Builds Barons white FJ62 log (2 Viewers)

[Skniper]

So, some tips to put it back together.

- Oil spiggot bearing and mail seal before you hammer it in. Goes in much easier and you wont bugger it up (like I dig).
- Had to get the clutch resurfaced. i had hot spots on it.
View attachment 3092800

Cost $70 at a local break and clutch shop and took only a few hours.

- Putting the clutch plate back in, is the second most difficult thing (again cause the bell housing is in the way). It really is a two man job, only to lift and hold, the plat, centre the alignment tool, and the other to thumb tighten a screw, and then turn the flywheel. I got it done, by aligning the helper dowle thingy to the top to take the weight while carefully balancing the thing.
- If the alignment tool DOES NOT EASILY SLIDE IN/OUT then its not aligned. when doing the previous step, i must have knocked it somehow when I tightened all the screws, and the centering tool needed lots of effort to pull out. IT means that you CANT get the gearbox in.
- The whole engine lift/balancing tool/chain lift turned out to be not ideal. The problem is that a landcruiser gearbox/transfer box weight is NOT evenly distributed, so its near impossibly while hanging for it to be aligned, and will sit 5% twisted to one side. between this issue, and the cantering tool issue I spent 3 hours trying to get it all to connect. I had to give up.
- The next day and a clearer head, I decided to remove and redo the clutch plate. I found that I could 'loosen' the plate screws enough, that the actual clutch could be moved, without pulling it all apart. This let me re-align the clutch plate (it did not look out of alignment, but it was). The next big tip. TIGHTEN THE CLUTCH PLATE SCREWS A LITTLE BIT, ONE SCREW AT A TIME. (dont tighten one all the way). You need to evenly tighten the plate, testing that the alignment tool is relatively loose, turn the flywheel, tighten another screw. Do this for 10 mins until all the screws are tight and still continue. Each time you tighten one side, the other comes loose. Eventually it will all be tight AND the alignment tool still has some play.
- Dont forget the clutch-fork. I didnt replace the throw-out bearing as the one the KIT came with was very different. bearing felt ok anyway. Also remember to lightly grease anything that will be touching other metal, but not enough to splatter everywhere when its turning.
- This now worked. I was able to manhandle the gearbox in, through the clutch fork, into the hole. The clutch fork has its own issues in that it has two sections to go through. Its possible to get these lined up if you focus on it. you can get the fork on properly first before targeting the hole. You cant actually see the hole, so instead use the outside bolts hole as a guide AND ensure its all going together in parallel by looking at the space (bottom/top/left/right should all me the same). the lift balancer became handy to help align this. ALSO, put the transfer box into gear, and twist the outputshaft. This turns the input shaft to help with the alignment. You can also 'feel' where the edges of the outputshaft are when you have it nearly engaged (you get a notched feel)
- I could not 'push' it all the way, once it went, but I came within 1cm. This was enough to finger tighten the gearbox bolts. Then, (after a quick beer, 10am), I just slowly tightened the bolts until it all came together.

View attachment 3092806

Whole job, took prob 10 hours over 3 days and prob three dozen beers, mostly at the end. It would have been 6 hours, if I didn't stuff things up. I have NO IDEA how you do this from under the car. Would recommend a good gearbox lifter, and remember that the bottom of the geabox is NOT flat.

It can be done. I did this job on my back for the first time a couple weeks ago from underneath with the t-case attached. Yes, it requires a very solid adjustable trans jack, and secured to the jack solidly, and patience. It's a battle of half millimeters. Making alignment dowels out of some spare bolts is a genius trick learned here on Mud from 'those wiser in the know'.
Also grateful for my young strong son and his good eyes to help dock that thing. Fingers crossed we didn't mash the pilot bearing in the process.

 

[Baron]

So starting to fix the last bit of rust in the Cab. Passenger side, in the roof, but has penetrated, from inside, chassis to roof, then into top door jam and gutter (all three levels of metal need replacing. Also the gutter down A piller, and a little in top corner above windscreen. All the usual spots.

One problem I had was the internal chassis, to the door jams. This is quite a complex fold of metal, and i was not looking forward to fixing it.

As I have a doner chassis (with rust in the exact same place, except to 10cm), I cut that small but out, took it to a local metal fabricate, and had him build me 4m of this channel. Its not 100%, the turn radius of one of the internal facing is a little off. The other issue is the top fold, is NOT straight on the chassis, but instead flows long and short, but its easy fixed. Having this prob saved a fair bit of time. NOTE, some of the metal near the pillar is dual-ply-edge (likely how it was built, when the pillar was spot welded to chasis. i'm having to cut this our, and just put the single 'ply' in.

I'm still putting putting it together.

I think the learning, is NOT to cut on the inner or outer fold, but instead cut half way into the vertical bit. (its a pain to weld those angles together). Also, I have a gutter section which I keep on pulling out and lining up to ensure that it will fit well. I still have more to do, but its getting easier.

 

[Baron]

ok, so I have a question for anyone following/reading. I've very worried I'm going to get the rust back in the roof sections. My current process is:
- Cust rusted metal out.
- hit whatever remains with Brunox (epoxy/rust treatment, turns black, seems to have a good sealing property).
- Shape new metal, hit the new meal (both sides) with copper/weld through primer
- Weld it in place.
- Hit what I can with the Brunox again (clean first)
- Prime(epoxy 2K) , then Paint (2K) . (haven't got this far).

What I'm worried about, is my welding, particularly, behind side, where I cant really get a spray too. (Chassis, under the roof in the void behind gutter rail), where the rust problems started in the first place) , creating bare new metal which will rust again? What do people do? Is this a Cavity wax step?

Any thoughts? If this the treatment process?

 

[onemanarmy]

For the clutch job, why did you use grease instead of the bread method for the pilot bearing?

 

[Baron]

For the clutch job, why did you use grease instead of the bread method for the pilot bearing?

what I had at the time, and what I found detailed tips for.

 

[SteveH]

What I'm worried about, is my welding, particularly, behind side, where I cant really get a spray too. (Chassis, under the roof in the void behind gutter rail), where the rust problems started in the first place) , creating bare new metal which will rust again? What do people do? Is this a Cavity wax step?

When you are all done and have properly sealed the roof seam, water should not actively be getting inside the roof. But, you will need to park the truck indoors and keep it out of any salt spray/air.

You may want to drill a few holes in the support channel (inside the roof) so you can spray a rust treatment (grease of some sort) on the back side of your repairs. This should only be done after the final painting is complete. Anything with paint on one side and grease on the other should not rust.

 

[Baron]

So, I discovered (early on) that old whitey had bucket seats, but the new grey cab had front bench seats. (I'm moving stuff from Whitey to grey). Only when you compare them, you realise that they are different mounts. So this is how you convert a front bench seat to front buckets.

These are the mounts from whitey. The seat mounts are dual holes (only one is used), and it has two raised mounts for the centre console. The forward one has an indent, as there is a ridge on the floor to go around. These two raised mounts need to be removed. I grinded the bases lightly to expose where the spot welds were. I then used a 10mm saw edge spot weld bit to drill these out, and with a little wiggling they came out easy.

This is now in Grey. NOTE, the bench seat, has a SINGLE HOLE seat mount in the centre (just under that high mount). You need to remove this mount (using spot weld removing bits again), and put it back where the passenger bucket will go. (Or get the seat mount from the doner)

This centre mount, then moves to the mount under the passenger bench seat. In this pic you can see the rough positioning of them all. You have to remove some of the sound deadening for the new seat mount position and bring high mount.

I took some detailed measurements from whitey to figure out where things go. I did the seat mount first, as the rear high console mount aligns with the two seat mounts (long ruler to measure).

This is after. all welded up. I remeasured the space between the bolt holes to ensure they align correctly. The Bench mount is a single hole. but the bucket is a dual. I dont think it matters, but the final config is a mix of both. I guess the real test will come in a few months when I bolt in the seat and centre console.

 

[Baron]

So just a summary where I'm at. The new Cab is now epoxy primed. Things Fixed:
- Passenger side Rust in roof (pretty much whole side), including down into door james. All rust cut out in roof and chassis, new gutters along whole side and down A pillar. Everything rust proofed, epoxied.
- Drivers side, 3-4 smaller roof parts fixed
- fixed rust around wiper motor, and rust proofed/epoxied
- filled mount holes for side trim
- grinded/rust proofed/epoxied surface rust on rear tray, and some area's under neath.
- Roof stripped, grinded, rust proofed, epoxied
- under chassis stripped, grinded, rust proofed and epoxied

I still need to apply some filler to the sections I fixed to smooth it out, I will then re-apply seam-sealer, and re-epoxy prime. Then will Paint (I'm painting in White 033), old whitey is 045, but I prefer it a little more 'creamy' colour, and re-apply cavity wax in roof sections and front cowl. The need to do doors, bonnet, etc and put it all back together . Wish it would stop raining so bloody much! lucky to get a sunny day every 2 weeks.

 

[Baron]

Quick update since last time. I've decided to devote 100% of my time to the project when its not raining (Sydney) or working. Which sums up to about 3 hours over the last 3 weeks. bloody rain. The new cabin is all epoxied, and I've seen a small bit of rust poke through, but I can tell I didn't hit it correctly, easy fix. During a quick break in the rain, I wanted to do base colour under the cab (white) and on the firewall. I did a bit of research to choose the colour. Some people say Black, but that actually makes leaks hard to find. Others say Raptor, but I know from experiences its damn hard to get mud off raptor. I could have gone a stone sealant, but I also likes the look of body-colour. I was worried about strength, but after I put 2-3 coats on, 2K Base Colour, properly applied is tough as hell. Way more than all the 1K spray cans I was using on chassis/engine parts.

 

[Baron]

So body is now straight and primed.

something to consider when you are doing these large rust fix jobs. Along one side, I replaced quite a bit of metal, from gutter up to the roof top edge. It's damn hard to get back to the original shape of the roof with filler etc. I've now done three complete primer coats, and in between then copious amounts of filler, sanded back trying to get the lines right. Its quite hard, as when you start doing filler, you loose 'sight' of how straight it is or is'nt (cause its pink or green filler on grey). only when you re-prime the lot in grey do you see the bits you missed, even when trying to feel edges etc. Also, you cant see s*** sanding in sunlight (hence the tent thingy). Thinking back, while a whole roof cut replacement might seem a lot of work, it might not be compared to trying to get a straight roof from your welding. Spent hours on this so far.

2nd learning, DONT CUT CORNERS stripping the roof. Get it back to bare metal, however your doing it. done leave any paint or bits, as this will show straight into the final prime.

Some other things, Epoxy primer, sprays flat, and thin, and a bit plasticy. Seals it up nice, but and sanding goes through it. I then used high-build primer, which splays thicker, and rougher and MUST be sanded before filler of further coats, so I reckon, only use it on flat surfaces when you need it, dont spray it on internal, complex shapes.

I went through 4L. (actually 5L, when include hardener) which did, 4 coats (2 full coats in and out initial, and 2 last coats, mostly out) of concept EP41 2K epoxy primer, and prob 1/2 of high-build concept 2K primer, on 4 coats (2 coats, on two seperate occasions). Using a devilbliss FSG 5, 1.8m tip. (this gun is great). I bought a full pack of 3M PPS2 cups, which saves a lot of time. Using a spray gun can cleaner as well, on a cheap 5HP 50L compressor (its pretty much on all the time each coat, and I pause when I switch sides to let it catch up, hasn't been a problem). I'm priming DIY, outside. Have not had dust or bug issues (maybe 1-2), but I'll do final coat in the shed. Using proper protection, on mouth and eyes, and disposable gloves, but not a paint suit.

Used Also, learn a lot about sanding and filler, but I'll save that for another post.


PS: You can see I made myself a car Dolly x 2. Some big casters: 5 inch Heavy Duty Casters, Lockable Bearing Caster Wheels with Brake, Swivel Casters for Furniture and Workbench, Set of 4, Load 1800lbs : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement - https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07HFSQ386?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details.
, some 50mm x 200mm pine sleepers. They came 3m long, so cut in half was 1.5m, HOWEVER I need 1.6-1.7m to fit the body on, so you can see the bit of engineering I used. some 90mm timber roof screws, held it all together. These push around quite easily, even the slight rise into the garage. Sits, high enough to spray under, edges, and low enough to reach across the roof. I don't think you could make them smaller as they need some weight to not move around too easily. I painted the bottom on the chassis already in primer and colour when it was on the chassis. I've also come to the conclusion, when its all back together, it wont fit in my garage. time for an upgrade.

 

[Baron]

So I researched filler quite a bit. Settled on Evercoat Rage Gold. When I started it was going on rough, but turns out was just poor form to mix it. Once I learnt, it was smooth, thick and solid. (ideally, mix with one tool and lay with another! but most people use one, in which case DONT get filler all over the applicator. It works much better with a clean applicator). Also size the applicator to the job (big to start with, but small when plugging holes). Watch some vids to see how to make it work.

However I was getting small air holes (not a lot, but some) and also come small sanding marks. Rage is too thick for these small area's. I tried Evercoat Metal Glaze, BUT it turns out, if its been sitting for a while it goes dry, and I could'nt make it work). I tried a a standard concept light filler, but it was heavier then rage. Eventually found Dolphin glaze filler, its perfect, a bit more runny, but fills these small bit. Also, got sick of laying it on cardboard, and found a great solution in rip-off paper board (100 sheets), works great. (NOTE: you have like 2min to lay filler before it hardens, so make smaller lots, more often!).

Anyway, I blocked with a proper long block and 240grit paper! I also have milwaukee Dual action orbital sander (these are great), with 180 grit. These did most of the work. I have a smaller Milwaukee sander with 75mm disks, and a boche multi-tool with a arrow-head (this is the only way to get into square corners). Some lessons? Use block as much as possible, as it wont dig into edges and create holes you just need to refill and fix. Sone use circular disks on flat surfaces (digs in, but it great on shaping larger bits). Also, have a 1m steel ruler, as thats how to see it you really have a flat line. Down side with working outside, it its hard to see shape (compared to a white booth). Also had a air spray handy at all times.

Next steps. a). Doors, bonnet, tray etc. All other internal metal bits,

b) Seam Seal, including self-leveling sealant in gutters, and prob another Epoxy coat (moving to PPG paint, as found a local shop thats better).

c) Wheel archers, stone coating

d) Colour (Toyota White 033 for this one).

 

[Baron]

So fender weekend. Pull them out from under the house. Remembered I still had some mending (Rust) to do, little on the top, near the side mirror, and lower panel. Only like 1 inch on each, and rest is fine. Strange both sides had same issue at the top. Under the very top part of the fender is another bracing panel, thats only 3mm off the outside panel. I found on one side some leaves stuck in between. I suspect thats how the rust starts. Might hit it with something to stop this.

Anyway, as a learning from the body, I dont want to hit the fenders with heavy sanding, as any slight dig into the metal shows through. I decided to use my CAM's paint stripper instead. This actually worked a treat. I started by hitting the entire thing with 180grit DA sander. (this helps chemical get into the paint, you could prob go to 80, if your carefull). I would drop 4-5 blobs on the fender, then user a paint brush to spread around (wearing good 3M breather). Leave for 15min, then hit with power spray to wash off. This would get 95% of it, but some remained, so just dabbed where it was left, and got most of it off. Under the paint is this other layer, that looks an anodised layer. You can sand it off, but I dont think its needed. Its thinner than pain, and does not show through to pain coats). I did one fender on the inside with stripper (PS, dont use stripper on complex parts, or seams. You dont want it stuck in a corner somewhere not washed off). i also found 3-4 'blooms' of rust. under the paint, but not through it. It looked like a spider web 1cm long, and easily removed with sander. I suspect pin-holes in paint, start this, which turned into much larger area's. This is why you strip all paint off, and dont just cover it. One of these was larger, and I think nearly digging in.

I also finished with some bi-carb/water spray to neutralise the stipper. I did both front fenders, and inner fender this way.

Here are pics after the 1st round of stripping. 2nd round got most of the left over off. the strips, aligns with the original 'sanding'. Maybe 80grit would let the stripper work even better. I'll try that in future. That weird pattern in the pics, did not show up in real-life, and I suspect was just part of drying. It was not present when finished, only clean metal.

A few tips. (happy for other suggestions).

I did this outside. Dont do it in direct sun. The stripper will Boil on the metal, and is less effective. Its ok to just poor blobs direct from the can, as long as its that consistency of thick tomato paste. Do all of this in one day (sand, strip, clean, neutralise, sand again, prime). Dont let it sit, or rust starts. You will get flash rust immediately using stripper. I did'nt pay much attention to those area's that wont be visible (under light assembly etc).

 

[Baron]

After stripping, I wanted to epoxy seal straight away ( if you dont, you will need to re-sand all again, as flash rust starts). I tool the 4 parts and completely sanded them back using 180grit DA, and 240grit hand. I had to dig into those rush blooms a bit. I'm starting to learn not to get rough with sanding, if you dont want to spend hours with filler. On things like, back of fender, and inner fenders, you wont get all the paint off. corners, and bits are just impossible.

Just a note on epoxy. I originally used a concept paints EP41, from a DIY shop. This worked nicely, and no real complaints. I thought it was a budget version. Used a whole 4L (5 once mixed), on the body and needed some more, and I found a small commercial paint shop locally. He sold me PPG EPO Epoxy Primer green-grey. Saying this was standard commercial grade used at the paint shops. It was actually 15% cheaper then the one I got, and was double the weight. To be honest, this went on great in the gun (DevilBliss FSG-5), and while it tool longer to harden was a great result. It seems to go on thicker, but more liquid so its filling in sanding lines flat a bit.

I'll see if it sands better when I get to that step.

 

[Baron]

So I underestimate how difficult prepping panels is. Minor dings are straight forward, except if on and edge or something. Where I've done a weld-fix, particularly on a curved surface is so hard. You fill and sand, fill and sand. looks good, but then re-apply a primer, and suddenly its off. I'm learning that powertools cant be used for this fine work. has to be large blocks in sweaping movements, to get a nice curve. (then your prime, and because your so focused on that spot, you apply too much and get an drip, back to square one. The top-edge of the fender was the most difficult. Its that place that will get seen a lot, and will stand out if not right (both fenders had rust fixes in this area).

I've completed the fenders, ready for top coat. All doors are done in first-epoxy sealer, as well as tailgates and bonnet (got a New-old-stock bonnet for cheap, with just one small ding).

I did 6 doors, only because I got into a bit of a process, and would rather have them sealed if they need to sit a while.

Only when you get into this level of detail do you notice issues. Like replacement holes for side mirrors. One of the doors, which looked great, turned out to be full of bog, evening our a previous weld-fix. The fix is good, no rush, but I'll decide later if I'm going to use this door, as its a bit of work again.

 

[Baron]

So done with painting for a while. Everything is sealed. Moving back to the chassis, finish off everything I need to do before the body goes back on.

Cleaned up the fuel Tank. Removed the guage unit and fuel-send, and stuck a phone camera in to look around. Some very small bits of rust, but none that is loose. Pulled the fuel-send showed that its connected via a windey pipe to a orange filter. Filter is still in good shape, but was a bit tricky to put back. Everything is getting wire-wheeled and sealed with paint of some-type. I've discovered 'high-Temp' black and clear, which do a great job. The black is a great Matt-Black, and seems to go on better then any other black I have. Put fuel tank in, with a bungy-chord to hold it up for now. Also had to put the spare-wheel chain back, as the bolts are under the the fuel-tank.

fitted sway-bar bushes that arrived, That was easy. Fitted steering dampener and rest of the steering stuff. That was tricky. Forgot that the steering rods have a tie-down over each thread, so had to remove ends and fit that cause I forgot the first time. Also started wire-wheeling random engine bits.

The Air-Con pipes have an aluminium ends on them. They were all ugly, but a quick wire-wheel they come up shiney as. then hit with the clear spray. Hopefully will stay that way.

With boxing day sales, ordered some missing bits I need. Namely a water pump. I also wanted the AC Idle pully replaced, as thats what I thought was causing a squeal. I pulled the PowerSteering Pump (order = remove pulley first, then long mounting bolts, no other way). (Had to bend Radiator a bit (easy cause iI removed front panel) to get my big impact 19mm driver on the pulley nut. You need to have the belts on and use impact driver. The torque will remove it (but a spanner wont). I also removed the AC pump and brackets, and idler pulley (it was not very smooth on the bearings, hence a good idea to replace it) . Cleaned them all up, painted black and cleaned any rust and sealed. Was quite pleased with all this.

I also wire-wheeled the Transfer case top and end (They are silver metal, vs transmission with seems to be cast iron). Came up great. Sealed with the clear high-temp paint. Accidentally got one of the cables for the 4x4 detection light caught in the wheel, which I had to repair (was a fortune to replace it). I also found much of the original electrical tape used on the original wire-guides had lost its stick. I found some new 'loom-tape', which seems to be a cloth version. It wrapped on well and looks good. I found some of the rubber insulation on the AC pipes was also perishing in parts. I used the 'loom-tape' over the top, which also cleaned these up really nicely.

I also ordered from US some POR15 high-Heat Aluminium paint. (from a recommendation on here). I sprayed the exhaust with this after a wire-wheel. This needs high-temp to set, so hopefully this is ok for the time being. Also replaced all exhaust clamps. These were standard 57mm and 67mm from local shops.

Finally, with the power-steering and AC pump removed I could see all of the fuel-pump and water pump lines easily. I found my pipe-kit was missing the short upper pipe, so I ordered that. Learning a lesson from previously, I decided to put everything back together again, even through I would have to remove it when the pump and pipes arrive. Cant take the risk of forgetting exactly how it goes back or loosing a critical bolt or something. The Pump and AC were all cleaned up, which worked well.

I also started to piece together all the body mounts, ready to go back on. When you pull these apart, some parts stay on the car etc, so my box was filled over time. I then did a second chassis, which was mixed in. I did some research and found that this box, made up 4 seperate types of mount combinations. LESSON for anyone else? when you seperate the cab, carefully bolt together all the mounts with their original parts and dont mix them together.

Now back to painting, as the chassis is awaiting some deliveries.

 

[Baron]

Back to the body, while waiting for some parts. I'm applying seam-sealer. Many of the gutters were replaces, and welding of the roof parts on was messy in some parts. I wanted to use a self-levelling version. did some reading on it, and seems good. Had some problems procuring this in Australia (suttons had it) and its not cheap, but I picked it up on sale. It comes with a special applicator to mix it. I also had to buy a special dual gun, so I'm invested in this stuff. I masked the area's on the gutter side (and in hindsite, you should also mask the body side as well). It lays easily, comes out grey. It slowly levels out over about 6-8mins before it starts to solidify. I 'blocked' the ends near the windscreen, as this would have drained it. This worked ok, and is needed. Some pics.

So I had some small bubbles along the way. I noticed them after 10min, and popped a few, but the sealler had already gone tacky. I assume this is just in the sealler, and not likely all the way through, so I will ignore for now. Now its hard, nothing I can do about it. Quite happy with the end result. I guess the alternative would have been non-flowing sealer and just use finger to level it off. i think this is worth the extra cost.

 

[Baron]

Lesson #483 in dismantling a 60. You need to pair and label the door hinges. This is prob 8 months after I removed them. They are labled. "L" and "R" and "1" and "2". And also stamped with some additional numbers. The shapes appear to be in 3 styles. So I hope this is a match. Next step is to Paint them the body colour. I wont know if the pairs are correct till I fit the doors. I might have to re-paint once fitted, and that seems to be the norm.

 

[Baron]

So, all the 'inside' panels have been painted in colour. Inside doors, hatch, under bonnet, inside fenders etc. This was just done outside DIY. turned out great, but not shop quality, with a bit of dust. This cleaned up ok, but it tells me I cant paint the 'show' sides this way. So while I consider how to set up a paint booth in my shed, i got out the electroplating kit. This is your basic Janes 10L Kit. setup all the process and tubs. Made a few mistakes along the way. main issue is leaving stuff in baths for too long (i.e. forgetting it). The rust cleaner that comes in the kit is great. Cleans up anything, so I even used that on some other bits. Takes about an hour per round, and I can do roughly 3 bits per round. Takes some time, and you cant 'miss' step in any way, but thank goodness the cricket test is on. So I'm doing;
- Door strikes and screws
- All rear door/hatch hardware, including springs
- back seat strike
- bonnet latch
- some other stuff. including power-steer tub

This is how its worked so far:

 

[Baron]

So in the hour long sessions while plating I decided get the wiring loom out and clean it up. I'm using an old table with no top, which is use-full as I can go around the loom and easily get under parts. Basically any tape wrap that is loose I'm removing and redoing and this occurs a lot. I got some proper loom tape (car builders) as well, but using that mainly for internal loom. I'm degreasing it all, cleaning it up, getting into all the connectors as well, and using contact cleaner on those. Finding all the PO edits and removing them. I'm also re-taping the white and green OEM bits, just to make it all nice. I labled most of the connectors when I removed it, but then discovered I used two types of marker during the labling, one of which had faded. Hopefully this wont be an issue later on. I found some future issues to fix. Namely, the inside door looms were originally cut, so I'll need to find some new ones. I really don't think, they can be repaired as the cut is in the parts that need to bend a lot (door jam). )PS>. Anyone every removing a door or rear hatch, please don't cut the loom, just disconnect it. Also found a couple of cut wires, so that will need some tracing to see what they are. Overall the loom is in good shape.

But I want to wire in some additional items into the new cruiser. But the while the fuse box has 3-4 spare slots, it has no common rails, so its a bit pointless using it (and the slots have no 'plugs' in them, which I have no idea where to source. I have seen some 'spare' connectors in the loom, which I know exist, which might do for power to a UHF. I want to provide power to some BMW e46 electric seats, but I dont think I can use the loom for this.

Some pics of this part:

 

[Baron]

Some more wiring loom. I pulled out all the wiring, and laid it out like it was on the car. I decided to make a couple of video's on this, as it may help someone in the future and it explains how the wiring in the FJ62 works.

Firstly, the relay and fuse box. I've only had to replace one relay - flasher, and I found it a real pain in the neck, firstly because of the location of the relays and secondly because it was not going to budge. With the whole box out I can see why? You really cant get to any of the hold-pins on the relays without removing the whole thing. This should explain.

fj62 relay and fuse box


Next I decided to walk through and explain how the whole loom works. You really dont see how this works in the car, but the entire engine bay and instrument panel loom is one entire piece. The rears can disconnect and you can see how the doors work as well, and also how the rear works, which is all connected through the passenger side loom. NOTE: This is an Aussie FJ62 GXL, Petrol.

FJ62 wiring loom walkthrough