Builds BJ42 To UZJ42 Build thread, V8 Engine swap, 1UZ-FE, A343F, HF1A, Electronics, etc.

Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
188
Location
Netherlands
Great build!!! Following. Great ideas. Awesome.

if you are willing to part out the H55f shifter linkages and the original transmission cross member please let me know. I will be interested in purchasing them.

thanks!
At the moment I won't be selling the H55F, linkages or split case. But once the project is finished I will have to free up some room in the shop so I might.

Did a small job last night, made it an automatic!
I cut off the Lexus LS400 pedal and welded it to the BJ42 pedal. I also removed the clutch cylinder and pedal.
rempedaal.jpeg
 
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Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
188
Location
Netherlands
Had time to do some things, I started on putting in the brake lines and the load sensing proportioning valve.
I had some Stainless Steel brackets lasercut, put rivnuts in them and mounted the brake-lines to these brackets.
The brackets are mounted with an m8x30mm bolt and a 12mm spacer.
remleiding voor.jpeg


The top and bottom m6 holes will receive clamps for an AN6 fuel feed and return line:
remleiding achter.jpeg


I also started thinking about fuel starvation at the fuel pump. Cut out some cardboard and started measuring, this is the largest box I can fit in through the existing hole. I will use 2 baffles and some small holes (and maybe a hinge) to keep the fuel in.
fuel pump.jpeg
 
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Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
188
Location
Netherlands
Then I spent some time on the diff locker in the HF2A transfer case. I wanted the locker to function the same as in my Land Cruiser HDJ100: Push a toggle button to turn the locker on, push again to turn the locker off. I want the 4WD light to light up when the locker is turned on.

The locker motor has some traces that a wiper "wipes" over, this will provide the rotation direction for the motor. I didn't make a picture of this but I did draw it in my schematic below. You can find a picture of the traces and wiper in @UZJ40 's great build thread.
Electronic diff locker HF2A schematic.PNG

In the schematic above you can see a few parts, a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) relay, a toggle switch, some fuses, the locker motor and the wiper traces. The motor current flows through the wiper traces, when the trace stops, the motor stops. Once the switch is pushed the relay selects the other trace and switches motor polarity & trace to turn the other way.

If the motor is not in it's "open" position and power is applied it will always return to the "open" position when the switch is not pushed, and always return to the "locked" position when the switch is pushed, even when you turn off & on the ignition half way the process. If the relay coil fails the system will return to the "open" position.

Here is the setup, i used a current limited power supply to test the motor, you can see the current is very low in the video below this picture:
setup.jpeg


Here is a video of the working schematic:

I identified all the sensors of the HF2A out of a Land Cruiser 100, someone might need it:
sensors.jpeg


I'll be using the 4WD switch to light up a light on the dash. It's simple, +12v to the sensor, sensor to light, light to ground. When the locker is engaged the light will turn on. I can do the same with the Low Range switch and the Neutral switch.

I thought about Dakota Digital gauges but have decided to keep the original instrument cluster.
I will be designing a PCB that provides all the correct signals to the meters, I'll use a PID controlled motor to spin the speedometer.

I want to recreate the original bezel for the tachometer and fit a (round) LCD behind the bezel. On the lcd I will display the tachometer in original style. It would also be possible to display engine temp, transmission temp, oil pressure, etc. Well... that's the plan, but all for later. Let's get the engine in first.
 
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Joined
May 11, 2020
Messages
18
Location
Florida
Looking good. I really hope you don't regret using rivnuts over nutplates in the future. There's a reason rivnuts aren't used in the aviation world (except in very few circumstances). Once some corrosion sets in on the fastener, it very quickly overcomes the holding ability of the rivnut and spins the nut. Not a big deal in easily accessible areas, but for the confined spaces, it can turn the task of changing out a fuel pump into a nightmare.

Also for the oil tube, did you backpurge the stainless? If not you will have fragments (sugaring) that could break off and damage the pump/engine.

Looking forward to seeing this one complete. Love the use of the 3d printer and laser to bring modern solutions.
 
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
188
Location
Netherlands
Never thought about the rivnuts coming loose, never had that happen to me, but it is a good point @Timberwlf .
I might just grab the tig welder and make spot welds on those rivnuts to make sure they stay in place.

The oil tube looks very nice like stainless in the pictures, but it is actually mild steel.
 
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
1,205
Location
San Antonio, Tx
 
 
Cool build @YvesNL , I've done this swap before and I have another one in the works soon for a 62.

If your working that hard on making the diff lock work in the t-case, I would assume your intending to run full-time 4wd?

Keep in mind, you have to rely on your front hubs to remain locked at all times, or install full time drive flanges. Otherwise when you put your trans in PARK it won't hold the vehicle.

Full-time 4wd is asking a lot from your front axle, driveline, etc. The Marks conversion spool is the way to go here, it will convert to 2wd, free up the front axle from extra wear, and reduce the load on the engine freeing up some power for you in 2wd.

Just my opinion, great project!
 
Joined
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Messages
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Hi @cwwfj60 Thanks for you input! Did you also swap over the automatic?

I was thinking on starting out with full time 4WD, I think it will give me good handling on (wet) road (but don't know about torque steer etc).
I know the front axle (and especially the axle shafts/birfields) is a weak point, I was thinking about installing Longfield or RCV axle shafts in the front (and rear) axle + installing full time drive flanges. Will this make it more usable in full time 4WD?

Another interesting think is the driveshafts. These need to me made to length, I thought about a normal one for the rear since the flanges line up.
In the front the flanges don't line up, but a driveshaft with a "double cardan"/CV joints on both ends to help with vibration right?

I've seen the Marks conversion spool you are talking about, nice product. With the spool I will still need the diff lock actuator to turn on 4WD, so there's no waste of time there. But another thing that comes to mind is my 100 series has quite some play in the driveline, not too bad but very noticable. I guess that I will have this in the UZJ42 as well. Having only RWD on the road will effectively half the play I will notice.

There is another option. I might be able to get a HF1A (part time) transfer case. It is shorter than the HF2A so it will give me a longer rear driveshaft, I also won't need the spool.

I really haven't made a choice here, more input is welcome.
Should I stay full-time 4WD or go part-time 4WD?
 
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
1,205
Location
San Antonio, Tx
 
 
I did use an auto, a343 from a 1999 100 series, it was a 2uz swap though, but similar enough for this conversation The truck I built was on a custom aqualu chassis and tub, and ended up being utilized for hunting duty but the full-time 4wd was left intact. I felt it robbed power that would be more welcome on the street than the all wheel drive stability provided, that was my opinion and I told myself the next one I built would be 2wd converted.

BUT, you clearly have a different climate your contending with, I don't mean to keep you from going down that path if the all wheel power is handy for your needs and driving conditions. Go for it, you could always convert later. Meanwhile aftermarket shaft upgrades and drive flanges are a smart addition.

HF1A would be the way to go if I were in your shoes and had one available
 
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
188
Location
Netherlands
I've made some drawings for the fuel pump "bucket" / anti surge box and had it bend up last week. Welded it up and mounted fuel pump this weekend. The pump is held in place by a piece of rubber and stainless bands. I've also made a new topplate, only one passage for the positive pump wire, a welded stud for the negative.
fuel tank bucket.jpeg


Here you can see the electrical connections:
connections.jpeg


I used the pump wires from the old tank. I could not get a good crimp with my cheap ratcheting crimper & terminals at home so I crimped and soldered on the terminals. A good quality crimp would be better, but didn't had that at this moment, I did have a soldering iron.

I'm using a stainless steel bolt with petrol/E10 resistant laser cut rubber rings. The rings are 30mm in diameter, the stainless washer is 25mm in diameter. The two rings in the middle are 4mm total, the stainless plate only 2mm. The inner diameter is undersized, when tightened down it should provide a good seal.
connection.jpeg


You can see the connection below, note that this is not the 25mm stainless washer:
in tank.jpeg


All the fuel needs to pass through a single hole, i used the same size as in the Lexus LS400 tank. The fuel return will come back into the "bucket" / anti surge box. You can also see that I placed two spotwelds on every rivnut, so that they won't spin if I ever need to replace the pump on the top of a mountain far from home.
hole.jpeg


Still haven't decided on full-time vs part-time 4WD, but I am searching for a HF1A. If I can find that I will go part time, otherwise I will just leave the HF2A full-time and can always convert later.
 
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
188
Location
Netherlands
I installed the Power steering box and attached the steering shaft with a universal joint:
stuurbekrachtiging en remcilinder.jpeg


I also reinstalled the brake booster & master cylinder. I used AN3 hose and stainless couplings to connect the master cylinder to the brake lines on the frame. I will also be using these to go to the axles.

It wasn't late after I had finished this so I pulled out all of the old wiring, I will redo everything with fresh wires, relays and a lot of fuses. At first I was going to cut pieces of the old harness but it might still have some value, it's nice and complete, there is only one modification for a 12v radio and that's it.
 
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