Builds Bringing an old 40 back to life (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 1967fj40
- Start date
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The wings at Duffs vs Anchor Bar are quite different, both very good though!
- Thread starter
- #44
Did some stuff this weekend to the 40...
Cooling system checked again- I found where the leak was that I noticed earlier and luckily it was just a loose hose clamp so I tightened the hoses and re-installed the thermostat....Let it run at idle for over a half hour and maintained a temp of 160 which was good to see.
Brakes- Filled master cylinder and started to slowly pump the brakes and could feel pressure build then lost it all. Didnt get under the car but it appears to be coming from the T fighting on passenger side of rear axle and another leak somewhere by the drivers side of the rear axle. Any idea where I can get a T fitting for this? SOR says "discontinued".
Exhaust- Can anyone recommend a good muffler? I want it to be as quiet as possible. I contacted the local muffler specialist and they refused to weld in a new muffler. They said I would have to bring in the whole vehicle and they would build a custom exhaust system. I couldn't imagine it would be worth the money to do that.
Suspension/wheels/tires- It desperately needs new leaf springs and shocks, along with a new set of rims and tires before I take the family in it. I know it doesn't NEED new rims but if I'm going to replace the tires I want to go with 16" rims for a better tire selection.
Really need to figure out what I'm going to do with this thing. Not sure I want to drop a ton of money to get it where I want it to be.
Cooling system checked again- I found where the leak was that I noticed earlier and luckily it was just a loose hose clamp so I tightened the hoses and re-installed the thermostat....Let it run at idle for over a half hour and maintained a temp of 160 which was good to see.
Brakes- Filled master cylinder and started to slowly pump the brakes and could feel pressure build then lost it all. Didnt get under the car but it appears to be coming from the T fighting on passenger side of rear axle and another leak somewhere by the drivers side of the rear axle. Any idea where I can get a T fitting for this? SOR says "discontinued".
Exhaust- Can anyone recommend a good muffler? I want it to be as quiet as possible. I contacted the local muffler specialist and they refused to weld in a new muffler. They said I would have to bring in the whole vehicle and they would build a custom exhaust system. I couldn't imagine it would be worth the money to do that.
Suspension/wheels/tires- It desperately needs new leaf springs and shocks, along with a new set of rims and tires before I take the family in it. I know it doesn't NEED new rims but if I'm going to replace the tires I want to go with 16" rims for a better tire selection.
Really need to figure out what I'm going to do with this thing. Not sure I want to drop a ton of money to get it where I want it to be.
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You might just have a poor connection where the lines meet the T-fitting? Those flared fittings are sometimes temperamental for the installer. I just chased down several leaks after renewing everything aside from the Tees. Pics might help. But, I'd bet that Classic Cruisers might help getting a new unit.
I'm using an early OEM 40 muffler and SOR tailpipe for my '75; I like it, but I still need a real exhaust pipe with an O2 sensor bung to make it nice - so I'm going to have to visit my local exhaust fabricator. Custom exhaust bending, and skilled welding, is really a good thing that is somewhat inaccessible for the shadetree mechanic. Who knows, you might just be able to get a bolt-on muffler, even salvage yard, to replace what is toast and clamp it until you are ready to take it a step further. This is where having a pair of digital calipers is really useful.
I'm using an early OEM 40 muffler and SOR tailpipe for my '75; I like it, but I still need a real exhaust pipe with an O2 sensor bung to make it nice - so I'm going to have to visit my local exhaust fabricator. Custom exhaust bending, and skilled welding, is really a good thing that is somewhat inaccessible for the shadetree mechanic. Who knows, you might just be able to get a bolt-on muffler, even salvage yard, to replace what is toast and clamp it until you are ready to take it a step further. This is where having a pair of digital calipers is really useful.
- Thread starter
- #46
Found out the rear brake line that goes across the axle (only one that wasn’t replaced) is rotted through. Also noticed the pieces of the frame that go from the side rails to the rear bumper are significantly rotted. How bad is this?
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Those U-bolts look like they are ready to give way. I wouldn't climb under the back half of the truck until it is supported solid.
The frame gussets, rear bumper, back part of the frame, and spring hangers are advertised as available aftermarket items. However, your frame as a whole needs to be assessed.
The frame gussets, rear bumper, back part of the frame, and spring hangers are advertised as available aftermarket items. However, your frame as a whole needs to be assessed.
BeerM3
SILVER Star
I have bad news about not spending thousands vs what rotten frame repair and new springs cost...
- Thread starter
- #50
The rest of the frame seems solid. It’s contained to that area What’s a fair asking price? I’ve got boxes of extra parts, a whole other set of glass, engine runs smooth...
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BeerM3
SILVER Star
Do you mean an asking price to sell? That's a huge can o worms without dozens of pictures to guesstimate from in lieu of crawling around it. If you meant price to repair the rear frame and springs (are the front springs shot too?) browse around for Rancho, Skyjacker, or Old Man Emu suspensions. Real Steel Cruiser Parts, Cruisersolutions, and others carry an assortment of metal skin and gusset parts.
- Thread starter
- #52
Asking price to sell. I’d assume it has to be worth something since they’re are plenty of good OEM usable parts. I’ll figure it out
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Put together a list of what's definitely good, preferably by system (i.e., engine, transmission/transfer case, driveshafts, axles, fuel, brakes, etc.). Do a little research to come up with what you think are fair MUD prices then go from there.
- Thread starter
- #54
@4Cruisers appreciate the input. I really have no interest in parting it out other than maybe the seats and extra glass. Would prefer to sell it whole
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Same approach.
- Thread starter
- #56
Found replacements for the rotted pieces on ebay for $199......with the rest of the frame being solid, this doesnt seem like an awful idea. Going to look more into the frame when I get home and make a final decision.
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JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
if you go anyplace local your going to pay thousands to repair that... however you are not far from Wally Moses in North Pownal VT ... he does frame repairs all the time... he is a welding wizard = fantastic work and VERY reasonable in prices
@Tetanus
PM me for contact info
forum.ih8mud.com
BTW I am just above you in E Greenbush NY... we down down your way every saturday for soccer at either Hyde Park or Rhinebeck
@Tetanus
PM me for contact info
Poor Wallys Landcruiser Emporium
Posting this for OldIron here on Mud: Sorry I cannot get to mud from work, but I have an 88 GMC2500 4x4. Odometer says 51 K but I know that is wrong though I believe it is just under 100K. The motor (350 TBI) has an oil leak at the cooler line on the filter housing. My mechanic says it...
forum.ih8mud.com
BTW I am just above you in E Greenbush NY... we down down your way every saturday for soccer at either Hyde Park or Rhinebeck
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JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
thats good!
ooops just read from the begining... you have an f135 (disregard the comment that was here lol)
as mentioned earlier ... you need the small window for it to be correct.... but.... that will work as it is a 1bbl and your manifold is a 1bbl... Mark can nail it as to what year that carb came from.... but... it will work (as long as its a working carb... you will need a rebuild kit... Mark aka @65swb45 would have the correct one as well as Kurt @cruiseroutfit
we sometimes goto the walkway as well... if u see a rusty white 40 with green soft top... thats me
(and my rugrats)
ooops just read from the begining... you have an f135 (disregard the comment that was here lol)
as mentioned earlier ... you need the small window for it to be correct.... but.... that will work as it is a 1bbl and your manifold is a 1bbl... Mark can nail it as to what year that carb came from.... but... it will work (as long as its a working carb... you will need a rebuild kit... Mark aka @65swb45 would have the correct one as well as Kurt @cruiseroutfit
we sometimes goto the walkway as well... if u see a rusty white 40 with green soft top... thats me
(and my rugrats)
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