Brake Tubes and fuel lines 2000 Lexus LX 470 (3 Viewers)

[Charles Cain]

Has anyone replaced the brake tubes on a 100 series. I got a quote for $1400. I was wondering how tough it is. I am struggling to find much information on here, but then again I am new to the forum. I see a lot of folks doing the break hoses but my lines/tubes are rusty. Another mechanic asked if the lines had bubble flares, double flares, or single flares. From what Ive read its mainly double flares with the possibility of some bubble flares at certain brake components, but I have found nothing definitive. I also need to do the fuel lines too, one mechanic said not to touch them. He said if he dropped the fuel tank that it could total the vehicle because the bolts will all brake ect. I don't think that seems logical. If the bolts brake on the fuel tank skid plate straps could i not weld them or find away to repair it?? Any help on this would be great! Sorry if there is a huge thread on this already, and I just didn't find it.

C.J.

2000 LX 470
AHC Delete
Upgraded stereo and camera

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Each section can be replaced with toyota parts, pre-bent and properly flared. The alternative is to bend and flare each piece in a custom way. I would recommend replacing with toyota parts. Most sections cost less than $50. You can probably find a better deal by shopping around (maybe rock auto or Partsouq).

Rusty parts will be tough to remove, but you will save a ton on labor if you do it yourself. Use penetrating fluid and, if necessary, heat, prior to removing rusty junction bolts.

Obviously, bleed the entire system afterwards, and cap any sections that you leave open for any prolonged periods.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

With regards to the fuel tank, you can weld or repair any parts that need to be fixed, in a worst case scenario. Again, use penetrating fluid, prior to attempting to remove bolts. Your mechanic has expired and is overdue for replacement.

 

[Charles Cain]

Each section can be replaced with toyota parts, pre-bent and properly flared. The alternative is to bend and flare each piece in a custom way. I would recommend replacing with toyota parts. Most sections cost less than $50. You can probably find a better deal by shopping around (maybe rock auto or Partsouq).

Rusty parts will be tough to remove, but you will save a ton on labor if you do it yourself. Use penetrating fluid and, if necessary, heat, prior to removing rusty junction bolts.

Obviously, bleed the entire system afterwards, and cap any sections that you leave open for any prolonged periods.

Man thank you so much, this is a game changer. Also do you know where to find a diagram for fuel lines or do we need to make them?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

You will need the three main lines in the second picture... may as well buy all the mounts too:

 

[ILcruiser]

I had an indy shop replace all my steel brake lines (had rust spots) with nickel/copper so they won't rust in the future. Those plus the rubber lines to the calipers, all in, cost around $800.

 

[kwill32]

Has anyone replaced the brake tubes on a 100 series. I got a quote for $1400. I was wondering how tough it is. I am struggling to find much information on here, but then again I am new to the forum. I see a lot of folks doing the break hoses but my lines/tubes are rusty. Another mechanic asked if the lines had bubble flares, double flares, or single flares. From what Ive read its mainly double flares with the possibility of some bubble flares at certain brake components, but I have found nothing definitive. I also need to do the fuel lines too, one mechanic said not to touch them. He said if he dropped the fuel tank that it could total the vehicle because the bolts will all brake ect. I don't think that seems logical. If the bolts brake on the fuel tank skid plate straps could i not weld them or find away to repair it?? Any help on this would be great! Sorry if there is a huge thread on this already, and I just didn't find it.

C.J.

2000 LX 470
AHC Delete
Upgraded stereo and camera

I could be wrong, but I think your mechanic just doesn’t want to do the extra work. I had a similar experience.

I also have a pretty rusty cruiser. I just had the stealer replace my tank and straps, not the fuel lines though. They are still in good shape. The mechanic only replaced one strap with a new one because he was afraid the other would strip. It’s pretty frustrating when you pay dealer prices for subpar effort. I haven’t found a mechanic yet that wants to mess with a rusty vehicle.

 

[westwardCruiser]

This thread is the most helpful one I could find, but I still have a question that hopefully someone can help me with.

I have an 04 LC (with ATRAC) and I'm guessing that because of that I have 2 brake lines going to the rear, vs the one shown in the diagram above. I need the tube that runs along the passenger side frame. It would be similar to 47322.

What would be really helpful is if someone knows where I can find that same parts diagram for a 2004. Thanks!

 

[westwardCruiser]

Well I did some more sleuthing and I think I found it here:

Каталог запчастей TOYOTA и LEXUS

Part 47327-60112 (Tube, Rear Brake, No 7)

 

[SiF Motorsports]

I did all the fuel lines and brake lines with OEM on my 99. The long brake line run from front to rear we did with copper nickle for sanity sake. Fuel lines, tank, skid, straps were all replaced. The prebent fuel lines sucked to snake between the cab and frame. It can be done, it just really really sucks.

 

[Supra88]

I did all the fuel lines and brake lines with OEM on my 99. The long brake line run from front to rear we did with copper nickle for sanity sake. Fuel lines, tank, skid, straps were all replaced. The prebent fuel lines sucked to snake between the cab and frame. It can be done, it just really really sucks.

I noticed a gas smell, got under the 100 and found a "wet spot" on one of the main fuel lines. it's not dripping, but definitely corroded through.

I've already replaced the fuel tank and skid due to corrosion! What other ancillary parts would you recommend buying in addition to the main fuel lines to make the install go smoothly?

Did you have to drop anything to "snake" the lines through? Any help on this in advance would be great.

Thanks!

 

[SiF Motorsports]

Rock auto tank, rock auto straps, used rust free skid repainted. Reused fuel pump sender. Feed, return, and evap lines OEM from dealer. The evap has a longer line, a rubber section, a short hardline. I deleted the short hardline and ran it all rubber. Snaking the OEM lines between the cab and frame SUCKS. They arent in the perfect OEM position, but I used a bunch of plastic fuel line clips to lock them down.

 

[RobE30]

These lines remind me of my old 93 LC, not a fun time. Happily my 94 LC looks pretty good for now. Any recommendations to keep the rust at bay?

 

[SiF Motorsports]

Fluid film, car washes. I'm going the easier route and driving my WRX all winter while I upgrade the 100.