Builds Broski's Adventure Rig build thread (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I clearanced the front control arms for maximum articulation and clearance at the tie rod.
1582988680046.png
1582988632169.png
1582988593386.png
Also made brackets to move the axle forward 1" and welded 1/4 skid plate to the bottom of them as the originals were getting beat to death.
1582988472546.png
1582988373518.png
 
Very happy to say that the rear is done, Just needs some green paint on the body. All the panels are welded in Primed, seam sealed and undercoated. What I was shooting for was a low lift with the 39/12.50/17s. I was running 37 12.50/16s on stock rim no spacers on a 31/2" lift and 2" bump stop extensions. The plan was to keep it the same height with bigger tires and a lower lift and the same bump stops. Height wise I got with in a 1/4" of my goal by cutting as much as I could with out cutting into the doors or the interior, I had the spring out so I could cycle the rear axle, ended up have to go with a 21/2' bump stop extensions got them from Hitti 66 very nicely made. And new springs form Trail Tailor TourFlex 2F coils There 2" lift coils that netted 3"on my reg.
I now have zero tire rub 39s and only a 1/4" taller :clap:
1583891373309.png
1583891407642.png
1583891446816.png
 
Last edited:
And the passenger side
1583891601195.png
1583891629025.png
1583891659931.png
 
I also got the interior work done, Undercoated the insides of the wheels wells cleaned it all up and put it back together. Had to pull my on board air to get in there.
1583891924067.png
1583891953689.png
1583891990393.png

Well I was at it I made a bracket to keep the spare tire form moving forward. The idea is to be able to tie camping gear on top and still access the spare tire with out having to untie everything, when on a trail run the rack still keep the tire in place. No tools are needed to remove the spare. lightweight & simple
1583892578273.png
 
In need to get on your schedule to drop my rig off with you for some mods. Good work Richard!
 
The gas filler tube needed to be addressed, I inlongated the mounting holes to the frame took a BFH to the area in the wheel well, then made a hose clamp type bracket to pull it the rest of the way.
1583985160629.png
1583985362331.png
 
Then I turned the Reg around there is more room in the front of the shop to work. Removed the front springs , the first thing I checked is the Pan-hard to front Dif as I have moved the axle foreword 1" and theirs a 3/8" Dif guard welded on. It actually clears but I well be grinding on the guard for some extra room.
1583986382673.png
 
Last edited:
I am doing the sheet metal on the lx. I hate it. But no coronavirus yet
I usually enjoy welding but the sheet metal welding is a whole other art, I am getting better at it but the only part I like is getting it done
 
I usually enjoy welding but the sheet metal welding is a whole other art, I am getting better at it but the only part I like is getting it done
I think good looking sheet metal welding is really a job for TIG. I also think the amount of surface prep is substantial when dealing with the zinc plating and undercoating etc. That stuff burns bad...
 
I think good looking sheet metal welding is really a job for TIG. I also think the amount of surface prep is substantial when dealing with the zinc plating and undercoating etc. That stuff burns bad...
I don't see a TIG in my future, I did drop down a wire size on my MIG from .035 to .023 this helped a lot !! As far prep I find the undercoating to thick to grind, I have been Chiseling it off with a wood chisel 1 to 11/2" from the desired weld area then hitting it with a floppy disk to clean up the last bit and the paint. Even with all the Prep there still a substantial amount of slag flying around and it's been burning through my Green welders jacket & work Plants. Being stuffed up in the wheel well doesn't help there no way to get out of the line of fire.
 
It's
I don't see a TIG in my future, I did drop down a wire size on my MIG from .035 to .023 this helped a lot !! As far prep I find the undercoating to thick to grind, I have been Chiseling it off with a wood chisel 1 to 11/2" from the desired weld area then hitting it with a floppy disk to clean up the last bit and the paint. Even with all the Prep there still a substantial amount of slag flying around and it's been burning through my Green welders jacket & work Plants. Being stuffed up in the wheel well doesn't help there no way to get out of the line of fire.

You gotta wire wheel off the zinc coating too, otherwise you'll feel the Bern
 
It's


You gotta wire wheel off the zinc coating too, otherwise you'll feel the Bern
I have been hitting the new sheet metal with the floppy disk, is the wire wheel a better approach ?
 
I have been hitting the new sheet metal with the floppy disk, is the wire wheel a better approach ?
Flap disc should do it but just be extra particular about getting it all clean. And it's the toyota sheet metal that's zincy
 
Great work broski...
Rig is basicly same height, 1" larger tires, close to same uptravel, better aproch & exit angles.
Going to dual coils will make a big change also.
Moab or Bust....
 
Started work on the front, fenders off springs out.
1584199222804.png
This is where I'm going to cut right down that line
1584199340262.png
Cut made.
1584199394181.png
full stuff straight up, you can see that I well be cutting the bumper, skirting and radiator support before it well turn full lift.
1584199683628.png
Full articulated driver side up passenger side down.
1584199829846.png
It's 1" from the stock bump stops and I'm not cutting into the engine bay so it looks like i well be adding bump stop extensions. The plan is it fill it in with sheet metal like the rear. More to follow
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom