Brakes - 80 Series Master Cylinder in a 60 (1 Viewer)

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I’ve got a leaking caliper (front driver) so I figure now is a good time to put this new MC I have sitting here on. I bought it from Georg a while back on one of my visits to his shop. It was more than two years ago so I can’t rememeber any of the tips/directions he probably told me.

Can this thing bolt right in or do I need to mod it? It has a totally different/newer wire connector on it. Do I just cut it and cut the old one and use the other end of the old one on the new one?

Has anyone used this before? Is this better braking performance?

Thanks for the help... search did not provide me much on this particular topic.
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Yeah just cut the connector off the 60 master and splice it to the 80 MC.
Otherwise I don’t understand the question? The bolt patterns are the same, why wouldn’t it bolt up?
 
Yeah just cut the connector off the 60 master and splice it to the 80 MC.
Otherwise I don’t understand the question? The bolt patterns are the same, why wouldn’t it bolt up?

Not everyones an engineer matt. Thanks for the help.
 
The 80 series MC has a larger bore correct? One inch instead of the stock Ø7/8". If that's the case you will be changing the design of the system a bit. I believe you will get more pedal travel.

The 80 series MC is a good choice overall. The built in residual valves are great for running discs front and rear. The 2 lb residual valve for the rear is a little less than what is recommended for drum brakes.

All in all no big deal, i'm running a T100 MC with no residual valves.
 
Not everyones an engineer matt. Thanks for the help.

That doesn’t matter. I’d just rather see people actually trying something before asking. Just sayin
 
The 80 series MC has a larger bore correct? One inch instead of the stock Ø7/8". If that's the case you will be changing the design of the system a bit. I believe you will get more pedal travel.

The 80 series MC is a good choice overall. The built in residual valves are great for running discs front and rear. The 2 lb residual valve for the rear is a little less than what is recommended for drum brakes.

All in all no big deal, i'm running a T100 MC with no residual valves.

Thanks for the insight. This is helpful.
 
That doesn’t matter. I’d just rather see people actually trying something before asking. Just sayin

I’d like to see people not be so pompous... But as The Rolling Stones Said...
 
Yeah just cut the connector off the 60 master and splice it to the 80 MC.
Otherwise I don’t understand the question? The bolt patterns are the same, why wouldn’t it bolt up?

@hygge ^^^ see what I mean... lol.
 
Sorry if I came across as pompous, I thought this was pretty common knowledge.
 
I spent a ton of time trying to get the braking just right in my 60 and from what I understand this is opposite. A larger bore will have less pedal travel, less actual braking force (leverage), and more of a firm pedal feel. I've tried all from the 7/8 to 1" to 1 1/16 and pedal travel goes from more with the smaller bore to less with the larger, and pedal firmness is greater as bore increases.

edit: fyi The 80 series is a 1" bore.

Somewhere I read an analogy of bore size, smaller to larger, to walking through mud with soup cans vs trash can lids on your feet, and in my experience it holds true to how it impacts travel and feel, assuming that the bore at the opposite end (caliper) hasn't changed.

For the OP, I'm happy to share what I used for a setup if it would help any. I would say my brakes are comparable to any modern car now, even with drums in the back and running 33s, but it took a lot of trial and error.

I am using that same MC (bore size anyway) and it works well with my upgraded 4 runner calipers, but may be a slightly noticeable reduction in leveraged stopping power and more firm of a pedal feel if your calipers are stock. Will bolt up just fine though.

The 80 series MC has a larger bore correct? One inch instead of the stock Ø7/8". If that's the case you will be changing the design of the system a bit. I believe you will get more pedal travel.

The 80 series MC is a good choice overall. The built in residual valves are great for running discs front and rear. The 2 lb residual valve for the rear is a little less than what is recommended for drum brakes.

All in all no big deal, i'm running a T100 MC with no residual valves.
 
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I put the same one on a 60 that i did an lsswap on also went with a new currie enterprise ford 9inch rear axle with disk brakes on it so the 80 one worked great on the 60 i am doing now went with all new brake hardware brake cylinders shoes and brake drums in the back i rebuilt the front brake calipers new drilled and slotted rotors new pads also replaced the 60 brake master with a new stock 60 one. I have read to many brake threads about changing this and changing that but no real evidence of a smoking gun the tundra brake mod is looking promising but still not 100% also needs different rims and tires so alot of people won't want to go that route. @joebattle1 dont get to bent over @cruisermatt attitude he is that way to everyone and just doesn't see it
 
Any new MC or brake booster will need to have the rod adjusted to the other.

The correct way to do that is with a depth gauge or caliper, but I typically do it by feel which has worked well for me.

Basically, I thread the brake booster rod all the way extended forward, and then take the new master cylinder without being hooked up to anything else yet, and butt it up to the booster. The rod should cause it to not be able to sit flush unless you push really hard, actuating the mc. I then thread the rod back in until I can butt the mc up to the booster so that it is flush without having to use any force.

The main thing you want to avoid is having the master cylinder actuating while you are driving (rod is too far out and pushing on the mc), meaning you are pressing the brakes without knowing it.
 
Also make sure to bleed the MC before attaching the brake lines to it or you will have a lot of air in the system. My method is to install it onto the booster and then use the brake pedal to actuate the MC while bleeding it with a kit like the pictured.

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I used old brake lines, plugged them into MC while on the truck and bled using brake pedal.

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