Think I've read all the threads on this topic, if not at least most of them. Wasn't able to identify any real solutions beyond part replacement, so figured i'd do a quick write up with items to check if your USB door is broken and won't close.
If we're going to use the banana scale, this is a less-than-or-equal-to one banana job.
I went the route of replacing the part with one found on eBay, which is all well and good (now I have a backup) but gave me a good opportunity to ID what appear to be two clear weak points in the system. Photo below for reference, and troubleshooting items below that.
Turning your attention first to the areas in red: on my particular component, my broken door assembly is missing the small pin that catches the retaining mechanism held by the part in blue. Solution: Probably obvious... find and install (super glue/epoxy) a pin of comparable dimensions. If the pin is entirely lost, think it through. Must be long enough to engage the retaining mechanism but short enough not to interfere with the body of the larger console panel behind it. Must be small enough in diameter to slot into the shark-fin shaped groove in the top of the retaining mechanism. For reference, I'm thinking perhaps a 3/8-1/2in long section of paperclip.
The second area I'd inspect if you're going to be in there, is the tension on the thin-gauge wire providing clockwise spring tension to the retaining mechanism. Mine is providing slightly less tension than the "new" part I installed. I'm not confident enough in my materials engineering knowledge to really offer any good guidance here, but presumably a solution could be found IF that's the origin of your failure to close.
Removing the console panels and gaining access to this part is absurdly easy, very accessible. Used a trim tool and a phillips head screwdriver. If there are any questions there, give me a holler on this thread.
Hopefully this helps someone down the road... I purchased my used but functional replacement part for $30 on eBay, but will plan on repairing my original part and re-installing that in the near future, just to know my 200 is all in one piece.
If we're going to use the banana scale, this is a less-than-or-equal-to one banana job.
I went the route of replacing the part with one found on eBay, which is all well and good (now I have a backup) but gave me a good opportunity to ID what appear to be two clear weak points in the system. Photo below for reference, and troubleshooting items below that.
Turning your attention first to the areas in red: on my particular component, my broken door assembly is missing the small pin that catches the retaining mechanism held by the part in blue. Solution: Probably obvious... find and install (super glue/epoxy) a pin of comparable dimensions. If the pin is entirely lost, think it through. Must be long enough to engage the retaining mechanism but short enough not to interfere with the body of the larger console panel behind it. Must be small enough in diameter to slot into the shark-fin shaped groove in the top of the retaining mechanism. For reference, I'm thinking perhaps a 3/8-1/2in long section of paperclip.
The second area I'd inspect if you're going to be in there, is the tension on the thin-gauge wire providing clockwise spring tension to the retaining mechanism. Mine is providing slightly less tension than the "new" part I installed. I'm not confident enough in my materials engineering knowledge to really offer any good guidance here, but presumably a solution could be found IF that's the origin of your failure to close.
Removing the console panels and gaining access to this part is absurdly easy, very accessible. Used a trim tool and a phillips head screwdriver. If there are any questions there, give me a holler on this thread.
Hopefully this helps someone down the road... I purchased my used but functional replacement part for $30 on eBay, but will plan on repairing my original part and re-installing that in the near future, just to know my 200 is all in one piece.
