations where I'll need a winch very often. Not like I don't have plenty of time to design the perfect bumper for myself :D
 
Pro-E? Did I miss a joke? If not, then I have no idea. Sorry.

Does anyone have any examples yet? Geeze, it' been long enough.

:beer:
 
I don't think so. The programs that we are talking about either have 2 names or are two different programs. What I use is Pro Desktop version 8 or 9 I think. I got it from a grant issued to my school. I believe that the cost for the program individually is in the hundreds because of how advanced it is, but that's besides the point.

What I'm saying is that my program is called Pro-D, at least where I live.

:beer:
 
Pro Desktop is a highly stripped down version of ProE. Both are made by the same company, PTC. I don't know how much ProD is, but an individual license of ProE costs $25k.
 
I have never heard of Pro-E before. I didn't know that Pro-D was a stripped down version of anything because of how much it can do. I can't imagine what a program with much more than what Pro-D has could do. Amazing.

:beer:
 
msummer said:
Pro Desktop is a highly stripped down version of ProE. Both are made by the same company, PTC. I don't know how much ProD is, but an individual license of ProE costs $25k.

Well that answers the question - thank you..... ;)

-db-
 

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