Brake Proportioning Valve for FJ40

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Sep 16, 2004
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I need some tech info on installing a brake proportioning valve on my 77 FJ40.
I have the Man a Fre rear disc brakes instaled and they seem to lock up upon braking very easily. i mounted the valve right on to the brake booster unit , but it looks like there is a factory type valve on there that is in between the master cylinder and the brakes. Do i bypass this or plumb the valve through it?
Any suggestions would be helpful :confused:
 

Archengine

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When I set up my rear discs, I eliminated the rear factory prop valve in favor of a adjustable one from Wilwood. It allows perfect dial in and bias, not too mention its adjustable for different loads.
 

HawkDriver

 
 
 
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Archengine said:
When I set up my rear discs, I eliminated the rear factory prop valve in favor of a adjustable one from Wilwood. It allows perfect dial in and bias, not too mention its adjustable for different loads.
Ditto, 'cept my valve is from Summit. ;)
 
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i used a FZJ80 master for 4 wheel disc and no proportioning valve at all, works great. i also got rid of the factory valves below the master cylinder. any 4 wheel disc toyota master cylinder should work as long as the bolt pattern is the same. or try turning the valve the other way, i remember reading a post about the valves being backwards or something. good luck!
 
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DSRTRDR

I can mangle anything ...
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anybody got info on adapters for the OEM hard lines to the wilwood prop valve that avoid having to cut and double flare the hard lines? I remember seeing some vendor mention those adapters, forgotten who. The adapters are the only thing keeping me from the rear disk install, wish Man-a-Fre were clever enough to sell them with the conversion kit. Any help is appreciated.
 
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you didn't say which mc you are using but I used one from a fjz80 abs I was having rear lock up problems and just really bad breaking to where it was dangerous and almost rear ended people. It turned out (after trying an adjustable prop valve and everythng else) that the front port on the mc needed to feed the rear lines and vice versa. Not all mc's do this but the one I got was for a fjz80 it said abs on the side of the reservior and it had a front port that came out from the top. All this may be useless info to you but thought it might help others with similar problems. :)
 
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I'm looking for those exact same adapters myself for my '77 fj40 that I'm putting a new brake system on. I really don't want to run stacked adapters or reflare a line to make an adapter if I can help it.

I've been all over the web and can't find 10mm x 1.0 internal flare to 1/8" NPT. Edelmann doesn't show it in their catalog, and I can't find it on Wilwood's site either. Seems like a common need for installing an aftermarket proportioning valve in an import.

Jeff
 
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I just love how people like to toss the "use the search function" around. :mad:

How do you know how much searching I've done on brake fittings. Let's see, you found one topic that mentions Swagelok compression fittings that one or two have used for brake connections. If YOU did some actual searching outside of this community, you would find it very difficult to find many that support compression fittings, especially without internal mandrels, for brake applications. You'll find many sites though that warn against compression fittings. Swagelok does rate these fittings to over 5000psi on 3/16 tube, but did you bother to SEARCH Swagelok's information about the type of tubing to use, and the condition it needs to meet? The biggest is the surface finish of the tube, as it is very difficult for a compression fitting to fillin or seal where a small dent, or scratch is. I'm not saying that these fittings won't work, but what are the risks involved if you do? If you look(another word for SEARCH) to aircraft, auto racing, etc, you'll find that the AN type flare fitting is used more than any other.

So next time before you pull out the "why don't you use the search tool dummy", maybe you should ask or inquire about how much they've researched the subject.

Sorry to rant, but when I've spent literally hours looking at brake fittings and solutions, then post here about what I'm looking for, I don't need your type of help! Maybe try asking if we've looked at swagelok's, or just saying, Hey, I saw this, it might help. It's much more productive than your approach.

Maybe I got up on the wrong side of the bed.

Jeff
 
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I just put my proportioning valve in and bought a ton of adapters. I finally came to conclusion to double flare on both sides and very glad that I did. At least the way I had it configured to avoid double flaring, it was way to cumberson and ugly.
 
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i sure would like to know when yall get this problem figured out. i've disks in the back that lock up first and i'm waiting on a solution. surely somebody's got this figured out.
 

dgangle

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jeffery_1965 said:
I just love how people like to toss the "use the search function" around. :mad:

How do you know how much searching I've done on brake fittings. Let's see, you found one topic that mentions Swagelok compression fittings that one or two have used for brake connections. If YOU did some actual searching outside of this community, you would find it very difficult to find many that support compression fittings, especially without internal mandrels, for brake applications. You'll find many sites though that warn against compression fittings. Swagelok does rate these fittings to over 5000psi on 3/16 tube, but did you bother to SEARCH Swagelok's information about the type of tubing to use, and the condition it needs to meet? The biggest is the surface finish of the tube, as it is very difficult for a compression fitting to fillin or seal where a small dent, or scratch is. I'm not saying that these fittings won't work, but what are the risks involved if you do? If you look(another word for SEARCH) to aircraft, auto racing, etc, you'll find that the AN type flare fitting is used more than any other.

So next time before you pull out the "why don't you use the search tool dummy", maybe you should ask or inquire about how much they've researched the subject.

Sorry to rant, but when I've spent literally hours looking at brake fittings and solutions, then post here about what I'm looking for, I don't need your type of help! Maybe try asking if we've looked at swagelok's, or just saying, Hey, I saw this, it might help. It's much more productive than your approach.

Maybe I got up on the wrong side of the bed.

Jeff
Calm down there jeffro. Your hostility does not justify being acknowledged.

The point of the thread that I linked was to say I had the same problem and here's how I fixed it. A few others said wow, that's a great idea.

Regarding the suitability of these parts for this purpose, you seem to be over analyzing the whole deal. Don't like my solution? Fine. Post up what you find so we can all benefit. There are many things that will work but may not have the lawyer's approval. MAF labels their FDB kit as "for off road use only" because they claim it would be cost prohibitive to get DOT approval, hence the CYA statement. This may be the case here with Swaglok, Parker, etc. Good luck.
 
Joined
Aug 27, 2005
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Roseville
JT Outfitters sells an AISIN master cylinder for $129 that bolts directly to your booster and is calibrated for 4 wheel disc brakes which does not require a proportioning valve. My last cruiser had 4 wheel discs with a wilwood prop. valve and I could never seem to get it calibrated properly. I am getting ready to do a 4 wheel conversion on my current cruiser and am going to purchase the AISIN master cylinder, have talked to a few people using it and they are very happy with its performance.

Good luck.
 

dgangle

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I bought this same MC from Marlin Crawler. It is claimed to be for a 4WDB non-ABS 80-series. Christo at Slee says no such animal ever existed, at least for US models. It did not solve the proportioning issue. An adjustable proportioning valve helped but did not cure, either. Not bashing either vendor, it just did not do as they advertise. I would (and have paid dearly) pay more to solve this dilema.
 

HawkDriver

 
 
 
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missipboy said:
i sure would like to know when yall get this problem figured out. i've disks in the back that lock up first and i'm waiting on a solution. surely somebody's got this figured out.

Well, here's what my setup is. We determined this was a stock booster/master setup (05/75-08/79) a while back. My aft port runs through the pro valve (shown mounted to the booster) then routed to the rears, while the front port is routed directly to the fronts.

I guess that with a double piston/res master you only have to proportion the rears. You just put the valve in the rear system and adjust as necessary. Make sense?

It came this way and I'v never had to mess with it.
IMG_0007.JPG
 

HawkDriver

 
 
 
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Additionally it would make sense to me that if you have a single cyl master stock setup you would need the stock pro valve to split up the press for the front and back. So depending on what master you have, you may need to have a pro valve for the front and back.

Or in other words, if you run discs in the rear and the rest is stock then remove the stock pro valve and run from the single port on master to a splitter fitting then just throw on a pro valve to the rears to adjust as necessary. Did I get the mental pic across?
 

dgangle

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HawkDriver said:
Well, here's what my setup is. We determined this was a stock booster/master setup (05/75-08/79) a while back. My aft port runs through the pro valve (shown mounted to the booster) then routed to the rears, while the front port is routed directly to the fronts.

I guess that with a double piston/res master you only have to proportion the rears. You just put the valve in the rear system and adjust as necessary. Make sense?

It came this way and I'v never had to mess with it.

Before switching to Marlin's 4WDB MC (1" bore supposedly from the non ABS 80-series) I had the EXACT same set up on my 75/08. I had terrible proportioning problems with the rear locking first, even with the Wilwood/Summit adjustable prop valve. It helped, but didn't get it all the way. Now put on the hardtop, doors, 4 people in it and a full tank of gas an it stops fine. I even went so far as to put 2 adjustable propo valves in the rear circuit and then it wouldn't stop at all.

Makes me think my problem is somewhere else. My next step is going to be to switch the front and rear lines on the MC. This trick is supposedly only for ABS 80-series MC's with the front port that points upward, but I am running out of things to try.

Hawk, where did you get the production date info? I understood the dual diaphram boosters we have to have started in 75/09 when the factory FDB started. I previously owned a 75/07 and it had a single diaphram booster with drum fronts. My current 75/08 had drum fronts too but the dual diaphram booster. I have heard stories of Toyota using up items in stock on later months prod dates to depleat stock and vice versa, but 4 months early?
 
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