Builds FJZ -> HDJ -> 1HDT, 5 Speed, Locked, Lifted and Loved 80 Series Build - PTO ! (1 Viewer)

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I don’t think all those humps lineup perfectly with the bolts. With that style cylinder I didn’t have to cut the firewall hole that the push rod goes through any bigger, but there is something off centered with those spot welds. I think there is a thread on here somewhere where a guy showed the actual measurements where to drill those holes if you look around

Yeah ok with the boosted clutch you certainly had to make the hole off center and you are correct that the humps had at least one stud on the other side. Easy enough job though
 
With the clutch in place it is time to make the shifter fit. The Auto Tunnel and the manual tunnel are not the same and come off the production line as either manual or auto.

As luck would have it though the HDJ80 had a perfect manual tunnel and the FJZ80 didn't so I just cut off the top of the HDJ 80 and welded it into the FJZ 80
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You can see the holes drawn for the manual setup don't have a lot in common with the Auto Holes

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Thats ok we can make it work

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Welded up, quick coat of paint and walla one FJZ80 with manual Tunnel, also put the clutch pedal in while I was there.
 
With the clutch in place it is time to make the shifter fit. The Auto Tunnel and the manual tunnel are not the same and come off the production line as either manual or auto.

As luck would have it though the HDJ80 had a perfect manual tunnel and the FJZ80 didn't so I just cut off the top of the HDJ 80 and welded it into the FJZ 80
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You can see the holes drawn for the manual setup don't have a lot in common with the Auto Holes

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Thats ok we can make it work

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Welded up, quick coat of paint and walla one FJZ80 with manual Tunnel, also put the clutch pedal in while I was there.
That be the cleanest way to do it I ever seen!
 
I just put the gasket on the firewall, marked it out, cut it with my body saw and drilled the holes.

The holes are in the frame for the brackets to mount to clutch hard and soft lines on an FZJ80 but they don’t all have a captive nut on the inside of the frame.

Cheers
 
I just put the gasket on the firewall, marked it out, cut it with my body saw and drilled the holes.

The holes are in the frame for the brackets to mount to clutch hard and soft lines on an FZJ80 but they don’t all have a captive nut on the inside of the frame.

Cheers
Ahhh BUGGER ... I literally just looked at the HDJ80 and thought when the sun comes up I will swap that lines over cool I have all those factory brackets and now I will need to nutsert their ass before I fit them. Oh well, thanks for the heads up .

Its interesting how they put all the holes in the chassis but then save on it by not putting nuts in, was same with the Transmission Cross member, holes but no nuts
 
Curious. Did you trim the wide brake pedal or use the HDJ one?
I used the HDJ80 pedal. My aim is that when I am done it will be a FJZ80 body with HDJ80 internals and you will not be able to pick it was ever an FJZ80 on anything that is HDJ80.

I say on anything that is HDJ80 as teh flip side is I want to keep as many FJZ80 parts as possible as they are readily available and swapping to a less available HDJ80 pars for no direct benifit wouldbe stupid.

I will be converting to 12V starter and using 2nd battery in stock location as a dual battery setup and removing as much of the electrics as possible including ABS and using the HDJ80 setup which I prefer. I figure ABS is useless anyway once I have 35/37" tires and hyper flex suspension .

Let the cut and paste continue !!!
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I used the HDJ80 pedal. My aim is that when I am done it will be a FJZ80 body with HDJ80 internals and you will not be able to pick it was ever an FJZ80 on anything that is HDJ80.

I say on anything that is HDJ80 as teh flip side is I want to keep as many FJZ80 parts as possible as they are readily available and swapping to a less available HDJ80 pars for no direct benifit wouldbe stupid.

I will be converting to 12V starter and using 2nd battery in stock location as a dual battery setup and removing as much of the electrics as possible including ABS and using the HDJ80 setup which I prefer. I figure ABS is useless anyway once I have 35/37" tires and hyper flex suspension .

Let the cut and paste continue !!!View attachment 2734483View attachment 2734484View attachment 2734485View attachment 2734486
Good call with deleting that 24 V nonsense. Totally not needed
 
I know there are a few opinions on Hyperflex Arms and other stuff but in my world I have run them before and liked them and I like the fact that they have actually passed a certification process including dive, brake, lane changes and design evaluation so I know the quality and design is solid unlike a lot of the others on the market.
As well as the Hyperflex I am doing fixed lowers adjustable uppers on the rear with adjustable panard and up front adjustable panard and heavy duty tie rods. I hope to couple this with a stage 3 ICON kit which will give me the quality and ride I am after with products I can trust.

Suspenion.jpg
 
I wonder how much heavier these are compared to stock, anyone weighed them ?
 
Answering my own questions now just cause I want to know and I happen to have spare set sitting around off a truck.

Just a little bit bigger

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1st Up my Toyota

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Next up the Hyperflex
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Radius Arms
- Stock = 22lbs
- Hyperflex = 42 lbs

So 20 Lbs a side so 40 lb total plus probably 5 lbs worth of plates call it 10 to be safe, so the Hyperflex setup is going to add 50 lbs onto vehicle weight over stock radius arms.
 
The new uper links are way heavier than stock and adjustable so I can set the pinion angle where I want it after the lift is fitted.

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Stock Uppers are 4 lbs and Adjustables are 9 lbs so with two thats another 10 lbs
 
Lower Links are nice and beefy. I didn't get the ones with the shark fin as they look ugly and I doubt I will bend these as I am more of a soft wheeler mall crawling sort of 80 series guys these days.

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Stock Lower Links - 8 LBS
Superior Fixed Lower links - 17 Lbs

So 9 lbs per side so there is another 9 per side, 18lbs total , girl is getting FAT !!!
 
Brake Pedal , will get some pics with the Auto one next to it but pretty sure they are the same apart from the pad size

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Ok enough distraction by shinny stuff . Being a 1HDT you would have to be very confident it had had BEB's done not to do them along with Timing belt and water pump. So I orders the parts in from @cruiseroutfit and pulled her down.

As I expected they were on their way to failure but had bee caught just in time.

Now I should point out that the truck was supplied with an Oil Inspection and Compression numbers report. Oil showed no issues at all and the numbers where good. I redid the compression test and the numbers matched what I was told but oil was fresh and you would have to think with the condition of the BEB's I found that oil test if done on older oil should have shown higher levels of metal than expected.

Anyway, new BEB's, new ROD Bolts, some FSM Specs and Oil Pan fresh from the over and she is looking good and ready for water pump, new clutch and some hoses before she goes back in .

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Ok enough distraction by shinny stuff . Being a 1HDT you would have to be very confident it had had BEB's done not to do them along with Timing belt and water pump. So I orders the parts in from @cruiseroutfit and pulled her down.

As I expected they were on their way to failure but had bee caught just in time.

Now I should point out that the truck was supplied with an Oil Inspection and Compression numbers report. Oil showed no issues at all and the numbers where good. I redid the compression test and the numbers matched what I was told but oil was fresh and you would have to think with the condition of the BEB's I found that oil test if done on older oil should have shown higher levels of metal than expected.

Anyway, new BEB's, new ROD Bolts, some FSM Specs and Oil Pan fresh from the over and she is looking good and ready for water pump, new clutch and some hoses before she goes back in .

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That was the perfect time to do the rear main seal, you did right?
 

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