“Buddy,” my FJ45lpb, the backstory, trip, getting the rig going (2 Viewers)

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The disassembly continues ...

The rear drive shaft. At the drive line flange/yoke and pinion flange, one nut that isn't like the others.
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Tire carrier. Even found some of that JIS Yellow!
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Teardown marches on ... no big surprises and few broken bolts. :clap:

Passenger side, a-piller to roof
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Roof and upper cab removed. Weather stripping looks darn good for 52.
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Steering column next. It was a bit a puzzle to figure out how to extract this thing.


Firewall steering wheel boot with horn wire dropping in front
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Stuff that has to be removed to free the column
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After some searching on IH8Mud, I finally got the column out. Interesting pin assembly that holds the 3sp shifter to the shift shaft.

My helper, Sookie, in the twilight of her years at 10+.
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3spd shifter with pins/spring out
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My Uncle's aftermarket horn.
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Out of the way for the next step, removing the engine and drivetrain.
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A few bolts and the tranny and x-fer case are FREE! Got the floor jack underneath to facilitate the process.

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Down on the ground. But I am getting ahead of myself
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PO had only partially installed a replacement F engine so not a whole lot was left to remove, unbolt, etc to get the engine out. Ended up using a strap in the back, between the block and bell housing and a chain up front where the water pump/fan attaches.

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Safely out and on the ground.
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To the engine stand but that required removing the bell housing that, in turn, necessitated removing the pressure plate and flywheel. But of course it does.

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Hmmm ... rust. Nothing a little resurfacing won't cure.
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DOA
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Engine on the stand. Whew.

I guess Sookie approves? She must. More garage floor to lay her old body on. Nice and cool, too.
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Removing misc stuff. Rear brake light cable. Removing the various clips to remove the wire bundle from the frame.

Some clips hold the brake line and cable
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Clips near the back of the frame, holding the cable run in place.
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Note to self: cable runs over the frame at this location
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I'm loving the idea of a teardown, cleaning up the frame and then putting the body back on with all it's patina intact!

Yeah, you can never get the original skin back once it's panted over. That, and I don't have the extra coin laying around to do a full resto. I have zero body work skills and the bed is as crooked as a dog's hind leg. My uncle got every penny's worth out of this rig. :eek:
 
So, I got nearly all of the body mounts I need, save for the two front cab mounts. When I look at the offerings on-line, like SOR, their mount has a nut welded to the top part of the mount, as opposed to the round edged OEM mount I removed from the truck. Bolt's broke so I had to nudge them out. ;)

Question: does anyone have 2 front mounts they want to sell (and/or a business I can buy them from without having to buy an entire kit?)

The original with rounded top :
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What I found on SOR (does this fit into the rounded hole on my 45?)
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Back to the teardown ... (a few buddy's helped me lift off and remove the bottom part of the cab, which when just about everything is removed, ain't that heavy)

To the axles and springs. Front first. Axle supported. Hammer please and an impact driver. Man, do I luv my 18v cordless impact driver. Some of the best money I've ever spent on a tool.

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Moving to the back axle and springs. Neither the front or back were really difficult to remove. I know I am lucky. I've read what some guys had to go through to get their springs free.

Rear pumpkin has leaked since brining it home. Removed what was left.

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Back to the hammer
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A few more odds and ends to remove and the frame will be ready for the frame shop to verify it's good to go. Bought a bunch of dollies from Harbor Freight to move stuff around, like the frame. Rated for 1000lbs/per. I don't think I could be build 'em more cheaply?
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In between preparing the frame for shipment to the local frame guy, I got to work on the underbody rust in preparation for some newbie applied Rust Bullet paint.
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Getting the underside nearly ready for paint. Question: what should I do about the center support channel that, I am quite sure, has plenty of rust hiding inside. The ends are open but you can't get anything in there. I am considering drilling a few holes to insert the Eastwood Internal Frame, rattle can, rust eating paint with 24" tube and nozzle. Thoughts?

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Eastwood Product. I purchase it directly from their website. Much cheaper than Amazon.
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Frame is loaded and ready to drop off at the frame shop Monday. After that, it's off to get media blasted.

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