Build: 74' FJ 40 (F.5) (1 Viewer)

[JohnnyC]

very little pressure

not like a fuel injection car if that what your thinking

 

[JohnnyC]

check connections on the engine...oil pressure sender is on the block about here

BTW are you near this bad boy ?

I have a thing for the general lol one day i will go and see it in person... it drove through Marietta on the chase is where they got on

 

[ATLTJ]

Haha, yes I am really close to the mountain. There is an "interpretive walk" in Kennesaw proper that has a pretty good documentation of the chase. Also Star Fort is located pretty close to there which is one of the more intact CW forts.

About the horn, I was wondering what that was for.... I just started tearing into the FJ40 last week and keep finding all kind of surprises the POs have left for me.

 

[ATLTJ]

Welcome. What month in ‘74? What’s the interior look like?

By the serial number it is a F.5 made in 11/1974

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

We’re very close then. I’m 0189996.

 

[ATLTJ]

We’re very close then. I’m 0189996.

0189106

 

[BeerM3]

Nice rig & welcome! That looks to be in really good shape, even if they left you a rats nest of wiring to figure out. Maybe you had the doors off and were getting around to it, but the rubber bumper of the door limiters should be on the back side of that oval cutout in the A pillar. That'll save you on a windy day.

 

[ATLTJ]

Nice rig & welcome! That looks to be in really good shape, even if they left you a rats nest of wiring to figure out. Maybe you had the doors off and were getting around to it, but the rubber bumper of the door limiters should be on the back side of that oval cutout in the A pillar. That'll save you on a windy day.

Good to know- I did not know what those were for yet.

 

[ATLTJ]

Updating the thread with the last few weekends work - I removed the VSV, so starting the desmog process. I changed out the distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs. I added a new coolant overflow bottle and hose. Found out that I have an electronic ignition in the dizzy. I took apart and cleaned the hazard light switch and running light switch. Removed the snorkel and replaced with a rectangular air cleaner on the weber. I took apart the instrument cluster and used a dremel with a wire brush to clean all the contacts and now have a functioning high beam indicator, ammeter, oil pressure gauge. Also found a major shorting issue near the fuse box. Still working to correct.

 

[KTM96]

Welcome to the club. Looks like a nice one to start with.

 

[ATLTJ]

Today's update- after cleaning out the connectors between the hazard switch/wiring harness and the turn signal switch/wiring harness I now have a functioning horn and turn signals!

Tomorrow its on to the brake lights and temperature gauge..

 

[ATLTJ]

Couple of questions after this weekend-

1. I cant get the differential fill bolt out, looks like the PO chewed it up at some point, and I made it worse this weekend. Before I break it off - any recommendations on how to get it out? Is that an area I can heat up with a torch?

2. In the picture below, is there supposed to be a cover here? I think this is the back of the flywheel

3. I replaced my fuel lines under the vehicle and found 3 fuel filters in the existing line. 1 should be enough just before the fuel pump right?

As always, thanks for the input!

 

[JohnnyC]

3. yes one filter is good
2. a rubber vent cover goes there... i think Kurt @cruiseroutfit has that.... other vendors as well
1. the drain or fill? usually the drain is bashed

 

[ATLTJ]

@JohnnyC thank you for the quick reply. The fill in this case. I wanted to make sure it would open before I opened the drain..

 

[ATLTJ]

Quick update from the weekend. I set the idle speed to 650 RPM and set my timing to 10* BTDC since my smog gear has all been removed.

For the serpentine belt - is there a way to adjust pulleys front or back so the belt can line up straight? In looking at getting a new belt I found that the steering pump does not line up correctly.

 

[ATLTJ]

Updating the thread-
*I performed the valve timing procedure that everyone referenced on here, took about 90 minutes.
*Replaced the front and rear gaskets on the transfer case
*Changed front and rear differential fluids
*Changed the oil
*Added a Temp Gauge and a tach
*Cleaned the connector on the rear of the instrument cluster which brought back my turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, fuel gauge, temp gauge, and oil pressure
*used a vacuum gauge and set timing to 18btdc at max vacuum. ,
*greased all the points I could find

 

[ATLTJ]

*also replaced the ebrake

 

[gericurl]

By the serial number it is a F.5 made in 11/1974

View attachment 1972653

My truck is also an 11/74. Maybe separated at birth and a lot of miles.

 

[ATLTJ]

My truck is also an 11/74. Maybe separated at birth and a lot of miles.

Just looked through some of your pictures- great job on the paint!

 

[ATLTJ]

3. yes one filter is good
2. a rubber vent cover goes there... i think Kurt @cruiseroutfit has that.... other vendors as well
1. the drain or fill? usually the drain is bashed

@cruiseroutfit do you have a part number for this cover?