Brake replacement, bearings, CVs, tie rods, etc...... where do i stop (1 Viewer)

[FLWookie]

So my rusty crusty LX needs new brakes. Not just pads but rotors, calipers and lines, up front at least. Everything is so rusty it just needs to be swapped for new. My conundrum is where do I stop.

Since I'll have the hubs apart to replace the rotor, obviously I should refresh the bearings. My biggest question is whether to fully replace the CVs or just reboot; so i ask you Mud, what is indicative that a CV needs to be replaced? Financially I'd rather just reboot and call it a day. None of my boots are torn but they are probably at the end of their lives.

Thanks for the input!

 

[2020 Rocks]

I am just now starting to come out of the rabbit hole. I recently did low bj's, rebooted upper ball joints, new cv's from NAPA, repacked wheel bearings, new calipers, tie rods, steering rack, sway bar bushings, probably forgetting something, the rabbit hole is a deep one. I would address the brakes first, you more than likely have some time before needing to mess with the cv's unless they are clicking when you are turning or there is obvious drive line noises occurring. I found the Callahan reman calipers on Amazon to be top quality so far, about 100 bucks for the pair.

 

[FLWookie]

I am just now starting to come out of the rabbit hole. I recently did low bj's, rebooted upper ball joints, new cv's from NAPA, repacked wheel bearings, new calipers, tie rods, steering rack, sway bar bushings, probably forgetting something, the rabbit hole is a deep one. I would address the brakes first, you more than likely have some time before needing to mess with the cv's unless they are clicking when you are turning or there is obvious drive line noises occurring. I found the Callahan reman calipers on Amazon to be top quality so far, about 100 bucks for the pair.

Thanks. I was planning to go with the heavy duty Powerstop kit on RockAuto that comes with rotors, calipers, and pads. Haven't seen any bad reviews on those kits.

 

[2020 Rocks]

Thanks. I was planning to go with the heavy duty Powerstop kit on RockAuto that comes with rotors, calipers, and pads. Haven't seen any bad reviews on those kits.

I looked at those, but had to tone it down a bit based on my other LC spendings. lol. I have not heard anything bad about powerstop stuff yet.

 

[abuck99]

Leave the boots alone until they leak or tear, or the axles start clicking. When you reboot- you stand a good chance the CV's will vibrate afterward-since the disassembly will not go back together exactly as before; bearings same position in cages, same orientation in established wear marks inside the tulip.

How many miles on wheel bearings? Carefully remove the bearings and inspect for discoloration, pitting, gouges on the bearing surface. If not present probably ok to clean-re-grease and reuse- if you have over 250k on them- you might consider replacing depending on how you use the truck.

Rotors: measure thickness and if still in spec, have them turned(recut) for $20 ea

Whats wrong with calipers? Sticking? If pistons are sticking, the bleeder is frozen to caliper its cheaper to buy rebuilt calipers loaded with pads & all.

Brake lines: leaking or just bad looking?

TRE's: remarkable play, loose, torn boots?

 

[FLWookie]

Brakes: pins have been stuck for a while, uneven wear and bad pulsing when stopping and now some grinding noise. Truck only has 170K but it spent 150K of that in Maine and is very rusty. Driverside brake transfer block disintegrated during header replacement so i'm pretty sure the pass side will do the same when i replace the calipers. Rotors have significantly uneven wear. Soft brake lines are starting to show cracking.

No idea how many miles are on wheel bearings, likely they are original and have never been repacked. I would feel better knowing they are fresh and properly adjusted.