(Build) Penelope the HDJ81 (1 Viewer)

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Beautiful rig... Looks like a good project to keep you busy between deployments.

In case no one has told you already, when you import her into the US, you might want to fill her up with all of the diesel specific consumables - oil& fuel filters, gaskets, hoses, etc... And maybe even some of the other consumables that may be harder to source in the US
Oddly, many parts have come from SOR. For the more uncommon stuff, I’ve gone with Japan4x4.
 
Been a long time since I was able to put some time in under the hood. Knocking out small items as I am able. Next on the chopping block was a PCV catch can and diff breather relocation (before I rebuild the axles).

Turbo has a decent amount of oil on the inlet and exhaust, but I am not burning any significant amount of oil, so I am assuming it is the coalescence of mist from the PCV. To that end, I installed a cheap catch can, which was similar in design to the HPD one, but cost a tenth of it. Like the HPD one, it was empty on the inside, which is rather ineffective. I augmented it with stainless steel mesh, folded and rolled. I was not comfortable with steel wool, as I can see it flaking off, mesh seemed much more durable.
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It conveniently says "OIL CATCH CAN" on top, just in case I forget what it is.
 
Before I rebuild my axle, I wanted to get the diff breather extension complete, which I had a chance to do. I chose to route the rear diff to the front, joining it just above the front axle with a Y fitting, then running it up to the top of the firewall in the engine bay. Don't mind the zip tie job, this was temporary fitting on the desired routing. Apparently, P clamps are not a standard hardware store item for Japan...
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Curley cue to allow for axle drop, bit more than the standard curl from Mr. T since I intend on lifting 2.5 inches. The rear wasn't such an issue, since the parking brake line moves down with the rear driveshaft already.

Some I have read about leave the tube bent over as I have, others put on a new Toyota breather. Arguments say the Toyota breather does not allow for negative pressure in the axle, leading to issues. Thoughts?
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Well, a less exciting post, but a big investment in the truck. I posted up about a leaking injection pump a while back, it was leaking from the top where the throttle cable arm was mounted. We decided to make the investment now, while we are in Japan and could take it to a local dealership that knew how to handle it. They pulled it, sent it to Toyota for rebuild, had it back in about a week. Also had them change the timing belt and tensioner while in there. Cost a pretty penny, but the truck runs significantly better now, I am guessing the pump was weak to begin with. Should last another 30 years now.

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Finally back and actually getting to drive the LC for a while, but mostly just getting it ready for export/import in a few weeks. Runs like a top after the IP was replaced, though they neglected to reset the idle after install, which had it sitting about 200 RPM low at best. Easily sorted though.

The other thing I had done while I was away was a full rebuild of the front axle, new brake rotors, and new pads. I had purchased the kit from Cruiser Outfitters, complete with the tools to do it myself. I have learned as I've gotten older that there is always a set of scales with time on one side, and money on the other. And right now with a good paying job that eats up all my time, and the relative value of family time, I chose to pay the local Toyota shop to do it for me. Cost around $450 in labor alone.

Anyways, pictures of shiny new things and dirty old things.

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Yes, these rims require large spacers to fit properly... I hate it, and will promptly replace them soon.
 
Removed the stock airbox yesterday, it was suffering from a good bit of rust. It had actually rusted all the way through on the side that sits against the wheel well. So I removed it, sanded the rust off, patched the hole with aluminum tape, and applied a few coats of paint.

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Spring time in Virginia is known as "the pollening". After fishing fallen tree flowers that were perfectly small enough to make it pas the cabin air "filters", I decided it was time for a solution. I have seen some on here retrofit an actual cabin air filter to the larger opening, but I had some fine stainless mesh in the garage, and this is effective enough for my needs.

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A 1/4 inch socket with screw driver bit was my best friend for removing the cowl.

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All wrapped back up, we'll see how well it lasts. May move toward an actual filter setup in the future, but this will do for now.
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The box of “parts I havn’t had time to install” is getting smaller. New MC, Slee stainless extended axle to chassis lines, refreshed brake fluid.
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Finally changed oil and filter again. Trying the Kirkland signature conventional 15w40 to see how my engines tick responds. Will update later.
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Been living with a failing head unit and a rats nest of wires from the previous owner. Today was the day to fix that, it was also 100 degrees out so why not sit in a black cab with no A/C?

Started tear down last night.

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On recommendations from threads here, I went with a budget ATOTO F7 EX. Has wireless car play, all I really need. So far pretty impressed with it, time will tell.

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Google translate was only required on a few wires that only had Kanji (Toyota side).

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TBC
 
Function test.
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Worked properly on first try, speakers still sound like trash, but that is another issue entirely.

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Fits like a glove. Had the added benefit of silencing a number of rattles that were driving me insane. A lot of the screws holding together the dash were not the correct size/pitch, so I got a bulk pack of #10’s from Autozone and replaced them. Made everything much tighter.

The car play upgrade is a game changer, makes it a much more pleasant ride. I’m not going to use the ATOTO to near its full potential I’m sure, but for now it is working great.
 
Function test.
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Worked properly on first try, speakers still sound like trash, but that is another issue entirely.

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Fits like a glove. Had the added benefit of silencing a number of rattles that were driving me insane. A lot of the screws holding together the dash were not the correct size/pitch, so I got a bulk pack of #10’s from Autozone and replaced them. Made everything much tighter.

The car play upgrade is a game changer, makes it a much more pleasant ride. I’m not going to use the ATOTO to near its full potential I’m sure, but for now it is working great.


It's weird. Our dash switches are in a different order.

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Got into the truck yesterday and the clock and new stereo were dead…frustrating. Pulled the dash again tonight to read wires, had low voltage on the constant power circuit. After reading a few threads on here, I started at the pax side battery and read forward. Thankfully I found the issue at the very next stop, the dome light fuse pictured above. Sorta blown, but not entirely.
 

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