Building up Papa Smurf (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Threads
5
Messages
937
Location
Gueydan, La
This may be a slow process, i am feeling motivated right now on it though. Really this thread will mostly be for me to keep track of my progress over time.

Almost titled this "BikerTrash's No S#!t Build" but I know we are supposed to be family friendly and all. While I was robbing parts of the 4runner i just kept looking at all jankey BS i did with that build. The example that i am gonna rat my self out on today is the air filter adaptor on the Webber.



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Didn't take a picture of it on the 4runner ever but that's not important. I couldn't figure out how to remove it from the 4runner, there were no bolts. I had just siliconed it in place because I was to lazy to drive 3 miles to the hardware store.

Today though i an $1.32 poorer and it is mounted right.

With the size of the engine I have read the rectangular filter that comes with the webbers is slightly restrictive so i bought a 14" open element filter.



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Just look how pretty and how much more surface area. Bling bling!



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Now check out how it doesn't fit :(





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9 inch is better, no more interference with the brake fluid reservoir. When it is time to replace I will be changing to a wix filter about half an inch taller.

But anyway, if y'all see me do something stupid, just remind me to keep the s*** out of this build k?

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This is why I have my thread. It sometimes sucks to do things the right way, but if you do it's highly unlikely that you'll be disappointed in the results! Happy wrenching bud!:cheers:
 
Congrats on the new rig.
I read some where that bar of soap may be rubbed over a leak in a fuel tank for a trail repair. It may keep the bomb from building under your 60 for the next time you start it.
 
I must be living right, i wanted to burn as much of the gas out of this tank so that when my new one comes in from cruiser parts.net it will be lighter to drop. Went to church in it this morning, drove to Abbeville to pick up some parts, on the way home about 4 miles left to go it started spitting and sputtering after a turn. Started babying it, then when I was slowing down to turn into my drive way it died and i just coasted in the rest of the way. Cranked it and let it idle for about 15 seconds and it was down again. I could not have planned that better if i tried.

Honestly though, after the corner I figured i was going to get home at the end of a strap.
 
Well, tried changing out the lift struts on the back glass, can't figure out how they come off, probably just going to cut them in the morning.

Found a Haynes manual in a milk create in the back, looking at the diagram of the vac lines looks pretty nightmarish. Went outside to start comparing and teaching things and i found 2 problems so far, when the PO installed the headers he disconnected the EGR but left the bottom port wide open.


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I don't have a clue weather it even still works or not but I am going to try and plug it, maybe try to find some block of plates and just eliminate it all together.





Second is that when the Webber was installed the vac lines for the advance on the distributor are just teed of and going to the same signal so i am getting no timing advance.

I had planned on leaving the emissions intact on this thing, but i guess with the Webber it would be a lost cause anyway. Gonna read up on desmogging a 2F the right way (if that is not a contradiction in terms ;) )

Well, its getting dark. Guess I am gonna shut it down for the night.

P.S. Check out the awesome stuff in this fuel filter! Apparently a 2F will run on just about anything that will burn i guess.



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Good to see you motivated bud :cheers: thats the right way to start a project make the subtle mods that improve the mechanics and reliability so you can enjoy it. We all want to get our rigs in trail ready mode but sometimes we rush and look back and wish we went a differet route we've all been there. I think the 4-Runner went from streetable with 33's to an extreme trail rig that wasn't and you missed having a rig that could do both. Thats not a bad thing and now you can have both :D The 60 is going to be nice on or off the trail :)

On a side note your next mod should be that custom plate :lol: Call Me Big Papa

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Sorry, meant to cancel, hit send. Well edit and report once I can take pictures of what I want to ask about rather than try to describe it.
 
Finally got back to a platform that I could call cruiserparts.net about my tank and having not recieved the shipping notification. The tank they first pulled was in his words "baddly rusted inside" and the second tank they pulled had been drained when the owner had parked it so the fuel would not go bad and had "rust dust" in it from just sitting and the humidity. Said there was absolutely 0 scale rust in it and that they would knock 20% off the price since I would probably have to change fuel filters just to catch the rust dust...


Went ahead and told them to ship it too me along with the other stuff I need for the truck but it wont be getting here till monday at the earliest so wont be able to drive it to the crawfish boil. :(


I have been reading the haynes manual and I have noticed something that may be a problem. On the side of the tank there are several vacuum ports that are just open, aparently they go to a "Fuel Vapor Separator" and then that goes to the charcoal canister to vent the tank. But like I said there are no lines going to it so I am wondering how the tank is actually getting vented now. Is the massive suction I have on the tank actually because the tank is not propperly vented and the reason that the JBweld patches failed because the tank flexed due to vacuum and as soon as the leaks allowed enough air in to equalize the pressure then the fuel leaks started again though the now cracked JB Weld. When i drop the tank going to have to check it out and posibly just run a new vacuum line directly to the canister.
 
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These are the fittings I was talking about that I belive are supposed to be the tank vents leading to the vapor separator.

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Josh, the 40's have a similar set up. I have the vent ports on the tank just capped and mine vents through a vented gas cap. The charcoal canister and the fuel separator were missing from the rig when I got it. I was going to put it back in but can't find a good reason to do it.
 
Problems I ran into with my 40's if you did away with the vent system and just capped it you would get the smell of gas faintly on the passenger side but it was worse with the hard top on so I vented it back to charcoal like factory on the 78 but on the 67 and 70 there is only one vent line off the tank and I ran it to a T on the firewall with the diff vent. I'd recommend at least one vent line or a good vent cap like Mike suggested. I definitely would not leave them open :)
 
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Found some stuff that has temporarily patched the gas leak. I think it was called "seals-all" if it gets me to the crawfish boil and back I will call it good enough :) that and a new vented gas cap from NAPA and hopefully I am good.

Note I am in lake Arthur waiting to get my new shoes put on.

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Looking good. Those tires look like the dames one we have on the HD. Super quiet. Love them. They are rated for 90,000 on a 2500. So ya should get plenty life, I'd they are what I think.

Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Looks great bud looking forward to seeing it Sunday :)
 
Mee too.

Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

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