How do I fix this broken lug bolt? On other vehicles I just pound them out, but I don’t want to risk bending the flange.
Broken lug bolt (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bighorn Bande
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Unlikely you will bend the flange.... You might have to rotate the axle to find a relief behind it to allow the stud to fully come out. If that doesn't work, you will have to pull the axle (slightly) to get enough clearance to get the old stud out and the new one in. The threads on the stud located at the 5 o'clock position (in your photo) look pretty roached - you might replace a few more while you're in there.
Hi, Pull axle ,soak bolts in pb blaster over night. Replace all. Mike
thorslc1977
SILVER Star
It looks like an axle seal might be in order.
There is a sheet metal shroud around wheel bearing with a bit of a gasket between it and the axle shaft that is held in place by the studs.
Replacing one shouldn't effect it.
The only thing I'd be worried about is that you're hammering against the center pin in the diff (on the other end of the axle shaft). But I don't think I'd bother pulling the axle to avoid that on just one of them.
Replacing one shouldn't effect it.
The only thing I'd be worried about is that you're hammering against the center pin in the diff (on the other end of the axle shaft). But I don't think I'd bother pulling the axle to avoid that on just one of them.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
There' s no need to pull the axle unless you want to replace the grease seal. You wont hurt anything by knocking the out. I've whaled on brake drums to get them off the axle many times.
- Thread starter
- #8
Any links to axle seal change? Need that on 2 vehicles
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Based on the pic, you can consider yourself lucky that this happened and drew your attention to other needed repairs. If you don’t change the axle seals, you will just contaminate your brakes again. Same for rebuilding wheel cylinders.
- Thread starter
- #11
Do you have a good link to show removing and replacing the axle seal? I found some that weren’t that great.
Pulling the axle shaft isn't really hard, just kinda messy, and time consuming, and messing with spider gears and the pin can seem more difficult than it really is the first time.
Pull the cover.
turn the carrier around until you can find the retainer bolt holding the center pin in and remove it.
pull the center pin
push the axle shaft in and remove the C clip.
pull the axle shaft out.
And put it back together the same, check the manual for locktite requirements on the retainer bolt, most need some. (I just tore down 2 axles to put gears from a '74 FJ40 in the casing from an FJ60 to get a wider axle, but haven't put it all back together again yet).
The first time I did this, on a Ford, about 20 year ago, the retainer bolt head snapped off... Now I get anxious every time I think about how to do this. But it's really not hard, as long as you don't have to grind out something like that (and I've never heard of that happening to anyone else... I think I might have turned it the wrong way). Having a helper to spin tire (turn the axle shaft) is helpful, make sure they are slow and gentle, cause these things will chew up fingers.
You *might* end up removing the spider gears, they are held in with the center pin, no big deal, just have to turn the axle shaft to move them back into place. Watch your fingers, they pinch hard. Make sure the oil / thrust washers behind them go back if they fall out too.
I really recommend a seal puller. I just bought one from harbor freight for $8. It seems like a screwdriver or whatever is easy enough that you don't need it. But I've used a screwdriver or whatever for years, and that $8 seal puller was so much easier.
Pull the cover.
turn the carrier around until you can find the retainer bolt holding the center pin in and remove it.
pull the center pin
push the axle shaft in and remove the C clip.
pull the axle shaft out.
And put it back together the same, check the manual for locktite requirements on the retainer bolt, most need some. (I just tore down 2 axles to put gears from a '74 FJ40 in the casing from an FJ60 to get a wider axle, but haven't put it all back together again yet).
The first time I did this, on a Ford, about 20 year ago, the retainer bolt head snapped off... Now I get anxious every time I think about how to do this. But it's really not hard, as long as you don't have to grind out something like that (and I've never heard of that happening to anyone else... I think I might have turned it the wrong way). Having a helper to spin tire (turn the axle shaft) is helpful, make sure they are slow and gentle, cause these things will chew up fingers.
You *might* end up removing the spider gears, they are held in with the center pin, no big deal, just have to turn the axle shaft to move them back into place. Watch your fingers, they pinch hard. Make sure the oil / thrust washers behind them go back if they fall out too.
I really recommend a seal puller. I just bought one from harbor freight for $8. It seems like a screwdriver or whatever is easy enough that you don't need it. But I've used a screwdriver or whatever for years, and that $8 seal puller was so much easier.
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A lot of vendors are happy to provide post-sale tech support.
thorslc1977
SILVER Star
The FSM or Haynes manual have the procedure in them, but Kerplunk above gave a pretty good description. I use a hook shaped thin blade carpet knife to cut the gasket for the differential cover. Makes it easier to remove cover without distorting it.
brian
SILVER Star
This is the sort of thing that when one goes, they all get replaced.
