Broken Bolt Removal Advice? (1 Viewer)

[mrmanos]

After finally getting around to replacing the thermostat, I realized that the torque I used on the bolts was too much for the rusted core. It snapped off while leaving a fairly long piece to grab onto. I’ve squirted penetrating spray on it, tried to clean off the crud with a dremel brush. Im wondering if any of the experts here(no joke) could steer me to removing the broken remaining part of the bolt.

 

[Old Nick]

After finally getting around to replacing the thermostat, I realized that the torque I used on the bolts was too much for the rusted core. It snapped off while leaving a fairly long piece to grab onto. I’ve squirted penetrating spray on it, tried to clean off the crud with a dremel brush. Im wondering if any of the experts here(no joke) could steer me to removing the broken remaining part of the bolt.

Aw shucks, man, that stinks. I’m not an expert, but you could try heating it up and giving it a couple of thumps with a mallet/hammer. The expansion and contraction after the heat is applied might loosen it up.

If that doesn’t work, you could cut it off and drill it out.

Sorry that your dealing with that. I’ve just had to cut off several bolts to get the old ARB rear bumper that came with my truck off. Total time sucker. Many beers were had.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Put two nuts down over it until just above flush. So one locks on the other. Then hit the stud with propane torch
to heat it down into the housing. Use a good penetrating oil too. Small hammer, and wrench - tap on the stud,
try to tighten the huts so you are turning the stud into the hole, ( counter intuitive, I know ) Then lightly try to loosen
the stud with the nut, tighten, loosen - back and forth. Patience should pay off. Gently, don't twist the stud to failure.

 

[mrmanos]

Put two nuts down over it until just above flush. So one locks on the other. Then hit the stud with propane torch
to heat it down into the housing. Use a good penetrating oil too. Small hammer, and wrench - tap on the stud,
try to tighten the huts so you are turning the stud into the hole, ( counter intuitive, I know ) Then lightly try to loosen
the stud with the nut, tighten, loosen - back and forth. Patience should pay off. Gently, don't twist the stud to failure.

Thanks for the tips. I’ll try it for sure. Since I’m not driving anywhere at the moment, I’ll look around my barn/ shop. I do have a propane torch, and I’m sure some nuts to thread on the bolt. I’ve got spray penetrating oil, and some Break Free Teflon oil that’s in my gun supplies. I’ll be patient with it, and try to ease it out, as you recommended. I’m thinking that without all four bolts, it’ll leak. I have a friend who has all the stuff needed to drill out the old bolt, but I’d much rather be able to get it out on my own.

 

[OSS]

Way more force was already applied to that bolt trying to unscrew it - which sheared it in two, than any technique after the fact can apply.
If you want to try to remove it, my suggestion is to remove the entire lower thermostat housing from the truck then attempt the impossible with it clamped in a vise.

If you want to save your piece of mind - start shopping around for a new non-USA lower thermostat housing now.

 

[3_puppies]

If you want to save your piece of mind - start shopping around for a new non-USA lower thermostat housing now.

other option is good used,

and use generous amounts of anti seize when putting back together

 

[Spike Strip]

As stated above, double-nut and get the stud cherry red a couple times, each time squirt a little penetrant on it to shock it. Works every time. Key to breaking the chemical bond that's formed is heat. Smokin' heat. Could also use a good pair of vise-grips if you don't have the nuts ...

(No pun intended)

 

[hj 60]

Weld a nut on then it is red hot and solid to wrench out.

 

[mrmanos]

As stated above, double-nut and get the stud cherry red a couple times, each time squirt a little penetrant on it to shock it. Works every time. Key to breaking the chemical bond that's formed is heat. Smokin' heat. Could also use a good pair of vise-grips if you don't have the nuts ...

(No pun intended)

I just now got the bolt out. Here’s how; I could only find one nut in all my various cans, toolboxes, etc etc. So I took a pritzel, which is a horse shoeing tool used for making nail holes bigger, and a brass hammer, also a shoeing tool, and put the tip on the broken bolt face, banged it for almost a minute, with increasing force, then took a regular size Vise Grip, clamped it down tight, and started to turn it. At first it slipped a little, so I tightened the vise grip a little more, and tried again. To my amazement, it turned, and I slowly turned it all the way out. Tomorrow I’ll get 4 new bolts, anti seize goo, new antifreeze, already have 10 gallons of distilled water.
Once more, you’re collective advice got the job done. Thanks everyone for posting

 

[Spike Strip]

VintageTEqParts.com

vintageteqparts.com

@ToyotaMatt

 

[mrmanos]

I forgot to mention that I didnt have any liquid wrench, so I used Break Free, which has Teflon in it, let it sit for 24 hours. It seems to have helped. The bolt was really corroded on the threads. I Dremeled the upper housing inner surfaces with a wire brush, and got it pretty polished.

 

[mrmanos]

VintageTEqParts.com

vintageteqparts.com

@ToyotaMatt

Hey thanks for that. Those are what I need, but do you think I’ll be able to get the same size bolts at the local Napa? My FJ60 is my only vehicle, so I’m going to try to get the bolts locally. I’m way off the beaten path for oem Toyota parts. However, Napa sometimes can get me hard to find parts, from Denver, I’ll check it out.

 

[Old Nick]

As stated above, double-nut and get the stud cherry red a couple times, each time squirt a little penetrant on it to shock it. Works every time. Key to breaking the chemical bond that's formed is heat. Smokin' heat. Could also use a good pair of vise-grips if you don't have the nuts ...

(No pun intended)

Hey thanks for that. Those are what I need, but do you think I’ll be able to get the same size bolts at the local Napa? My FJ60 is my only vehicle, so I’m going to try to get the bolts locally. I’m way off the beaten path for oem Toyota parts. However, Napa sometimes can get me hard to find parts, from Denver, I’ll check it out.

Dude, get the bolts from @ToyotaMatt. He’ll hook you up. My ‘62 is my daily driver, just like yours (it’s in my driveway undergoing a rebuild.. I feel you). Get the right parts. Your truck will be glad you did.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hey thanks for that. Those are what I need, but do you think I’ll be able to get the same size bolts at the local Napa? My FJ60 is my only vehicle, so I’m going to try to get the bolts locally. I’m way off the beaten path for oem Toyota parts. However, Napa sometimes can get me hard to find parts, from Denver, I’ll check it out.

NO , absolutely NOT

not at NAPA ........

My BOLTS are JIS SEMS type ........

correct Length in millimeters exactly , 100% solid


i also have these NEW

OEM #7 Stamped marked Heads

a JIS mark #7 is a higher Tinsel Strength then a SAE 8.8 ....fact or Simply stronger bolt hands down ...

ALL are the correct Length ......also

These are LIGHT YEARS ahead of ANYTHING Toyota motor corporation has or does currently offer in any way shape or form ...........


Yellow DI-Chromate Plated , this is the TOP corrosion resistant Plating technology on the market today as well

#7 mark head Yellow Zinc Gold Plated Thermostat Housing Hardware Mounting KIT System F1.5 2F 3FE 1972- 1990 FJ40 FJ60 FJ55 FJ43 FJ62 4 BOLT KITS - VintageTEqParts.com

MADE IN JAPAN 8mm x 1.25 x 46mm LONG SOLD in SETs of qty x 4 only .......... J.I.S. SEMS...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[Spike Strip]

You will be able to find (most likely) the proper M8 x 1.25 bolts at NAPA, but they will not be the proper JIS 12mm hex head. They will be 13mm DIN. Using a DIN bolt will get you kicked off of MUD and earn you the enmity of the person who next removes that t'stat housing.

Ikid... (only about the kicked-off part). I hate finding bastard fasteners on Japanese cars. I threw away all my 13 and 15mm sockets!

But you gotta do what you gotta do to keep the DD rolling. I get it.

An alternative is to use threaded M8x1.25 studs. Red loctite into the bottom housing, and use 12mm Hex nuts with a wide washer and a lock washer. That's what I did to prevent the snapped bolt ever again.

Good luck!

 

[cruiserpilot]

This stuff. For assembly.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

After finally getting around to replacing the thermostat, I realized that the torque I used on the bolts was too much for the rusted core. It snapped off while leaving a fairly long piece to grab onto. I’ve squirted penetrating spray on it, tried to clean off the crud with a dremel brush. Im wondering if any of the experts here(no joke) could steer me to removing the broken remaining part of the bolt.

View attachment 2722597

You will be able to find (most likely) the proper M8 x 1.25 bolts at NAPA, but they will not be the proper JIS 12mm hex head. They will be 13mm DIN. Using a DIN bolt will get you kicked off of MUD and earn you the enmity of the person who next removes that t'stat housing.

Ikid... (only about the kicked-off part). I hate finding bastard fasteners on Japanese cars. I threw away all my 13 and 15mm sockets!

But you gotta do what you gotta do to keep the DD rolling. I get it.

An alternative is to use threaded M8x1.25 studs. Red loctite into the bottom housing, and use 12mm Hex nuts with a wide washer and a lock washer. That's what I did to prevent the snapped bolt ever again.

Good luck!

the correct needed length is exactly 46mm long & a FINE Thread pitch

you DO NOT just find this JIS spec. length & Pitch at any old hardware store i have ever seen , and iv looked , its a unique size spec., .....

12mm hex tool head too



if you buy a NON JIS 8mm bolt you get a 13mm hex tool head , if you make this mistake , your SOCKET or BOX end wrench will have Clearance issues between the housing and hex bolt head , u can't fully turn the bolt hex head .....

no imagine all that JAZZ on a blistering hot summer day out in your driveway of your shop going on ........

 

[BlackCat]

You don’t want the broken stud red hot, you want to heat the housing. Heating causes expansion, if you heat the broken stud it will just expand even more and be harder to remove. Heat the housing around the stud.

 

[mrmanos]

the correct needed length is exactly 46mm long & a FINE Thread pitch

you DO NOT just find this JIS spec. length & Pitch at any old hardware store i have ever seen , and iv looked , its a unique size spec., .....

12mm hex tool head too



if you buy a NON JIS 8mm bolt you get a 13mm hex tool head , if you make this mistake , your SOCKET or BOX end wrench will have Clearance issues between the housing and hex bolt head , u can't fully turn the bolt hex head .....

no imagine all that JAZZ on a blistering hot summer day out in your driveway of your shop going on ........

You’re right. I got the 13mm head bolt, but I will order a set of the oem bolts. This is a temporary fix so I can take it to my mechanic if I can’t the temperature down to the halfway point on the gauge. After starting it, the gauge quickly went up to right below the red zone. It never does this. It’s probably air bubble trapped. I parked it on an incline and after it cools down, will run with the radiator cap off.

 

[mrmanos]

VintageTEqParts.com

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@ToyotaMatt

I just ordered the set. Thanks for posting this info. I put a non jis bolt in, it fits, but I’ll put the new ones in when they arrive.