Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (7 Viewers)

[DangerNoodle]

Those rear sills were such a poor design from Toyota. They invite rust. Some people just modify a single piece of square tube. That's what aqualu does on their tubs too. Have u thought about using the bud built quarter panels?

I don't think that the quarters need to be replaced quite yet. They arent rusted, and only the back half of the driver was really smashed.

That rear sill is a bad design. How does aqualu deal with the body mounts in the square tube?

 

[White Stripe]

I don't think that the quarters need to be replaced quite yet. They arent rusted, and only the back half of the driver was really smashed.

That rear sill is a bad design. How does aqualu deal with the body mounts in the square tube?

You could drill a hole from top to bottom and just use long bolts, but the bolt head you would see. That's what aqualu does. But I've also seen people just cut square access holes on the back side of the tube and just the bottom is drilled and short bolts are used. Then the bolts are hidden. Then just a thick rubber or poly washer is used between the frame. Basically generic body mounts. You also have to notch the tube for the weatherstripping channel. You can just cut the corner out, flip it, and weld it back in for a weatherstripping channel.

 

[Bripars40]

I would recommend using hole saw and recessing the bolts. I’ve done it on one side and need to buy another hole saw. Excuse the dirt I still haven’t cleaned up from my last trip.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I would recommend using hole saw and recessing the bolts. I’ve done it on one side and need to buy another hole saw. Excuse the dirt I still haven’t cleaned up from my last trip.

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How do you keep water/dirt out of there and maintains the doors? Or do you not run doors?

 

[Bripars40]

How do you keep water/dirt out of there and maintains the doors? Or do you not run doors?

I have some 2” body plugs that I plan to use in those holes. It’s 1/4” tube steel so I’m not really worried about it rusting. Also the tube is open on both ends so I just run some water through there to clean it out.

It’s definitely not a show truck.

 

[DangerNoodle]

It’s definitely not a show truck.

That's where I am with this. I just can't stand seeing people do s***Ty work, like the inch+ of bondo on that rear panel. I'm not too worried about rust right now, but I want to do stuff right.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Well, it's official, this truck is getting a 383 stroker. We finalized the rebuild plans today, so the engine should be rebuilt soon.

 

[DangerNoodle]

It's been a while since I last updated.

Lots of small things have been done.

I got the other side wheel well finished.

I finally got some body hammers and dollies, it makes beating panels so much easier.

I also started stripping more of the body. A grinder and 80 grit disks make it a piece of cake.

The doors are in amazing shape. Very light surface rust in a few spots, but that is it. No dents or scratches in sight.

I am also in the middle of replacing the rear sill, so the ambulance doors are partially on for alignment.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I also got the hood cleaned up. A few minor dents, but no rust or major problems.

 

[mrboatman]

Nice work @DangerNoodle

 

[DangerNoodle]

Nice work @DangerNoodle

Thanks!

 

[White Stripe]

It's been a while since I last updated.

Lots of small things have been done.

I got the other side wheel well finished.

View attachment 2294741View attachment 2294745

I finally got some body hammers and dollies, it makes beating panels so much easier.

I also started stripping more of the body. A grinder and 80 grit disks make it a piece of cake.

View attachment 2294746View attachment 2294747

The doors are in amazing shape. Very light surface rust in a few spots, but that is it. No dents or scratches in sight.

I am also in the middle of replacing the rear sill, so the ambulance doors are partially on for alignment.

View attachment 2294748

Be careful when doing the rear sill. The quarters can bow outward. Yours look like they may have slightly looking at your ambulance door gap. May have to ratchet strap back to 90 degrees and tack in a temporary brace on the top of the tub somewhere. Or maybe it's just the doors drooping since they only have one hinge. Hard to tell from a picture.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Be careful when doing the rear sill. The quarters can bow outward. Yours look like they may have slightly looking at your ambulance door gap. May have to ratchet strap back to 90 degrees and tack in a temporary brace on the top of the tub somewhere. Or maybe it's just the doors drooping since they only have one hinge. Hard to tell from a picture.

It's the hinges drooping. I squared the tub before starting on the sill to make sure I had everything in the right place. The tub is fully braced right now.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I pulled all the glass from the hardtop and the rear doors. It honestly wasnt too bad.

The cage showed up from metaltech. Ill tack it together when I get the top on.

I also started stripping the rear ambulance doors. One went to South America to get fixed.

The other was mangled by a monkey with a welder.

 

[DangerNoodle]

The door attacked by the monkey was an easy fix.

The other side is going to be more difficult. Im not sure how I'm going to pull the dents with no access to bang on it.

 

[Pierps]

I used eastwood's mig gun stud welder kit for pulling out dents like you're describing.

Stud Welders

Pull out sheet metal dents without weakening the panel by using a stud welding gun or an Eastwood welder stud welding attachment kit.

www.eastwood.com

It works ok, the only problem is that you have to use vice grips to tighten the collet on the slide hammer enough for it to hold onto the studs while you hammer.

I guess another option is to just buy the studs and a slide hammer, and manually hold the studs while you weld them on.

 

[cbmontgo]

Great progress! Will look forward to checking it out soon.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I used eastwood's mig gun stud welder kit for pulling out dents like you're describing.

Stud Welders

Pull out sheet metal dents without weakening the panel by using a stud welding gun or an Eastwood welder stud welding attachment kit.

www.eastwood.com

It works ok, the only problem is that you have to use vice grips to tighten the collet on the slide hammer enough for it to hold onto the studs while you hammer.

I guess another option is to just buy the studs and a slide hammer, and manually hold the studs while you weld them on.

That looks like it would work ok. I honestly may just cut it out so I have access to dump rust converter into the bottom and then seal it back up. Lots of options here.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Great progress! Will look forward to checking it out soon.

It's going. I am still waiting for my engine so I can mount the front axle. It's taking forever, but it's going to be a great engine. Hopefully it will be running soon. I am not looking forward to wiring this though. I hate electrical.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Big things happened today.

The top went on for the first time! It's really starting to look like a cruiser now.

The doors line up really well, which is great cause it's less work for me.

I started TIGing the rear sill together. First time doing steel, but I think it turned out ok.

Here is where I ended today. Going to tig the rest together when I get the chance.