Build Thread for FJ80 Trailer. (1 Viewer)

[YMT]

Look into Sikaflex. I think that's what many have used on their 40 tubs when they stretch them for swapping to 80 chassis. Look in the hardcore corner

 

[racevws]

Here's a few more pictures for you all.

Things I found out:
I don't weld sheet metal very well, but that's because I don't prep well. I found out that I don't prep well.

Other things is that the gas tanks actually attached to the body of the car not the frame oh, so I waste some time looking into that.

Anyway things are coming along.

View attachment 2138482

 

[mingles]

Thanks for the update.

I love your initiative and originality in terms of part reuse. Keep up the progress.

 

[racevws]

I'm still planning on using the gas tank as a sort of reserve tank. One thing I'm going to do different than my original plan is to use a MUCH lighter weight frame to mount the trailer on, and use a trailer axle with brakes on it. I was planning on just using the frame like an old pickup trailer, but I ran into a couple of problems:
1: I sold my go-kart, so I have a trailer frame, that is registered in my name taking up room in my driveway
2: My State is kinda a PITA for home-made trailers. I asked a cop yesterday if I could just ditch the flatbed and mount the body on that and he said it would be fine.
3: Doing brakes on the trailer properly would be expensive and a PITA as well
4: I can have an extra axle laying around should I need it, and I will scrap the frame ( I already cut the S____ out of the front, so it's no longer usable (Changed my mind a little late on this one. ) Anyway, it will be closer to the setup seen posted earlier. I will likely weld on the factory mounts to the new trailer frame. As soon as I do that, and waterproof the thing, I can have my garage back again!

I will need to buy an axle with electric brakes, but that will only be around 400 bucks out the door. I do plan on using stock wheels for a more legit look. I still have a ton of bondo to do and little bit of welding, but I think I am getting closer by the day.

 

[racevws]

Okay, here's how far I've gotten so far. I finally got the frame pulled out from underneath the rear of the vehicle. I'm definitely going to ditch the super heavy rear axle and associated hardware for a lighter trailer axle. This is a very preliminary mock-up. I'll probably chop the frame at the third mount because that's the last one on my cab. I have some brackets to make. Probably going to upgrade the leaf springs and axle, especially to one with an electric brake.

 

[Broski]

If I was going to use it for gear or an RTT, I would cut it off just in front of the rear doors (B pillar), then find the rear section of another 80 and install another rear lift gate (Cut off in front of the "D" pillar) and tail gate on the FRONT. This way, I could open it up all the way front to back, or leave it open in the rear,

This is exactly what I was thinking having another hatch in the front of the trailer would be sweet. For me though having that trailer would eliminate the need of a roof-top tent be so much easier to get out and take a piss at night after drinking a bunch of beers then climbing out of a roof-top tent
If there was some way to retain the rear suspension by cutting all the mounts off the rear axle and putting them on a straight axle the rear suspension on an 80 Works real well off road. To me that would be a perfect setup just depends on how much work you want to do.

 

[BILT4ME]

You can also leave the FF rear axle on if it's a 93+ and remove the differential and axles, just plate the rear bearings and plug the spindle and your golden.

Keep the springs, shocks, control arms, etc, with less weight.

 

[racevws]

You can also leave the FF rear axle on if it's a 93+ and remove the differential and axles, just plate the rear bearings and plug the spindle and your golden.

Keep the springs, shocks, control arms, etc, with less weight.

There only issue for me becomes trailer brakes. I don't want to be in a situation where I'm getting a bunch of sway any no easy to control it. Straight electric brake are the way to go, IMO.

 

[BILT4ME]

There only issue for me becomes trailer brakes. I don't want to be in a situation where I'm getting a bunch of sway any no easy to control it. Straight electric brake are the way to go, IMO.

Sway is eliminated by correct tire pressures and even loading.

 

[chappysfj40]

very cool idea waste nothing.

 

[Road Apple]

One of my options would be a wheelchair ramp to go out the back and place the WC INSIDE the rear. They call them "Joey Lifts" This way, we could bring our son along and he would have everything he needs. The wheels and tires would HAVE to match the tow rig.

Your description is inspiring. Very cool idea !!

 

[Broski]

Sway is eliminated by correct tire pressures and even loading.

You are correct, but having ElectricTrailer brakes, if you do get into a situation where the trailer starts to sway hitting the truck brakes is the worst thing you can do, reaching down and applying the electric trailer brakes stops all swaying instantly the original poster obviously knows this And has experience towing trailers.

 

[BILT4ME]

You are correct, but having ElectricTrailer brakes, if you do get into a situation where the trailer starts to sway hitting the truck brakes is the worst thing you can do, reaching down and applying the electric trailer brakes stops all swaying instantly the original poster obviously knows this And has experience towing trailers.

Agreed, as do I.

 

[Broski]

Agreed, as do I.

Then you know that you don't load even , Your load should be tung heavy by 10 to 11 percent of gross trailer weight. I have been driving trailers for 45 years and learned on a 1958 Diamond Tee with a 40 foot low bed, moving Caterpillar D8 Dozers around that was in 1975 and I was 15.
Bilt4me Please don't miss understand me I not trying to be argumentative. I always enjoy vast knowledge and many posts. I currently own to trailers one of then is to get favorite toy to Wheeling events

 

[racevws]

I'm all about 11 percent tongue weight. And trailer brakes. If I have to stop fast, I would like some help from the trailer

 

[racevws]

Big day yesterday. Solid 10 hours of work. So the front mounting points are just a little modification to the frame setup. Actually worked out really well, alignment wise. Once the was done,. I pulled the trigger and cut off the front of the frame

 

[racevws]

Next was the rear mounts. I pulled into the garage too get some shade, and started fabricating. I wanted to use the existing hardware as much as possible, so I well that amount that fit the first suspension crossmember brace.

Since the other side doesn't have that brace I just had to make something that went straight from the trailer frame through the frame of the truck. For all the hardware on the truck side I just reuse the bolts that hold on the suspension pieces. Very stout.

 

[racevws]

The night before I took some Sikaflex after grinding down all my ugly welds and sealed off my front of the trailer. The stuff works really well apparently. I guess it's paintable after a while as well so that's what we're going to do next.

 

[racevws]

Next it's sketchy mate up time. I used a hand winch attached to the e-brake hole and the trailer to pull the frame in the cab together again. If I'd taken the gas tank off to do this, it would have been much easier and quite a bit less sketchy. I wanted the gas tank, however for a reserve fuel tank. Eventually I'm going to hook up a switch that's powered off of the 12 volt supply to allow for a fuel transfer. Anyway, I use a bunch of big timbers ahead laying around the house to prop up this and push up that and eventually got the thing mated

 

[racevws]

Okay, don't laugh. Eventually I'm going to get a heavier duty leaf spring as well as axle with trailer brakes. I have two spare rims that I can use, that match the stock rims. I hope that I can get that done sometime this summer. I'll post pictures of course.