Looks great!
Builds Broski's Adventure Rig build thread (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter Broski
- Start date
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Awesome.
Did you drive to the trail? If so how does handle at frreway speeds & mountain roads?
Did you drive to the trail? If so how does handle at frreway speeds & mountain roads?
- Thread starter
- #163
No she's a trailer Queen
- Thread starter
- #164
Went and got her weighed today. As she sets with a full size spare (39") recovery gear, some spare parts and tools, she weighs in at 5600lbs.
Not Bad considering.
Not Bad considering.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- Boise - Idaho
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- www.snlandcruisers.com
Seems like you are pretty well there on the sheet metal now but for future reference.
I take the factory seam sealer off several ways. Dry ice works great, make a slurry using rubbing alcohol. Hard to put this in wheel wells though. For that, I burn the s*** out of it with a mapp torch. Then hit it with a wire wheel on the 4” grinder or on the die grinder. It is dirty and nasty but works good and doesn’t waste expensive flap discs.
Also, if you are worried about zinc or can’t get it clean enough for good welds, the SpeedyBlaster is the tool of choice for prep. I got a blast cabinet too and sand blast as much as I can for welding prep these days. I buy a new bracket or make one, it gets blasted before any welding.
$500 CL score plus a few hundred to fix it up.
Cheap, messy but works good for anything on body/chassis.
As you figured out, .23 for sheet metal. I turn up the speed a lot too. Allows me to lay beads vs tack tack tack. I of course start with racks and control heat so no warpage but 2”-3+” beads is no issue.
Cheers
I take the factory seam sealer off several ways. Dry ice works great, make a slurry using rubbing alcohol. Hard to put this in wheel wells though. For that, I burn the s*** out of it with a mapp torch. Then hit it with a wire wheel on the 4” grinder or on the die grinder. It is dirty and nasty but works good and doesn’t waste expensive flap discs.
Also, if you are worried about zinc or can’t get it clean enough for good welds, the SpeedyBlaster is the tool of choice for prep. I got a blast cabinet too and sand blast as much as I can for welding prep these days. I buy a new bracket or make one, it gets blasted before any welding.
$500 CL score plus a few hundred to fix it up.
Cheap, messy but works good for anything on body/chassis.
As you figured out, .23 for sheet metal. I turn up the speed a lot too. Allows me to lay beads vs tack tack tack. I of course start with racks and control heat so no warpage but 2”-3+” beads is no issue.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #166
Thank you for the tips.
For me chiseling off the undercoating was very efficient, I was able to only remove what was necessary, did not have to breathe the sand and the undercoating particles created with the sand blaster ( I have a hand held blaster ) or deal with the mess created when using it in my small shop. with the chisel I can remove the undercoat right to the metal and use the floppy disc only to remove the paint and zinc coating.
I bought the floppy disc's on a King of the Hammers bulk sale from one of the Mud vendors, and payed less then a dollar a piece, they were better quality then the ones I was buying at the local hardware for 4-6 bucks each
This Is a hobby for me and much as I would like to have a sand blast cabinet there just no room in my small shop for it, I am already constantly shuffling things around to make space to work.
What were you before with 37s?
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- Thread starter
- #168
The last time It was weighted it still had the 35s no tire/camping gear rack ,no front axle truss and a few other small thing it was at 5400lb
All the little thing add up fast !!!
I thought is was the water fall at the end of Aftershock. I didn’t know it had a name either.
Yeah, though there's some tricky stuff after it
By memory your basically out of the trail just a few boulders and some sand
That front end will drop out further with the new longer shocks
- Thread starter
- #173
These just arrived, I'm pretty pumped, I well be getting these installed along with a small laundry list of thing I need to do to get ready to run the Dusy Ershim trail in September. I am already running them in the front, these are for the rear Thanks Christo!!
Thanks Christo!!
- Thread starter
- #174
Lots of new stuff going on. The RCV have been on hold as I wait for parts to come. I did get the eimkeith panhard correction kit in stalled. I welled all the corners
first. Then check the fit, ( it was spot on ) prepped the areas to be welled.
I also ran a new break line up and over the the bracket to get it out of harms way. It has been smashed several time before.
this is the stock location totally vulnerable.
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- Thread starter
- #175
I did not like the way the Slinky springs were rubbing on the spring hangers so I cut off the affecting areas.
Before and after
I also trimmed the metal edge off the bump stop. No more clanking
- Thread starter
- #176
Then I headed to my friends Mike's shop (owner of Nelson's Garage ) and had him install the 10% under drive gears.
Super stoked with these gears and the job Shoppy did installing them. THANKS Shoppy !!!!!!!!!!!
Super stoked with these gears and the job Shoppy did installing them. THANKS Shoppy !!!!!!!!!!!
These just arrived, I'm pretty pumped, I well be getting these installed along with a small laundry list of thing I need to do to get ready to run the Dusy Ershim trail in September. I am already running them in the front, these are for the rear
Did RCV ever confirm the dowel size?
- Thread starter
- #178
No, I called three times left two messages, they never got back to me.
In my mind the 16mm pins they sent are to short, the flange is 9mm thick so one would want 9mm in the hub or a 18mm pin. I went ahead and order from McMaster Carr 8mm X 20mm alloy steel pins, they have a Rockwell hardness of C52 with a breaking strength 11800 LBs
I am pulling the Hubs today to drop off at the machine shop to have the holes drilled to 11mm deep.
The machine shop also agreed that that the pins should be longer then the 16mm one provided with the flanges
I would rather go to larger studs and skip the dowels. Larger studs can handle higher torque and therefor apply greater clamping force. Clamping force is what’s holding the axle from spinning on the hub. The dowels seem to be more of an aid in the case of insufficiently torqued studs. Think of how tons are set up.
- Thread starter
- #180
There must be reason RCV set it up that way, don't really want to drill the new flanges just would like the dowels to go into hubs a bit more. Plus I am already set on a path.
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