Building my 93 FZJ80. (2 Viewers)

[wpns4l]

And one last project before bed. Removed the alarm system and some other random aftermarket wiring that wasn't going to anything.

 

[wpns4l]

Almost a year later and the engine is back in.

 

[wpns4l]

Well, I thought tonight might be the night I get to try to start it but as I was adding oil I had a large spill. At first I thought my upper oil pan was maybe leaking but I had the wife pour while I was under the vehicle and its coming from behind the harmonic balancer. I look in my parts case and what do I find? The front mail seal sitting in its packaging.

I had put the HB on to check my timing marks as seen a couple post back and I forgot to take it back off to seal it and ended up torquing it down yesterday. Im done for the night but tomorrow I am gonna attempt to change it out without removing the radiator as I literally just filled it in preparation for starting.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Man long repair! But good job following thru! Do you have a holder tool for the harmonic balancer? We have all forgot something on a Huge job like this. Great work and keep it up you’re so close to the end. Motivational pic for the front main seal just put one in Last week a 2” pvc or abs hard cap are a perfect seal driver. Obviously pic is with seal not installed.

 

[wpns4l]

Yea I have the HB holder. I could have sworn I put a new seal in and that the one sitting on the work bench was just an extra but I guess I was wrong. Plus looking at some recent photos I took before putting the HB on to check timing marks I can see it doesn't have a seal.

 

[wpns4l]

First start

 

[wpns4l]

Idling at 2k right now but I haven't adjusted timing or anything yet so hopefully that's all that is.

 

[wpns4l]

Well now I have the opposite issue. Before tear down I couldn't adjust past 0tdc before reaching the distributor max adjustment.

Now I can't adjust less than 10btdc before reaching the max adjustment the opposite way.

I'm not off a tooth or anything as if I adjust the distributor a tooth in either direction then it's way off.

Not sure what else there is to do other than maybe try a different distributor.

 

[wpns4l]

Thinking about it more I'm gonna check that the throttle cable is properly adjusted and not to tight and slightly open. I did mess with it taking it on and putting it back on.

 

[wpns4l]

Timing fixed



My cruise control cable was to tight holding the throttle open. Adjusted it and the throttle cable itself and now I'm right at 3btdc, right in the middle of the distributors range of motion and idling at 700rpm.

 

[ppc]

Did you jumper the two terminals in the Diagnostic Connector to set the ECM in base mode before you checked timing?

 

[wpns4l]

replaced the seat gears today. Passenger side is working good. The driver side not sure what is going on. It was working with the new gear and then started acting like the new gear was stripped again. Not sure if I put to much grease or what. Have to pull the seat again and tear it all down to take a look. At least for now though its stuck in the furthest back position so I actually fit vs the closest position it was in.

Tomorrow is replace all the soft brake lines and MC and take it for a drive finally.

 

[wpns4l]

Replaced all the soft lines today with new/extended lines and replaced the MC. Bled the system twice and went for a drive. Pedal is softer than I would like but the car stops fine and can lock up the wheels. Just more pedal travel than I would like. I am gonna probably bleed it a couple more times and check the calipers and bearings. I eventually want to replace the disc, calipers and pads but am hoping what I have is good enough that I can put it off for a bit to take care of home projects that need done first.

 

[cruzinfj1]

Replaced all the soft lines today with new/extended lines and replaced the MC. Bled the system twice and went for a drive. Pedal is softer than I would like but the car stops fine and can lock up the wheels. Just more pedal travel than I would like. I am gonna probably bleed it a couple more times and check the calipers and bearings. I eventually want to replace the disc, calipers and pads but am hoping what I have is good enough that I can put it off for a bit to take care of home projects that need done first.

I had the same thing after redoing mine. I did new lines, ABS delete, and booster/master and didnt like the pedal after 5 or 6 times bleeding them. If you have time, try a gravity bleed on them. Started on the pass rear, to driver rear, pass front, and then driver front. I got the pedal feel that I was looking for. Takes some time, and dont let the master run out or youll be starting over... lol

 

[wpns4l]

Today's adventure was keys. So when I bought this it came with one key and it only works in the ignition. After some searching of the forums about key cylinders I saw some people have success with getting new keys made.

So Toyota made me a key and I get home and it doesn't work in any of the doors or the ignition. It's also vastly different than my key, even though mine is worn down.

So I pull the passenger side door apart and take the cylinder in and they said it's the same code as off the vin and the key they made. Take it back home and dump a ton of wd40 in it and finally get it to work.

Great I think, let's do the same to the driver side. Get the door apart and the cylinder is an aftermarket one and you can see my new key doesn't make the pins lineup.

So I go to Toyota again and they confirm it's aftermarket and that on Tuesday and Thursday they have a locksmith who comes in and can rekey it to my new key for me. They also recommend I take out the ignition cylinder so he can do that one too.

So that's next week's goal along with more brake bleeding.

 

[wpns4l]

Dash and door apart and all cylinders removed to get rekeyed tomorrow. Also replacing bulbs and removing abs bulb for the delete I did.

Some really good videos on YouTube for dash removal. Not as hard as I thought it would be..... Especially when you're missing like 50% of the screws lol.