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Building Exhaust System

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by cajunqueen, Feb 13, 2004.

  1. cajunqueen

    cajunqueen

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    Ok guys, my local exhaust shop is a one man operation and he is in the hospital indefinitely. The exhaust is the only thing between my cruiser (1.5 year not running project) and the snow covered roads. So, I am going to try to build an exhaust system myself. I have a '63 with the centered difs and a 350. Has anyone built their own system for a similar setup. Single or double doesn't matter. I have no headers just manifolds. I would love to know what type, lengths pipe you bought, how it was routed, etc. If you have pics and places to shop for parts that would be fantastic. Pics would be most helpful as I am a woman and everyone knows we don't have spacial minds. Basically, it would help me to see it first b/4 I do it. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. mancinator

    mancinator

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    heres what i woudl do
    cut 8 holes in your hood
    run 8 pipes from exhaust ports thru hood
    start engine and roll hard :D

    that didnt help much....but it would be easy and kinda fun!
     
  3. dd113

    dd113

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    I am sure there is a kit out there from MAF or Downey that is a bolt on for a 40/350 conversion. You can get damn complicated on this issue with crossover pipes and H pipes etc... Simple and effictive would be to come down from the maniflolds and bend back above the frame rails with one pipe on each side of the tranny/TC and carry them back to 2 small mufflers just in back of the TC eventualy exiting in back of the rear tires just a few inches in ft of the shackles.

    I would find another exhaust shop to do the work if your local guy is down. Exhaust is like plumbing, sure you can do it but about 2 hours into it you wished you hired a pro.
     
  4. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I'm with David on this one. I'll rebuild the engine or tranny, but I don't have the tools to do the exhaust. Pipe benders aren't generally available for rent either as they don't fit in the trunk of a car very well! There must be a muffler shop somewhere nearby!?!
     
  5. cajunqueen

    cajunqueen

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    Well guys unfortunately I live in a little bitty town so there is no one else and I mean no one I have tried everyone. I do have a pipe bender though so I think I maybe can do this. Plus as I said this is the only thing keeping my cruiser off the road right now, so I don't want to wait forever for this guy to come back.
     
  6. xumFJ40

    xumFJ40

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    How small? Smaller than bute la rose(sp)?

    Good Luck.
     
  7. Ralphy

    Ralphy

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    Have just finished the system on my fj60 with an injected 308 , firstly if you have monifilds with a 2 bolt or 4 bolt flange then simple , Mine took me about a day , i done mine by buying mandrel bends and straight pipe , a good drop saw and an oxy set A MIG WELDER would be an advantage , youll need something to set angles with also ,, basicly start fron the front but plan where ya wann go first , work your way down making sur you have adequate clearances for heat , I still have original cruiser g'box and axles so i chose the passenger side for both pipes basicly ran one straight down and above the g'box crossmember the other runs down and under the back of the sump area then again over the g'box crossmember , after that i followed basicly the standard cruiser exhaust , i used 2 in pipes off the headders , into a 2/ 1/2 inch collector through a 2 1/2 in high flow cat and 3 inch from there on through a resonable muffler to keep the local cuntsables happy. I have some pics if your intrested send me your email address and il gladly send them
     
  8. cajunqueen

    cajunqueen

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    Ralphy, Thanks a bunch. My email is hk2r@nemontel.net Also, been doing some research what the **** is a heat riser? I am so stupid when it comes to exhaust, trying to learn everything all at once to get this job done. Thanks.
     
  9. theo

    theo

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    Heat riser is a flapper valve inside one of your pipes just after the manifold. It is held closed by a bi-metal spring that opens the valve as it warms up. The object is to prevent some heat from leaving during warmup on cold mornings; engine warms up faster with some restriction in the exhaust flow.

    They work but you can get by without it. Also, they corrode and seize up if you don't check them once in awhile.

    Check out Jack Rice's 350 conversion. He has a good photo of his exhaust, which is similar to what Ralphy is saying.
    http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~jrice/cruiser/FJ40.html

    One thing you don't want is what I chose - my pipes leave the manifold on each side and pass outwards UNDER the frame to mufflers under the running boards. Majorly dumb since the first rock I land on will crush them! Need to change that before summer.
    :)
     
  10. Rice

    Rice SILVER Star

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    I agree with Theo ... run the pipes down from the manifold and run inside the frame rails.

    If it's really killing you and you HAVE to get your ride on the road (I do understand the feeling), I would suggest just putting on a "turndown" pipe after the mufflers like you've probably seem on some cameros and such rather than having them exit out the side or the back. Then, once your pipe guy get's his health back he can pull off the turndown pipe and finish the job from there back.
     
  11. tewlman

    tewlman

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    don't those snow covered roads you so long to travel lead to other towns? towns with muffler shops maybe?

    Tow it somewhere and let a pro do, hast can be a terrible thing sometimes.