Brush Guard Question (Damage Multiplier) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So the real issue is the flimsy OEM bumper which allows the headlight hugging area of the guard to bash in the lights/fenders - since they're connected to the main center section of the guard?

My issue is I'm not real fond of the aftermarket bumpers, and I have a nice guard I'd like to use - provided I can make it functional (not a damage multiplier).

The stock bumper is designed to collapse in an accident, very weak, more of a decoration. Mounting pretty much anything to them is destined for failure, like building a house on sand.

Damage multipliers are relatively stout when compared to the stock bumper. The biggest problem is the available mounting points. They mount to the bottom of the frame, under the bumper, with zero triangulation, reinforcement. In a slight accident, where you would lose a headlight, marker and dent the valance with a stock bumper, the damage multiplier folds back, taking out both fenders, hood, lights, etc.

My brother built a bumper and welded a damage multiplier into it. Looks and works OK for his mostly street type use, is much stronger than a basic damage multiplier, but for slightly more effort could have made a "real" bumper?:hillbilly:
sunny_belly_bumper_2_p.jpg
 
The stock bumper is designed to collapse in an accident, very weak, more of a decoration. Mounting pretty much anything to them is destined for failure, like building a house on sand.

Damage multipliers are relatively stout when compared to the stock bumper. The biggest problem is the available mounting points. They mount to the bottom of the frame, under the bumper, with zero triangulation, reinforcement. In a slight accident, where you would lose a headlight, marker and dent the valance with a stock bumper, the damage multiplier folds back, taking out both fenders, hood, lights, etc.
Well what I was thinking was reinforcing the front bumper with a bar behind the front bumper, and having it wrap around to the sides, where I can reinforce it and attach it to the frame. That way the entire front end (bumper, guard, and reinforcement bar) act as a single unit (in theory), all connected securely to the frame. Guess I'll have to stop by a weld shop for them to take a look at it and tell me if it's doable, and if so, just how much work it would take. The things we do for asthetics...
 
Well what I was thinking was reinforcing the front bumper with a bar behind the front bumper, and having it wrap around to the sides, where I can reinforce it and attach it to the frame. That way the entire front end (bumper, guard, and reinforcement bar) act as a single unit (in theory), all connected securely to the frame. Guess I'll have to stop by a weld shop for them to take a look at it and tell me if it's doable, and if so, just how much work it would take. The things we do for asthetics...

That's a ton of work.

If you want aesthetics, get a Slee Shortbus bumper.
 
That's a ton of work.

If you want aesthetics, get a Slee Shortbus bumper.
Is it more than 14 - 24 hrs worth of weldwork? Cuz that's how much you'd be looking at for the Slee bumper ($965, at $40 - $65/hr of weldwork). Not trying to be stubborn lol but it seems like my idea may allow me to keep the asthetics AND cost less (if not roughly the same)...
 
Is it more than 14 - 24 hrs worth of weldwork? Cuz that's how much you'd be looking at for the Slee bumper ($965, at $40 - $65/hr of weldwork). Not trying to be stubborn lol but it seems like my idea may allow me to keep the asthetics AND cost less (if not roughly the same)...

It took me about 8 hours all told to build my rear bumper....from a kit.

So yeah, easily 14-24 hours of work. If you were an expert metal-worker, than probably a days job, but if you were an expert metal worker you could probably just work for a day and earn enough to buy a bumper.
 
I don't usually chip in on stuff like this, but there are some people who need to get off the ARB high horse. Jesus Christ, are we seriously going to flame a guy for buying a brush guard for looks? Give it a rest and let him do what he wants. The odds that he is going to run into a large mammal going 60 mph are incredibly slim. Brush Guards are all about aesthetics, are not meant to be functional, and the owner stated that he knew this....and you guys flame him anyway!?!? Not everyone wants to drop nearly a grand on a bumper for the front of their truck. I personally think a brush guard and an ARB are equally pointless if you do anything less than moderate wheeling. If you plan on putting a winch on your ARB, well that's a different story. But if you need to put a winch on your vehicle, chances are that you'll be doing moderate and above difficulty wheeling, which would necessitate an ARB bar anyway...you dig?
 
No need to get emotional. I was genuinely interested if the brush guard on the arb is a "damage multiplier" as well. No time in the near future, but sometime want to upgrade my now factory bumper and was curious if all brush guards are troublesome or if just certain ones... Not to be too bloody unliberal but having a solid brush guard and being able to ram that deer in the road :steer:without damaging my rig via brush guard is a comforting idea. Just trying to learn:idea:
 
Just buy an ARB. Your not going to find anything much better or sturdier than that. They are really thought out. According to ARB they are designed with frontal protection in mind. AND they come pre-fabbed and simply bolt onto your frame.

HERES FROM ARB:

An ARB bull bar will provide a 4WD with a massive amount of frontal protection. For those who regularly spend time in remote and rural areas, the impending risk of animal strike makes a steel bar the most obvious choice when selecting vehicle accessories. ARB's bars are superbly engineered and manufactured not only to maintain maximum functionality, but also to ensure they complement the look of the vehicle.
 
... I was genuinely interested if the brush guard on the arb is a "damage multiplier" as well. ...

No the ARB is a "Bull Bar". They aren't my favorite, mine has been a huge disappointment from a wheeling point of view, but they are pretty strong, well mounted and great for running over wildlife, etc.

The term "damage multiplier" applies to brush guards, made by Manik, etc. They are relatively weak, poorly mounted, mostly for show and have a tendency to increase damage in a minor accidents. IMHO if I got a rig with one, would pull it before driving, for me it's not worth the risk of damage for the "look".
 
I'm curious why you feel the ARB has been a huge dissapointement while wheeling?
 
I'm curious why you feel the ARB has been a huge dissapointement while wheeling?

They are :censor: huge, well, much larger than needed, hits the ground early and often. The lower section is shaped completely wrong, so gets hung up, this leads to it bending. Off road bumpers should be smooth on the bottom, so they easily slide over terrain. The silly air dam shape on the bottom is stupid, maybe it's purpose is to deflect wildlife entrails downward?
 
They are :censor: huge, well, much larger than needed, hits the ground early and often. The lower section is shaped completely wrong, so gets hung up, this leads to it bending. Off road bumpers should be smooth on the bottom, so they easily slide over terrain. The silly air dam shape on the bottom is stupid, maybe it's purpose is to deflect wildlife entrails downward?
Watch out, all the ARB fanboys here are going to flame you:rolleyes:
 
So by the sounds of it the ARB "bull bar" is good for hitting wildlife (provided ramming a deer going 80 is going to be bad no matter what) but not so good for wheeling?!
 
So by the sounds of it the ARB "bull bar" is good for hitting wildlife (provided ramming a deer going 80 is going to be bad no matter what) but not so good for wheeling?!

:clap::flamingo::beer:
 
So by the sounds of it the ARB "bull bar" is good for hitting wildlife (provided ramming a deer going 80 is going to be bad no matter what) but not so good for wheeling?!

I think they are great. They are really sturdy and if you don't have a proper lift your going to bottom out on anything anyways. I'm only running a 4'' lift right now and have gone through some pretty steep deactivated ditches and it's not hit yet.

And I'd take a deer on at 80 with mine! :steer:
 
They are :censor: huge, well, much larger than needed, hits the ground early and often. The lower section is shaped completely wrong, so gets hung up, this leads to it bending. Off road bumpers should be smooth on the bottom, so they easily slide over terrain. The silly air dam shape on the bottom is stupid, maybe it's purpose is to deflect wildlife entrails downward?

I'm not sure what you mean by silly air damn. It sounds like you are talking about the Sahara bar?? I just went outside and had another look at mine and I can say there isn't an ounce of steel on that thing that doesn't need to be there. And with a 4'' lift I've never hit anything.

Possible you have the old type. They uprgraded the design a couple of years back. The new one is sleek.

have a look.

http://www.arbusa.com/Bull-Bars-Bum...umper-Styles-And-Features/28.aspxars-C33.aspx
 
Is it more than 14 - 24 hrs worth of weldwork? Cuz that's how much you'd be looking at for the Slee bumper ($965, at $40 - $65/hr of weldwork). Not trying to be stubborn lol but it seems like my idea may allow me to keep the asthetics AND cost less (if not roughly the same)...

The problem is, that where the Slee or ARB bumper can collide with an animal or obstacle, and not show much evidence, the OEM bumper on the face of your setup would be mangled and need to be replaced, and reintegrated in whatever system you have created. Simply not worth it, IMHO. The nice thing about having a stout bumper like Slee's, would be knowing it can see some use/abuse, without leaving the kinds of dent and deformities a OEM piece of stamped sheetmetal would have.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by silly air damn. It sounds like you are talking about the Sahara bar?? I just went outside and had another look at mine and I can say there isn't an ounce of steel on that thing that doesn't need to be there. And with a 4'' lift I've never hit anything.

Possible you have the old type. They uprgraded the design a couple of years back. The new one is sleek.

have a look.

Bull Bar-Bumper Styles and Features

That picture is of the bumper for a 100 series. I am unaware of changes made to the 80 series bar since I joined the board when the 80 series section started in '03. There has been a Commercial, and a Deluxe (most common in the US) version. Having been on this board a long time, I can assure you, Tools R Us knows of what he speaks.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom