Builds Build Thread: Jim’s ‘55 (5 Viewers)

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Joined
Jul 4, 2023
Threads
4
Messages
49
Location
Seattle, WA
Starting here with my plans/ideas with hopes for comment from you who have gone before me.

I purchased my ‘55 in June, and have slowly been playing whack-a-mole with some must fix items, while also getting to know the rig and putting together my plan.

Baseline: 1974 FJ55 w X26,000 miles has been in continuous operation for entire existence. 226k?
2F motor (from a ‘76 according to an inspection by Land Cruiser Specialties out of Oregon City) that came with the rig) with 90 psi avg compression, no vac. lines, runs kinda rough but made it from Portland (purchase location) to Seattle via backroads: 230miles at 45-50mph without any major issues. No major oil leaks out of engine, but one leak out of mystery (to me) threaded stud on the side of the head between cylinder 4 and 5. I can get it up to 65 (57 on speedometer + rubber overdrive) but am afraid to keep it there for long.
H41 tranny (I think) with leak out front seal and bearings sound like they are shot. Tranny is VERY loud during normal operation- can’t hear engine running over tranny whine. I think H41 based on comments I’ve read- can’t get through an intersection without shifting to 2nd. Any way to tell for sure? Replaced slave cylinder first week I had it and master cylinder is failing now- need to order a new one.
Transfer case has leak out the back (I think). Oil comes out of speedometer cable and e-brake. Otherwise functions fine.

Factory differentials, axles, etc. shocks look super worn.
Power steering has play in middle, but otherwise functional. Shock on this looks super worn also
Drum brakes seem to work fine. Have not opened them up to see remaining wear.
Factory springs
33’s on nice rims
No lift as far as I can tell-plus 33s rub on far ends of turn radius.
All fluids needed replacement. Some grease fittings don’t want to take more grease so I’ll need to work on that.
Exhaust must have been rebuilt at some point b/c it is solid.
Body- one of the main selling points: rust in the normal worst spots-back/bottom of front fenders, bottoms of some doors, running boards, but nothing on the roof/drip rails, and body mounts are solid. Original is Red/White, but the matte tan is honestly growing on me.
F/R Bumpers are aftermarket custom and one of my favorite mods- pretty sure they are 1/4” plate, and the welded on D rings are pretty tough.
Interior- front had two trashed seats with non-functional lap belts, so I found some seats with integral shoulder belts (BMW convertible- all others seem too big/plush for the ride-looking at you, GM trucks). Dash has an aftermarket shell on the vinyl-not cracked but kinda deformed. Any ideas for giving that some new life or just replace it? Gauges all work. Heater core is good and I was able to re-build the blower motor. No interior carpet. Door panels are trashed. Ceiling liner is stained and torn in places, but overall not horrible. Overall mildew smell is just about right- it’s there so you know it’s an old car, but it doesn’t sting your nose. Back bench vinyl is torn but overall this seat is in decent shape.
Rear door window mechanisms are jammed/torqued to the point they don’t roll down, but rear tail gate motorized glass goes up/down (with assistance) from both the key in the tail gate and the switch on the dash.
Missing the 2 Toyota Land Cruiser badges on the fenders, and the big 4wheel drive badge on the tail gate. Otherwise all trim is in place.

Will follow up with initial build ideas.

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Starting here with my plans/ideas with hopes for comment from you who have gone before me.

I purchased my ‘55 in June, and have slowly been playing whack-a-mole with some must fix items, while also getting to know the rig and putting together my plan.

Baseline: 1974 FJ55 w X26,000 miles has been in continuous operation for entire existence. 226k?
2F motor (from a ‘76 according to an inspection by Land Cruiser Specialties out of Oregon City) that came with the rig) with 90 psi avg compression, no vac. lines, runs kinda rough but made it from Portland (purchase location) to Seattle via backroads: 230miles at 45-50mph without any major issues. No major oil leaks out of engine, but one leak out of mystery (to me) threaded stud on the side of the head between cylinder 4 and 5. I can get it up to 65 (57 on speedometer + rubber overdrive) but am afraid to keep it there for long.
H41 tranny (I think) with leak out front seal and bearings sound like they are shot. Tranny is VERY loud during normal operation- can’t hear engine running over tranny whine. I think H41 based on comments I’ve read- can’t get through an intersection without shifting to 2nd. Any way to tell for sure? Replaced slave cylinder first week I had it and master cylinder is failing now- need to order a new one.
Transfer case has leak out the back (I think). Oil comes out of speedometer cable and e-brake. Otherwise functions fine.

Factory differentials, axles, etc. shocks look super worn.
Power steering has play in middle, but otherwise functional. Shock on this looks super worn also
Drum brakes seem to work fine. Have not opened them up to see remaining wear.
Factory springs
33’s on nice rims
No lift as far as I can tell-plus 33s rub on far ends of turn radius.
All fluids needed replacement. Some grease fittings don’t want to take more grease so I’ll need to work on that.
Exhaust must have been rebuilt at some point b/c it is solid.
Body- one of the main selling points: rust in the normal worst spots-back/bottom of front fenders, bottoms of some doors, running boards, but nothing on the roof/drip rails, and body mounts are solid. Original is Red/White, but the matte tan is honestly growing on me.
F/R Bumpers are aftermarket custom and one of my favorite mods- pretty sure they are 1/4” plate, and the welded on D rings are pretty tough.
Interior- front had two trashed seats with non-functional lap belts, so I found some seats with integral shoulder belts (BMW convertible- all others seem too big/plush for the ride-looking at you, GM trucks). Dash has an aftermarket shell on the vinyl-not cracked but kinda deformed. Any ideas for giving that some new life or just replace it? Gauges all work. Heater core is good and I was able to re-build the blower motor. No interior carpet. Door panels are trashed. Ceiling liner is stained and torn in places, but overall not horrible. Overall mildew smell is just about right- it’s there so you know it’s an old car, but it doesn’t sting your nose. Back bench vinyl is torn but overall this seat is in decent shape.
Rear door window mechanisms are jammed/torqued to the point they don’t roll down, but rear tail gate motorized glass goes up/down (with assistance) from both the key in the tail gate and the switch on the dash.
Missing the 2 Toyota Land Cruiser badges on the fenders, and the big 4wheel drive badge on the tail gate. Otherwise all trim is in place.

Will follow up with initial build ideas.

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Initial Build Ideas: drive train

I’d like to replace the engine with modern Toyota option. I’d like this to be a daily driver/ mountain rig but not looking to do any crawling in it. Want to be able to go freeway speeds and hopefully get close to 20mpg.

I’m looking at JDM import engines but open to other suggestions. There is a 2Gr-FSE at the JDM importer nearby for $1500. This V6 makes 300 hp and 280 ft lbs. These impressive numbers are hit at higher RPMS, the ECU needs to be modified to work with a manual and it would also need a new flywheel and I’m not sure how it would fit against the firewall- still sorting this out. .

If I could find a low mile 2UZ-FE, I think I’d jump at that, based on the durability reputation.

Does anyone have experience with the JDM import engines? These JDM motors supposedly have less than 50k miles on them and that is enticing, but I’m hesitant at accepting this at face value.

And then there is the 5.3 liter GM. Any thoughts on finding low mileage options? I don’t really want someone else’s 150k motor if I’m building this to last a while.

I’m thinking of keeping the H41 tranny annd rebuilding it. The rebuild kit is anround $275 for seals and bearings. How difficult is the work? I’m also thinking of adding a gear vendor’s overdrive because that 4.11 differential really limits you on the freeway. The GV overdrive bolts onto the back of the transfer case so I would need to shorten the rear drive shaft about 12”. They point this out as an issue with short wheel base rigs, but I’m thinking it would likely be okay on a ‘55. I need to reach out to them to make sure I could get it in a configuration that will work with the Toyota transfer case. Anyone have experience with this? While it would only work in 2wd, I can’t imagine needing overdrive in 4x4. And it can be engaged between 3rd and 4th, which is a pretty big step in the H41.

The other reason I want to keep the H41 is this, and it’s the craziest idea I’ve got: I purchased a rear facing PTO from Mark’s Offroad, with the idea of making this rig a hybrid of sorts. Instead of using the PTO to add a winch or water pump, or run a portable mill off the back, my idea is to mount a Nissan leaf motor between the PTO and the rear drive shaft, and turn the drive train via this PTO. Have the tranny in neutral and I think it would work. I think there is enough room if I source the early three part motor/inverter/BMS Leaf motor (the EM61 if anyone is looking). Big feasibility questions would be can I fit all those parts under the rig, and could I break the battery pack down into (4) 150lb suitcase sized sections which could mount in the rear storage area and be removable for long trips. If I can make this work, I’d have a zero emissions daily driver (I live in town with a 6 mile commute so not really worried about range) but I’d have a fully operational gas motor for extended drives, and the only extra weight I’d be carrying is the 150lb leaf motor.

Have other ideas for the Interior, etc, but I think this is the first major challenge I have and am interested in feed back about motor and tranny selection, and will even entertain comments about my tree hugger e-drive idea.
 
Wow, lots of plans and looks like a solid body to work with.

A fellow on the 510 side of life has added a sport bike motor to the rear of a Leaf for a hybrid, no experience with the PTO to comment if that would be a viable EV input though?

:popcorn:
 
Congrats on the pig! I'm just out in the Issaquah/Preston and have lots of pig parts in case you're missing anything.

For engine options, I know someone with a rebuilt 1HZ that he'd be willing to sell. He also has a good H55F and split case he'd sell with it.
 
Starting here with my plans/ideas with hopes for comment from you who have gone before me.

I purchased my ‘55 in June, and have slowly been playing whack-a-mole with some must fix items, while also getting to know the rig and putting together my plan.

Baseline: 1974 FJ55 w X26,000 miles has been in continuous operation for entire existence. 226k?
2F motor (from a ‘76 according to an inspection by Land Cruiser Specialties out of Oregon City) that came with the rig) with 90 psi avg compression, no vac. lines, runs kinda rough but made it from Portland (purchase location) to Seattle via backroads: 230miles at 45-50mph without any major issues. No major oil leaks out of engine, but one leak out of mystery (to me) threaded stud on the side of the head between cylinder 4 and 5. I can get it up to 65 (57 on speedometer + rubber overdrive) but am afraid to keep it there for long.
H41 tranny (I think) with leak out front seal and bearings sound like they are shot. Tranny is VERY loud during normal operation- can’t hear engine running over tranny whine. I think H41 based on comments I’ve read- can’t get through an intersection without shifting to 2nd. Any way to tell for sure? Replaced slave cylinder first week I had it and master cylinder is failing now- need to order a new one.
Transfer case has leak out the back (I think). Oil comes out of speedometer cable and e-brake. Otherwise functions fine.

Factory differentials, axles, etc. shocks look super worn.
Power steering has play in middle, but otherwise functional. Shock on this looks super worn also
Drum brakes seem to work fine. Have not opened them up to see remaining wear.
Factory springs
33’s on nice rims
No lift as far as I can tell-plus 33s rub on far ends of turn radius.
All fluids needed replacement. Some grease fittings don’t want to take more grease so I’ll need to work on that.
Exhaust must have been rebuilt at some point b/c it is solid.
Body- one of the main selling points: rust in the normal worst spots-back/bottom of front fenders, bottoms of some doors, running boards, but nothing on the roof/drip rails, and body mounts are solid. Original is Red/White, but the matte tan is honestly growing on me.
F/R Bumpers are aftermarket custom and one of my favorite mods- pretty sure they are 1/4” plate, and the welded on D rings are pretty tough.
Interior- front had two trashed seats with non-functional lap belts, so I found some seats with integral shoulder belts (BMW convertible- all others seem too big/plush for the ride-looking at you, GM trucks). Dash has an aftermarket shell on the vinyl-not cracked but kinda deformed. Any ideas for giving that some new life or just replace it? Gauges all work. Heater core is good and I was able to re-build the blower motor. No interior carpet. Door panels are trashed. Ceiling liner is stained and torn in places, but overall not horrible. Overall mildew smell is just about right- it’s there so you know it’s an old car, but it doesn’t sting your nose. Back bench vinyl is torn but overall this seat is in decent shape.
Rear door window mechanisms are jammed/torqued to the point they don’t roll down, but rear tail gate motorized glass goes up/down (with assistance) from both the key in the tail gate and the switch on the dash.
Missing the 2 Toyota Land Cruiser badges on the fenders, and the big 4wheel drive badge on the tail gate. Otherwise all trim is in place.

Will follow up with initial build ideas.

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That's a sweet Con-Ferr Rack.
 
Is that rust on both A pillars? That is not an easy fix and I wouldn't want to put big money in the wagon until that was corrected. After the major body work was done, then sky's the limit on cool ideas.
 
Congrats! Nice rig👍🏼

Do you think you’ll do much traveling and wheeling, or mostly local commuting?
Mostly around town/ ski/ camping rig.
Is that rust on both A pillars? That is not an easy fix and I wouldn't want to put big money in the wagon until that was corrected. After the major body work was done, then sky's the limit on cool ideas.
The seal around the windshield, and all the glass, for that matter, is done and needs to be replaced. That said, most rust appears to be surface at this point, but to your point, it needs to be addressed before it gets worse. I would like to focus on the drive train first, and address the seals when addressing body issues, ahead of paint, but I’m definitely keeping an eye on it.
 
Congrats on the pig! I'm just out in the Issaquah/Preston and have lots of pig parts in case you're missing anything.

For engine options, I know someone with a rebuilt 1HZ that he'd be willing to sell. He also has a good H55F and split case he'd sell with it.
A diesel motor is definitely enticing, but at 130hp would it have any more get up and go than an F motor? The low end torque would be great, but I’d like to have some juice to cruise at highway speed. Anyone have experience with a 1HZ to comment?
 
I’ve got a 1HZ with H55 in my FJ62 with a low boost turbo. Plenty of power to suit my needs. Welcome to come give it a drive sometime if you want.
 
I’ve got a 1HZ with H55 in my FJ62 with a low boost turbo. Plenty of power to suit my needs. Welcome to come give it a drive sometime if you want.

I’ve got a 1HZ with H55 in my FJ62 with a low boost turbo. Plenty of power to suit my needs. Welcome to come give it a drive sometime if you want.
That would be great. I’d also love to get a look at your parts stockpile- see if there is anything I will need. I’ll PM you to figure out a day/time that works.
 
Not really part of the “build” but more like ongoing whack-a-mole: I have now sheared 2 rods between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork. I’m pretty sure it is due to the hex shoulders on the domed nut on the end of the rod digging its way into the clutch fork, and becoming locked in place, so that when the clutch is depressed, the rod cannot pivot easily. Both rods were bent and eventually sheared at the lock nut. The latest one has a lifetime warranty, so while I wait for the replacement, I figured I could try to come up with a solution. I cut out the bent section and welded the threaded end back onto the rod. Then I took a grinder to a gas flare fitting with male and female threads and reduced it down to something that would fit inside the hole in the clutch fork, and would give the domed nut something to push against/rotate within. With the shoulder of the female end of the flared fitting keeping the domed nut from falling out, and the previously male threads (ground off so it is the correct diameter) poking through the fork so it can’t fall out, this Macgyver solution seems like it will work, at least for the short term.

Before/after photo and photo showing flared seat are the prototype. I didn’t like how little shoulder was left so I fabricated a second one- which is shown installed. I left more of the nut end, which keeps the domed nut in place better, but still allows for rotation.

Has anyone else run into a situation where the hex shoulders of the domed nut starts digging into the clutch fork? Solution -aside from fork replacement?

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Is the slave cylinder misaligned? Is the clutch fork a non 55 part and the ball not fitting in the socket right? I've seen wear on clutch forks before, but never seen what you're describing. That's not saying much though, so it could be a common problem.
 
Is the slave cylinder misaligned? Is the clutch fork a non 55 part and the ball not fitting in the socket right? I've seen wear on clutch forks before, but never seen what you're describing. That's not saying much though, so it could be a common problem.
As far as I know, the clutch fork is stock to the H41 tranny. The slave cylinder is in line with the fork when the pedal is not depressed, but when you engage the clutch, the angle changes as the fork moves away-that is to be expected. The issue is the domed nut at the end of the rod is wedging itself into the fork and unable to pivot at all when the clutch is depressed, creating the bending, and eventually shearing forces.
 
Not really part of the “build” but more like ongoing whack-a-mole: I have now sheared 2 rods between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork. I’m pretty sure it is due to the hex shoulders on the domed nut on the end of the rod digging its way into the clutch fork, and becoming locked in place, so that when the clutch is depressed, the rod cannot pivot easily. Both rods were bent and eventually sheared at the lock nut. The latest one has a lifetime warranty, so while I wait for the replacement, I figured I could try to come up with a solution. I cut out the bent section and welded the threaded end back onto the rod. Then I took a grinder to a gas flare fitting with male and female threads and reduced it down to something that would fit inside the hole in the clutch fork, and would give the domed nut something to push against/rotate within. With the shoulder of the female end of the flared fitting keeping the domed nut from falling out, and the previously male threads (ground off so it is the correct diameter) poking through the fork so it can’t fall out, this Macgyver solution seems like it will work, at least for the short term.

Before/after photo and photo showing flared seat are the prototype. I didn’t like how little shoulder was left so I fabricated a second one- which is shown installed. I left more of the nut end, which keeps the domed nut in place better, but still allows for rotation.

Has anyone else run into a situation where the hex shoulders of the domed nut starts digging into the clutch fork? Solution -aside from fork replacement?

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Years ago I had a slave cylinder deploy on me.

I don't remember if I figured out what happened, I don't think I found all the pieces once I stopped rolling.
 

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