Brake rotor overheating after brake job

[CrackerBob]

Maybe someone with experience with front axel rebuilds and brakes would know this:
I did the front axle and new 100 rotors and pads job. Bed-in the brakes and after 18 miles I've got one wheel with a tiny bit of play in it when off the ground. Is this okay? Should I tighten down the wheel bearing a little?
The other wheel doesn't have any play in it, but the new brake rotor is much hotter than the other side. Is this normal? Or is this a sign of a bearing too tight? Brakes too tight???
After four days on this I'm close, but since I need to use the vehicle this weekend for a trip I'm getting mighty worried.
(The reason I did the axle job is so I wouldn't need to worry about smoking a bearing on the trip! )

 

[john_eckels]

There shouldn't be any slop. Did you use the fish scale method to check the tightness? Below is a link to the front axle rebuild guide. Post 23 - 26 are applicable to the front bearings. This clearly explains the procedure for setting the pre-load.


https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78276-front-axle-rebuild-faq.html

 

[CrackerBob]

I used the FSM and printed out the FAQ front axle quide. Both are very greasy now.
Used the fish scale method with a bocagrip. I'll tighten up the side with play in the morning.
Still worried about the other side with the over-hot rotor...

 

[badmuthatrucka]

Am I reading your post correctly? Did you only replace one rotor? That should not usually be an option in one's mind. That can cause some problems in proportioning, depending on how big a difference there is between the two on an axle.

 

[bpenn1980]

I believe that ANY play in the 9-3o'clock and 12-6o'clock positions is not good. Search under LandTank, he has a good write up for checking this. If you have play back and forth from 12-6o'clock then your bearings need to be tightened. If its the 9-3o'clock wiggle then something in your steering has play.

I would absolutely check your preload on the side you say is getting hot (do both sides). Regardless of overheating, its a good idea to check the preload after you put some miles on the truck after doing the bearings. Good peace of mind too.

 

[CrackerBob]

Replaced both rotors with new 100 rotors and brake pads from cdan.
Thanks for the tip bpenn1980! LandTank link:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/137411-front-axle-evaulation-faq.html

Going outside as soon as it's light enough and tighten the bearings on the ps. Still have an overheating rotor on the ds to deal with though...

 

[powderpig]

As others stated, no slop is better. As for the 100 series pads, were they a very tight fit? if they rubbed when you installed them, especially on the side that is hot, this will create you rotor heat. If this is the case, a little time and the rotor will self clearence the pad. If it was a rear tight fit, remove some of the squeal shims and let wear down a bit before you install the shims. Good luck Robbie

 

[peepers]

shouldn't you have 80 series rotors and 100 series pads?

 

[CrackerBob]

shouldn't you have 80 series rotors and 100 series pads?

I honestly don't know. Whatever was in the package cdan sent...

powderpigAs others stated, no slop is better. As for the 100 series pads, were they a very tight fit? if they rubbed when you installed them, especially on the side that is hot, this will create you rotor heat. If this is the case, a little time and the rotor will self clearence the pad. If it was a rear tight fit, remove some of the squeal shims and let wear down a bit before you install the shims. Good luck Robbie


Got the slop out of the one side by tightening the bearing just a little...
Bled the front brakes and did a 6 mile test drive. Rotor is still way hot. I may try another, longer, test drive before taking one shim from each brake pad since it was indeed a tight fit when I put it back together... Thanks for the tip!

 

[bpenn1980]

I honestly don't know. Whatever was in the package cdan sent...

powderpigAs others stated, no slop is better. As for the 100 series pads, were they a very tight fit? if they rubbed when you installed them, especially on the side that is hot, this will create you rotor heat. If this is the case, a little time and the rotor will self clearence the pad. If it was a rear tight fit, remove some of the squeal shims and let wear down a bit before you install the shims. Good luck Robbie


Got the slop out of the one side by tightening the bearing just a little...
Bled the front brakes and did a 6 mile test drive. Rotor is still way hot. I may try another, longer, test drive before taking one shim from each brake pad since it was indeed a tight fit when I put it back together... Thanks for the tip!

I'm interested to see if a rubbing brake pad is the cause. I think I had something similar on my PS after installing new rotors and 100-series pads.

 

[Squash]

Check the caliper pistons one may be sticking.
This will happen because the piston was further out with the old pads in order to compensate for worn brake pads and this area was nice and shiny, now with new pads you are causing the piston(pistons) to retract into unfamiliar territory which probably has a comination of rust/scale and or road junk. It takes little time to remove the pads and cycle the pistons in and out till you feel that the drag issue is gone.

I usually pull back the piston boots and lube with a white grease areosol spray to combat road salt and water crossings.

 

[Thermodyn]

Check the caliper pistons one may be sticking.
This will happen because the piston was further out with the old pads in order to compensate for worn brake pads and this area was nice and shiny, now with new pads you are causing the piston(pistons) to retract into unfamiliar territory which probably has a comination of rust/scale and or road junk. It takes little time to remove the pads and cycle the pistons in and out till you feel that the drag issue is gone.

I usually pull back the piston boots and lube with a white grease areosol spray to combat road salt and water crossings.

This is what I was thinking as well. Check for a seized piston.

 

[CrackerBob]

I took one set of shims from the pads on the hot side and it's def cooler now, cooler than the other side in fact. The brakes are better than before the rebuild.
I've driven it over 100 miles, no slop in the wheels, brake rotor cooler - so tomorrow morning I'm setting out on a 500 mile trip...
Thanks to everyone for the help!

 

[bpenn1980]

Check the caliper pistons one may be sticking.
This will happen because the piston was further out with the old pads in order to compensate for worn brake pads and this area was nice and shiny, now with new pads you are causing the piston(pistons) to retract into unfamiliar territory which probably has a comination of rust/scale and or road junk. It takes little time to remove the pads and cycle the pistons in and out till you feel that the drag issue is gone.

I usually pull back the piston boots and lube with a white grease areosol spray to combat road salt and water crossings.

Update:

You're are right.

After the "hot" smell finally went away, I would still have this slight clunk after taking off from a stop. It took me a while to figure it out, but it was the brakes. I pulled the pads, lifted the boot and smeared Mobil 1 synthetic grease on the pistons. I hope that grease is ok to use. After about 50 miles the clunk has disappeared and I suspect that sticky pistons were the root cause of the overheating on that side as well.

Also lubed the driveshafts and u-joints as well, so its possible one of those were the culprit, but I think it was the brakes.

 

[davnic6]

You may have to replace them mine started sticking again so I ended up replacing both of them. I would check them often.