Brake Woes (1 Viewer)

[jeverich]

Replaced calipers....Junction to Caliper hard lines also.

Everything was going smoothly....painted calipers bling red...new hard lines looked sexy...

Connected everything - begin to bleed system. I have a leak form the left hard line at the junction for the knuckle flex line.

I've given up for today - I have a longer length of hard line. I'm going to make up a new hard line with the stock length tube first - if she fails, I'm going to make a line with the longer tube that I've got. My gut is telling me that the line was bent a tad too short - causing stress on the junction end - thus preventing the flare from seating - causing a leak.

Any thoughts - sources for junctions? Sorry for no pictures - camera is not with me....

#10 is where she's bleeding

I have two straight junctions - I figure worst case I can temporarily bypass the OEM junction and run the hard line right to the soft line via adapter?

sorry for all of the words.

 

[ntsqd]

If both threads are in good shape and the nut engages the fitting threads the flare will seat on the cone. Whether it seals or not depends on the condition of both the cone and the flare. If you're doing the flaring yourself be absolutely anal about cutting the tube square and carefully deburring the end's ID and OD. If you don't it usually causes a split in the flare.

 

[Dynosoar]

Just run a longer flex line (from axle to caliper) and skip the junction block. This will save you ever having to bleed the brakes after blowing a bifield (trail repair).


Dynosoar

 

[MrMoMo]

Just run a longer flex line (from axle to caliper) and skip the junction block. This will save you ever having to bleed the brakes after blowing a bifield (trail repair).


Dynosoar

DOH - that's a great idea! Wish I had seen that before I did my brakes!

 

[jeverich]

napa

Going to NAPA tomorrow AM.

 

[ntsqd]

How I did mine, not the greatest pic, but you get the idea:

Had to move the mounting tabs as they wouldn't clear where I wanted the lower shock mounts to be. That is -3 SS hose with a heavy heat shrink over it. Caliper end has a 90* hose end on it.

 

[Tinker]

NT -
Did you fab those flex lines or are they readily available? I'm just mocking up my "new" axles & have the MAF short SS lines for the calipers to the junctions, but they're straight & might pose the same problem you had.

P.S. What springs & shackles are you running?

 

[ntsqd]

I built those from hose ends and adapters sourced from Ormebros.com. I also moved the anchor tabs down and off to the rear, and then re-bent the axle hard line to fit. I dislike the pre-made style of braided hoses as right at the hose end they neck down to the tiny tube that fits inside of the teflon liner. I've seen a couple brands that don't do this, but most do. The screw-together hose ends are not like that, the smallest unsupported part is the hose itself. Also by building them I can make a field repair should it be necessary. I always order extra hose and one extra of each unique adapter and hose end plus some extra ferrules. Those go in a sealed bag in the vehicle. I actually cut up a pre-made hose that I had to make the rear hose.

Those are OME springs and shackles. I've only got maybe 100 miles on them, but so far I'm not impressed. The leaves under Patch ride a lot better than these do. I've a feeling that long term "Wallace" will be getting GM 63's at the rear and coils & radius arms up front.