Brakes a comprehensive list of parts, supplies, tools, and information. (1 Viewer)

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Hey folks... Its time for me to do my brakes on my 1996 FZJ80. I wanted to put together a list of parts, supplies, information, and tools needed. I'd also like to gather "nice to do items". I looked around mud a bit but really couldn't find a good list. My goal is to a complete brake job and maybe some of the "nice to do items"

Update 08/27/2016 -- I completed my brake job see post #8

I'm just starting my list and I'll add updates from the posts below as time goes on.
Here is the list so far -- Any thoughts or suggestions?

Special Tools outside the normal --

54mm Socket
Snap Ring Tool
Brass Hammer
Brake Bleeder Kit (Posts #2, #5)

Supplies -
High Temp Wheel Grease
Brake Cleaner - cleaning up that grease
Brake Fluid

Parts Both (Front and Rear) -
Brake Pads
Rotors
Calipers (Post #5)


Parts Front Only -
Hub Seals (Post #5)

Parts Rear Only -
E-Brake Pads
Hub Seals (Post #5)


Extra Nice to do Items --
Wheel Studs -- Replace them if they are bad
Front Wheel bearings
Brake Lines -- Replace or Extend? In 2014 I used these - Dorman Brake Hoses -- H380535 H380233 H621096 H380428 H380234 H380427 H380234, yours may vary.
e-brake shoe hardware -- I'm split on this, I did mine in 2013 as the parts were in bad shape
Chromoly Spindle Nut Kit (Toyota) - Trail Gear -- See Post #2

Helpful Posts and Information -
Helpful Video on the FZJ80 Replacement


Current Parts (Not Complete or final yet) --
https://amzn.com/w/1V43CL9YDJ1N6
 
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Mighty vac bleeder from Harbor Freight - Best way to bleed 80 brakes and you dont need help.

Parts front - You will need new hub seals at a minimum.
Front bearing should be good as long as they have been adjusted properly over there life

When setting the preload on the front bearings do everything in the video until it comes to the final tension and set the preload nut at 28-30 ft/lbs of torque and you will be golden.

Also consider Chromoly Spindle Nut Kit (Toyota) - Trail Gear a great set up and much more reliable than the stock set up keeping your bearing in check. Check with TG CS if you order for the need for button head screws. I have hear these are needed for full time 80 series. I did not need them because Im Part Time.
 
May need hub paper gasket for front/rear. I have reused paper gasket when wrenching on Sunday.

Thanks for the suggestions. Questions, can you be a bit more specific on the gaskets? I'd like to add them but am not quite sure which part you mean.
 
Front: 43422-60060 (see item #4). Need this gasket if repack front wheel bearings or remove rotor.

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Rear: 43422-60040 (see item #4). Need this gasket if repack rear wheel bearings or remove axle shaft.

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You will also need a SST for bearing lock if you want to repack rear wheel bearings. I have this SST and you are welcome to borrow mine.

PS: Diagrams borrowed from Camelback Toyota.
 
When you pull your calipers, inspect the piston dust boots & retaining rings that keep them affixed to the caliper. If any are torn or missing you should consider replacing them. (04479) PN: 04479-60020

If you see any brake fluid leaking out around the piston seals, then it may be time to consider rebuilding or swapping for replacement/rebuilt calipers.

I have rebuilt a few pairs but the price/availability of the pistons (47731) PN:47731-60010 can be an issue. The pistons can get pitted by rust and require replacement.

I also like to install Speed Bleeders www.speedbleeder.com PN: SB1010 when I do a flush. I have not used the power bleeder like LCP suggested but I hear they are great.

PittedPiston.jpg


FrontBrakes.jpg
 
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Thank you for all the great posts, keep them coming. I'm added the post numbers to the original post, but I miss something please feel free to point it out.

I'm looking at full rotor / pad kits and individual parts too. I started a list on amazon and when I narrow down all the parts I'll use it as the final list -- https://amzn.com/w/1V43CL9YDJ1N6
 
After 11 hours of tracking down some extra parts and some serious wrenching Spike and I got the entire brake system done. I have to say without Spikes help it would have been a multi-day repair.

Parts I used -
Power Stop K1156-36 Z36 Severe-Duty Truck - Rear
Power Stop K1154 Front Ceramic Brake Pad - Front
4 x Napa Calipers
2 x Flange gaskets
1 x Chromoly Spindle Nut Kit (Toyota) - Trail Gear
2 x Snap Rings

Parts I bought but didn't use -
Front Seals
Wheel Bearings

Parts I had to buy during the install -
Front Passenger and Driverside Outer Brake lines

Issues -
Calipers -- I knew the front driver's side caliper was bad, but on further inspection, the rear one was also showing signs of wear. Good thing I planned to replace them all at the same time.

Axle Nuts -- On both sides were, I believe, hammered on with a flat instrument vs. using the 54mm Socket. This made it a bit difficult to remove them. The star lock washer was missing tabs on both sides. After removal, it was discovered the outer threads were crossed and it took about ~2 hours of work with a file to clean them up. Once repaired the Trail Gear part went on smoothly. I was very glad to have purchased TG's product as I believe it is a better system then bending up a star lock washer.

Outer Brake hoses -- Both outer brake hoses were showing wear and the outer cover was splitting. BTW -- Who knew inside of the rubber outer coating they are steel braided. Napa was the only shop that had the replacement hoses. Their hoses looked decent but the issue was their attachment to the caliper. These hoses limit direct access to the caliper bolt.

Outer Hard Brake lines -- Had some issues attaching the new Outer brake hoses to one of the hard lines. It appears the nuts on the hard line were smashed a bit causing them to flare out, but some simple clean up on the grinder and we were back in business.

New Napa Calipers -- No real issues here just a note. The bolts for the metal caliper cover didn't fit, I used the stock ones. One Caliper snap ring was off a caliper boot, it was a bit of a pain to get back on but we got it on no issues.


Things I didn't think of -- But Spike did :)
Getting a direct seal for your flange gaskets is important. They use some sort of unnecessary gasket sealer and this made it difficult to remove the old gasket. A bit of scraping and an air tool polisher had them looking as good as new. We used the same polisher on the hub assembly.

Summary --
I bought just about every seal, nut, gasket, and bearing I could as I have never opened up the front and I wasn't sure what I'd need. In the end, I only needed the paper gasket and I replaced the snap ring. Bleeding the system took a bit, we went over the system about 3 times and I think I counted 480 brake pumps :)

Now the Million dollar question -- How well does it work? Very Well!
Things I notice -- Braking from normal speeds, even freeway speeds, to Zero is MUCH quicker. Coming up to a stop takes less effort to do so.

In the end, I'm happy with the outcome. To me, the products I got are well worth it and I was glad to have Spike helping out as it would have taken me so much longer!

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