Brakes... (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Threads
136
Messages
1,608
Location
SW MO, NE OK, and NW AR
So i orderd brakes through oriellys, paying the price for the "Proformance" quality ones. A single walled train wheel looking thing? Talk about heat!

So, what do you guys recomend? I perfer a two walled vented type, but have had no luck finding some at a resonable price...
 
Mini-truck axles used only solid rotors. If you want a vented rotor, you'll need to get rotors for a FJ60 Land Cruiser and switch the calipers for ones from an IFS truck (86 and up). For increased stopping power, get calipers for a 90-95 V6 4Runner. Those have 2 large pistons instead of one large and one small.

On most later model trucks (81-85), the rotor bolts onto the hub with 2 bolts and the wheel studs are passed through the hub and pressed into the rotor. For these models, you'll need the FJ60 LC rotors with 8 holes. If it's an earlier model, it can still be done, however you'll need a different rotor. I think that one is from a 79/80 LC, but I would have to double check to be sure.
 
Mini-truck axles used only solid rotors. If you want a vented rotor, you'll need to get rotors for a FJ60 Land Cruiser and switch the calipers for ones from an IFS truck (86 and up). For increased stopping power, get calipers for a 90-95 V6 4Runner. Those have 2 large pistons instead of one large and one small.

On most later model trucks (81-85), the rotor bolts onto the hub with 2 bolts and the wheel studs are passed through the hub and pressed into the rotor. For these models, you'll need the FJ60 LC rotors with 8 holes. If it's an earlier model, it can still be done, however you'll need a different rotor. I think that one is from a 79/80 LC, but I would have to double check to be sure.

For a 79-80 mini-truck you want vented rotors from a 79-80 LC, for an 81-85 mini you want vented rotirs from an 81-83 LC.
 
I guess it depends what kind of braking you need really. While, yes it is always gonna be better to have the vented rather than non-vented type, do you really need them? How much and what kind of driving are you gonna be doing?
My old 85 Runner I had 31's and usually ran with roof off, but it was my DD. Completely stock brakes. Never had a problem, could lock em up in a second if needed. Spend the money on mid-grade pads. The difference over cheepo's is scary sometimes as the coefficient of friction is much more in a mid-grade, but not too much that it overheats the rotors(which of course are still solid and can't dissipate the heat produced by High end ceramic blends etc...
My new rig has 33's (way more rotational mass) and will have drawers as a DD and rooftop tent as well when it's an expedition rig, hence, building it to carry a large load more often. So I did the Vented LC rotor swap with IFS calipers and did the V6 dual diaphragm booster swap, and swapped in an IFS V6 rear end with the bigger brakes. Along with setting the LSPV to full application permanently.
So really you should be able to find a happy middle ground somewhere in there depending on what you need. No sense spending money where it's not needed.
 
My new rig has 33's (way more rotational mass) and will have drawers as a DD and rooftop tent as well when it's an expedition rig, hence, building it to carry a large load more often.

Actually the rotational mass means very little in this situation. What matters is the length of the "lever arm". When you use a larger diameter tire the road to hub "lever arm" is now longer, but the brakes are still only acting on it at the same distance out from the hub. It will take more force on the brakes to achieve the same stopping rate.
 
What Bob said. Marlin Crawler sells a reasonably affordable set up like he describes. its all brand new parts though so its worth the price. FJ60 vented rotors, 90s IFS calipers/pads and a V6 master cylinder. I did the upgrade and it made a huge difference. next step is a rear disc conversion.
 
I guess I should have worded myself better, but yes, you're right. I more meant that while yes there is lot's more rotational mass in a 33 vs. a 28/29 stock, because it's a 33, that mass is acting on a 16.5" lever rather than a 14" one. Simple math from there.

I think you'd be surprised how much difference the additional mass of each wheel makes. Can't remember where, but was reading a writeup on it once and was amazed the difference between a stock wheel tire combo and larger sizes. And how much more tires weigh at the circumference etc....
 
well, im just trying to set everything up for around a 35, getting the brakes done, longfields, lockers, etc... then when i hit wyotech in january, well, itll be interesting...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom