Thanks, now I have learned something too. Might be another small milestone in my never-ending quest to reduce noise!
Build - 1978 Mustard: Refresh & Updating (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 78Mustard
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks, now I have learned something too. Might be another small milestone in my never-ending quest to reduce noise!
- Thread starter
- #22
I feel like I really want to do that...but the amount of effort to get the emblem off is what's preventing me, currently. I'm sure I'll get around to it and appreciate you giving me the appropriate white color!
Goldbug
SILVER Star
I did my front emblem and it wasn't hard to take off. I tilted the grille, but there were only a few bolts/screws holding it on (some had fallen off long ago). I believe I used Wimbledon white, which I don't actually think is 100% right. I'm sure it's been discussed extensively on here somewhere, but the OEM front emblem has a bit of a cream color to it, not as white as the bezel.
What supplier did you go with for the insulation under the CityRacer mat?
- Thread starter
- #24
Looks good! I definitely need to do this.
I'll have to run out today and look to see how challenging this looks to be; trying to knock out painting my wheels the next few days so will see if I can get both of these done.
For the sound/heat insulation I just went through Amazon - Amazon product ASIN B016QUS1YE
Love the process. Thanks for sharing.
Goldbug
SILVER Star
I used frog tape and a new razor blade with good success for the emblem. Taped off the chrome, sprayed it black, let that dry, taped all but the white, and sprayed that. I regret not spraying my grille black at the same time. I now have a nice clean bezel, nice clean emblem, and pockmarked grille.
Oh cool, you are the only other 10/77 build I have seen besides mine, our VINs should be pretty close. Mine is 261097. Your question earlier about the green plugs, I believe, and I may be wrong, but the one on the driver side looks to be from the missing carburetor cooling fan, and the one on the passenger side is likely the one for the vacuum switch that comes off of the charcoal canister. I'm missing the cooling fan and charcoal canister, but I'm going to add back the Vacuum Control Valve that you have on the driver fender (hopefully with that OE bracket if I can find one) along with a BVSV and an aftermarket charcoal canister to re-enable the fuel vapor purge system. I'm just still in the middle of putting stuff back together. If all goes well I'll be running in November, moving under it's own power in December, and then hopefully inspected in January. Great looking 40, keep up the good work!
- Thread starter
- #28
259101 - Definitely close!
Good luck on getting it back together and running...these trucks are much more fun when you can actually drive them!
Do you have or can you get a height measurement for me please? Lift/tire combo is what i'm wanting and need to see if it still fits in the garage.
- Thread starter
- #30
bhsdriller - ~ 79" at the highest point (a little behind rollbar)
JDNs78FJ40
SILVER Star
Please let us know how the sound/heat insulation works. Curious if it cuts out enough to make it worthwhile. I have my seats out so this would be the opportune time.
- Thread starter
- #32
Right now I just have the insulation sitting/resting on the floor and not glued down, there's definitely a noticeable difference in sound (not sure about heat, yet). I think once (if?) I glue this down and seriously spend some time making sure it's an extremely tight fit, there will be some additional benefits. I would say if you have the seats out, the insulation is only $65 or so for enough to do the entire floor of the front and rear of the truck, so well worth the cost (and time) in my mind.
- Thread starter
- #33
We've had some gorgeous weather the past week or so in the DC area so over the weekend spent some time painting the OEM steelies (as they came all black - fail on my part); turned out pretty well. I followed @Copenhagen1 instructions to prep/paint the wheels. Also installed new front and rear seat belts from CCOT as the previous owner had removed all seatbelts.
Last edited:
Nice 40, smart that you take it one project at a time.
what are the air coolers doing in your first pictures?
what are the air coolers doing in your first pictures?
- Thread starter
- #35
Ah - those were pictures of the 40 from the original listing and the shop it was at was a VW speciality shop. But...here's my air cooled toy that goes along with the 40; doesn't get as much love these days since the 40 came over.
.
- Thread starter
- #37
It's genuine. Had it for about 8 years.
Awesome! I have always wanted one. Really regret not buying one 20 years ago when they were much more affordable. I’ll probably never be able to have one now. I was heavily into classic aircooled VW’s in the 90’s and have a thing for the classic german styling. I was a type III guy (notchback,squareback,fastback)
- Thread starter
- #39
I initially hated the notchbacks, but now they're growing on me! Good luck, hopefully you can find one reasonably priced.
