Build Up "The Cucumber" (1 Viewer)

[joeyg1973]

Ok this is gonna be a build up of a 1971 FJ-40 which has been named "The Cucumber" by xjnation in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/236795-name-my-truck.html

2f from a '79

• GM 4.3 TBI driven by a MegaSquirt 2 Extra.
• A 3fe distributor to sense the crank position and send that back to the MegaSquirt 2 Extra which then directly drives a Ford wasted spark 6 pack.
• Knock detector
• WB-O2 sensor
• dual AFR tables so that I can throw a switch on the computer between normal and economy.
• CAM custom ground.
• Engine bottom end is balanced.
• ARP rod bolts for a Supra.
• Engine and head have been machined and are essentially brand spanking new.
• Man-a-fre tuned headers
• Cherry bomb

Future 2f mods

• Serpentine belt
• Eaton M90 Supercharger that can be turned on and off with a switch. (Almost all superchargers off production cars behave in this fashion... they have a vacuum actuated switch that bypasses the supercharger under low load. They really only kick in when you mash the pedal. Just need to change the vacuum actuated switch to a solenoid.)

Power Steering

• Steering gear from a IH Scout II
• electric power steering pump, driver, and control computer from an early to mid 90's MR2. It will give me variable power steering when I get it dialed in and I will have it wired so that I can have auto/computer controlled, HI, OFF. ( This will work fine and the pump puts out 2000 psi... more than any mechanical driven pump.)

Drivetrain

• Toyota LC 5 speed and transfer case, rebuilt
• Rebuilt 79 front and rear axles. Currently 3.73, will probably switch to the 4.11 that I have... depends on how it feels when it is all together.
• Monte Carlo disk brakes on rear with E-Brake.

Future Drivetrain

• Selectable lockers front and rear. Probably ARB as the Toyota E-Locker is probably more costly. Not like there is a lot of choices in the selectable locker category for the Land Cruiser.

Electrical

• Painless 18 circuit harness
• GM CS-144 140 amp alternator
• HID headlights
• LED lights everywhere else.

Cooling

• Ford Taurus fan

Future Cooling

• Electric water pump Davies, Craig EWP High Performance and Racing Electric Water Pump Kits

Bling

• Polished aluminum valve cover
• Polished aluminum water pump
• Polished aluminum Warn locking hubs
• Polished aluminum thermostat housing top and bottom
• Engine is painted POR-15 Ford Corporate Blue.
• Front and rear axles painted with POR-15 black.
• Bomber style guages. Gauge Product Selector

Suspension and tires

• Alcan in the near future.
• Parnelli Jones Dirt Grip 33x12.50
• F-250 Shock Towers.

 

[apbb2]

We need way more pictures than what is on the other thread.

 

[bandy rooster]

like the megasquirt, tricky and vast program to battle with ... and forced induction is always a neat one...


let the games begin

 

[zuluzeugma]

Use Megajizz V3.0... its way easier to work with... I PROMISE

 

[joeyg1973]

SOOO this whole project started a while ago before I even joined Mud. I bought a 71 that is solid and a 79 that had a fiberglass body on it and was kinda worn out. I was just gonna strip all the mechanical stuff off the 79 and put them in the 71. At least that was the plan until I stripped everything useful off the 79 and found it to be much worse than I even imagined. I should have known something was up when I discovered that the body was 5 inches off of center and was attached in places to the frame with wood screws.

Anyway I took everything off of it and decided it all needed to be rebuilt first. The rusted out frame and terrible fiberglass body was sent off to the wrecker. That is when the scope creep started to settle in. It started with wanting fuel injection, but not wanting to use a GM computer and grew from there.

So I started out with a pre-built MegaSquirt 2 v3.0. MegaSquirt - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. When I got it I decided to use the MS2/Extra code MS2/Extra Manual Index rather than the standard MS2 code as it gave me more flexability in what I could do. I am going to use a standard GM/Rodchester 4.3 liter Throttle Body, a 3fe distributor for crank postision sense, and let the the MS2/Extra handle the spark timing driving the coilpack off of a Ford EDIS-6. Ford EDIS - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This meant that I needed to make a few minor modifications to my standard MS2. First I needed to add a second VR ciruit. This documented here MS2-Extra Nippondenso CAS Manual and for more specifics of what I did, you can look here MSx/Extra EFI • View topic - New Drawings for the Nippondenso CAS

Second, I needed to wire up the MS2 so that it could directly fire each coil in the coil pack. That is documented here MS2-Extra Ignition Hardware Manual
I deviated from what is stated there in 2 ways. First, I bought this kit Glen's Garage and the 2 additional ignition circuits that I needed. Glen's Garage Second, I didn't eliminate the LEDs on the front to put in the DB15, I just cut a hole above the LEDs. I also did not eliminate the LEDs either... I thought it would be nice to have the LEDs blink when when they fired each coil.

I will attach pictures highlighting the mods I made shortly.

 

[zuluzeugma]

So I started out with a pre-built MegaSquirt 2 v3.0.

Gotcha

 

[fj40er]

we need pics.!!!

 

[watrob]

we need pics.!!!

I did'nt know you could take photos of dreams

1. You buy a Fj
2. You join MUD
3. You upload photo's
4. You tell us what your plans are, resto etc
5. Your wife gets all upset
6. You complain about how much this all costs
7. You upload more photo's
8. You ask for help & guidence
9. you complete the project
10. You marvel at what a great job you have done

It seems your gone straight to number 10

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

let the games begin

X2!!

It seems your gone straight to number 10

But at least you have me fooled on the fact that you have researched this all and know what you are talking about.
I am excited this sounds wicked can't wait to see it!!

 

[joeyg1973]

I did'nt know you could take photos of dreams

1. You buy a Fj
2. You join MUD
3. You upload photo's
4. You tell us what your plans are, resto etc
5. Your wife gets all upset
6. You complain about how much this all costs
7. You upload more photo's
8. You ask for help & guidence
9. you complete the project
10. You marvel at what a great job you have done

It seems your gone straight to number 10

Wow.. hey, see there is this thing that gets in the way of a hobby... it's called life. See I just bought a house, I have been using my parent's garage for now to do the work, I am getting an expansion put on the house now with a nice large tall 2 car garage, I got my jaw broken the first week of May and have been unable to do anything for most of the summer because I HAD A BROKEN JAW! I also had a girlfriend for the first half of the year and I would much rather play hide the salami with her than work on the FJ because again... it is a hobby, I just started this thread today because last Tuesday I had my last surgery to have all the plates and screws removed from my jaw. I now have free time again to work on this hobby, but that little thing called life may have to take priority over passivising you.

It will get done when it is done, no sooner, no later. I want to do it right the first time. This isn't the first FJ-40 I have built up but a lot of the stuff I am doing nobody has done on a FJ-40 before and a lot of it is new to me. So I want to crawl before I walk if that is OK with you.

Thank you

Oh... and go fxxx yourself!

 

[watrob]

Oh... and go **** yourself!

Alfred, to the Bat cave, quickly!

Ok, enough winding up,

We have all agreed, your Fj is going to be called "Rubber Band"

and I have entered it into my diary for the same time, same place next year for your report on your progress, look forward to some happy snaps.

 

[Rix86]

My corolla is running megasquirt n spark with EDIS.
nice easy crank fire ignition, and spare parts are dirt ass cheap.

 

[joeyg1973]

Ok here are some pictures. Mostly they are electrical diagrams of that I made to map out the circuit layout for the second VR sensor on the MS2's proto area.

The first drawing is looking down on the proto area with components in place and the traces. The second drawing is of the traces that I flipped so that you are looking from them bottom. This is important to note because the traces in this case are how you are going to sodier the comonent leads together on the bottom of the MS2. It's just a general map, I didn't follow it exaxtly because as we all know theory is often different from reality. The third drawing is of the circuit itself.

 

[joeyg1973]

Ok now for some real pictures.

1) is of the MS2 with all the added components. On the left on the cover is the ignition kit I got from Glen's Garage. It made it really easy to set up these circuits and at 20 bucks I suggest you go this route. I cut a hole for DB 15 right above the 3 led lights.

2) is a close up of the second VR circuit in the proto area. You can also see the 3 wires that are used to fire the 3 coil circuits.

3) is just a picture of the second VR circuit in the proto area from the bottom after I had finished it up.

 

[joeyg1973]

Picture of where I put the DB-15. Notice I did not put it where the LEDs are as is suggested in the MS2/Extra manual, I put it right above them.

 

[joeyg1973]

Pics of the relay board for the MS2 and my modifications to it. This is supposed to be put under the hood and connect back to the MS2 via the DB-37 connection. The relay box contains your fuses and relays and makes it easy to wire everything up. It should handle most under hood situations just fine, but this is a FJ-40 so I wanted to make sure it was sealed off from the elements. I went to my local electronics store... not Radio Shack... ask around there is an old school electronics store somewhere by you. I got an aluminum box that would fit the whole relay box in there and sealed up all the cracks with silicone. Silicone is your friend whenever you are trying to waterproof or insulate anything electical. I needed to create a permanant seal for the top out of silicone, but I wanted to be able to remove the top and not have to reapply the silicone. So I applied a thin layer of vasoline to the lid around the edge, put a thick bead of silicone on the box where it mates with the lid, let it dry a little bit, then put the lid on and screwed it down till it was about 1/8th away from touching the box.

Hole sawed the one end for the wires coming out/in. I have a gromet for this hole and once I run the wires through wrapped in heat shrink... more silicone.

Created an out port for the DB-37. I did it with a jigsaw and a drill. I didn't do the best job... but it is what it is and it works. Again, more silicone.

 

[joeyg1973]

And pictures of the relay board and case with the mods I made.

Spare (spr) 1, 2, 3, 4 on the MS2 are wired to pins 3,4,5,6 on the DB-37. On the relay board, these are wired to ground because 99% of people will never use these. You need to cut 3, 4, 5, 6 from the relay board, solder on some wires, and cover it all up with heat shrink to get these 4 wires available. Remember spare 1 is right now wired to the second VR circuit on the proto area on the MS2 so that is needed right away. Spare 2, 3, 4 will be used in the near future.

To make things easier and neater, I wired them to the small PCB that you see there with the screw down clamp connectors. I also wired the ground, power, and ign to this as well. I put all the extra screw down clamp connectors for future growth if necessary.

Photo of it all assembled minus the cover.

Photo of the MS2 connected to the relay board with the DB-37 cable I made. ...and yes that is my new snazzy iPhone 3G with IH8MUD.com on the screen for perspective.

 

[joeyg1973]

Pictures of the engine so far.

The valve cover there now is not the pretty polished one.

 

[joeyg1973]

1 more pic

 

[joeyg1973]

Actually does anybody have or know where I can get the electrical pigtail that will plug into the 3FE dist? You can see what I am talking about in the pictures above.