Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR (2 Viewers)

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This is an amazing build, I would love to have the space you do. Keep up the great work.
Can't wait to see it finished.
I will definitely be copying some details from your front bumper for my build.
 
Just replaced my alternator on my 2010 tundra 5.7. Total “bi$Th” to get out. Thought I would share. Have to remove PS pump to access hidden bolts. Lots of mechanical gymnastics. Have a look to see it easy to remove in your layout. Alternator needs to pull toward PS before it comes out from front. Hope you have room to do this. You may have thought about this already 😁.
 
awesome awesome awesome thread
 
I took some cheap foam and rolled it up and stuff it inside each of the center 4 and 4 rear springs in drivers seat base. Then i put the cover on and stuffed the voids between all the springs with 2 bags of polyfill from Hobby Lobby. Too firm. No give really. Better than no polyfill in my opinion, but Im going to take half the polyfill out next week and see if that is any better.

How close are you to actually painting, are you going to wire and get it running and driving around before paint?

Thanks for the advice.

I'm ready to paint at any time. I just hate bodywork so much that I keep finding other small tasks that can be done before or after paint. But I reckon I should get on it before summer arrives.

If this was my first rodeo I'd be more inclined to hook everything up and make sure it works before paint, but it's soooo much work that would need to be undone to paint and line the inside I just don't see the benefit. I have a lot of confidence this will run and drive how I want so I'll just push forward.

This is an amazing build, I would love to have the space you do. Keep up the great work.
Can't wait to see it finished.
I will definitely be copying some details from your front bumper for my build.

Thank you. Having space and the right tools makes it fun instead of work.

I enjoy following along with your build as well.

Just replaced my alternator on my 2010 tundra 5.7. Total “bi$Th” to get out. Thought I would share. Have to remove PS pump to access hidden bolts. Lots of mechanical gymnastics. Have a look to see it easy to remove in your layout. Alternator needs to pull toward PS before it comes out from front. Hope you have room to do this. You may have thought about this already 😁.

I appreciate it, I had not thought about that. I'll take a look tomorrow.

awesome awesome awesome thread

Thank you!
 
If this was my first rodeo I'd be more inclined to hook everything up and make sure it works before paint, but it's soooo much work that would need to be undone to paint and line the inside I just don't see the benefit. I have a lot of confidence this will run and drive how I want so I'll just push forward.
Boy I wish I had your experience! I'm in the camp of building it all up to the point of running, then tearing it all down, paint, then final assembly
 
I was able to convert my full auto transfer case to full manual.

Removing the actuators -

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This is what the shift rods look like coming out of the case. The bottom one is Hi Low and the top is Front Drive -

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I did need to cut down and trim the actuator box though, being that it retains the 3 seals -

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I ground the teeth off of each rod to have a smooth pivoting surface -

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Making the linkage -

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Mounts for the cables -

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It works!

 
I was able to convert my full auto transfer case to full manual.

Removing the actuators -

View attachment 2993890

This is what the shift rods look like coming out of the case. The bottom one is Hi Low and the top is Front Drive -

View attachment 2993891

I did need to cut down and trim the actuator box though, being that it retains the 3 seals -

View attachment 2993892

View attachment 2993893

I ground the teeth off of each rod to have a smooth pivoting surface -

View attachment 2993895

Making the linkage -

View attachment 2993898

Mounts for the cables -

View attachment 2993899

It works!


I bet it was fun drilling holes through those rods
 
Awesomeness!!! Where did you source your cables? Needing a source for a 40 rear ebrake conversion on a 70 series axle using stock 40 handbrake handle
 
I was able to convert my full auto transfer case to full manual.

Removing the actuators -

View attachment 2993890

This is what the shift rods look like coming out of the case. The bottom one is Hi Low and the top is Front Drive -

View attachment 2993891

I did need to cut down and trim the actuator box though, being that it retains the 3 seals -

View attachment 2993892

View attachment 2993893

I ground the teeth off of each rod to have a smooth pivoting surface -

View attachment 2993895

Making the linkage -

View attachment 2993898

Mounts for the cables -

View attachment 2993899

It works!


Damn. Not many guys here making the mods that you do. Well done, expert level.
 
Moving to the rear E locker... Same idea.

This is all that's left after I butchered the stock actuator -

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Seal on the back -

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This is the selector rod that will need to be modified -

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Not enough surface area with the gear teeth removed, so I welded on a pivot point -

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Setting up the linkage -

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Mounting cable -

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It works well -

 
Awesomeness!!! Where did you source your cables? Needing a source for a 40 rear ebrake conversion on a 70 series axle using stock 40 handbrake handle
Screenshot_20220428-135720_Kindle.jpg


That's the order form I used, but if you go to their website, they have E brake cables.
 
Just checking in... no progress on URJ45 as of lately. I have been busy with some other projects and haven't tackled the bodywork yet. I'm still itching to finish it though, and it makes me sad every time I walk past it in the shop.

We have been out having fun as much as we can. We escaped the heat for a while and drove through Utah, Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho -

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We made time to stop by the Land Cruiser Heritage Museum in SLC which was amazing -

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Also had to say goodbye to my most loyal friend and shop buddy Onyx. She had a great life and got to see more things and places than most people get to. I'll sure miss her.

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We did pick up a new puppy last week. Hoping she'll be even half as good as the last one. This is Callie -

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I've been prepping these two buggies for an upcoming Rubicon trip. Should be fun!

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I did get a large cooling system installed in the shop last weekend, so it will be much more bearable to make some progress on the 45 here soon. Thanks for being patient!
 
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So sorry about your pup. I just finished reading your whole UZJ40 thread and now this one. What a great life that dog lived!
 
Still working on the house add-ons with all my free time. A buddy called an asked if I needed any 37's. Being that's the size I originally wanted, I jumped on the deal. They have 300 miles. I got them mounted yesterday and they really changed the look of the 45

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I did like the 35's, but they just looked too small for my liking. I don't think having 42" tires on all 3 buggies in the shop helped...
 
When I first started my 45 project, I wanted it to go quickly. It definitely...... hasn't. Since I've started it, we sold our house, rented a house, bought our current house, remodeled it, built a shop, changed careers, and lots of other projects that take up lots of time.

Each time I get to work on it, I usually spend a few solid months and get a lot done. I feel like I'm so close now, that this last push will really finish it up for me.

So here are a few pictures of projects that have kept me busy since the last big push -

The biggest project so far has been adding on to the house. We added on both sides, and did everything ourselves except concrete and stucco. Between plumbing, framing, sheeting, roofing, electrical, plumbing, insulation, drywall, flooring, tiling, etc... it has taken all of our free time for about the past 6 months. We are extremely close to being finished though, and I'm looking forward to being able to move a lot of my tools back into the shop from the house.

Master bath / closet side -

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Laundry room -

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Plumbing -

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Inspector -

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Ready to pour -

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Tearing into the house -

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