Brake problems - need advice (1 Viewer)

[CruiserMoose]

Before I start buying parts and replacing, I thought I would put this out here for your thoughts.

I bought my FJ62 a few months ago out of state. Drove it home (the brakes sucked then) brought it home put it on the lift and have been working on it since. Just before I bought it, the previous owner replaced the booster.

I just put on all new calipers on each corner and a new brake line. Today I tried to bleed the brakes. I bled the crap out of them and I am relative confident that there cannot be any air in the lines. I cannot detect any leaks.

I never get any pedal. Usually when you bleed you get to a point where you can feel the pedal go down when you open the bleeder. I never get to that point. The pedal goes to the floor.

Could it be a bad master cylinder? Booster? Other thoughts?

Thanks for your help.

 

[3_puppies]

calipers on all 4 corners? does it have 4 wheel disc?
usually a bad booster would be a harder pedal as it would be similar to old manual brakes.
I would check the clearance between booster and master, it may need to be adjusted.
could also need brake rod adjusted?
could be bad master?

 

[bentonrover]

No drums in rear? If you do try adjusting them and also check out the bell cranks. Ebrake work?

 

[SteveH]

On my FJ40, I had to manually adjust the new rear drum shoes very close to the drum (lightly dragging) before I got any pedal. Don't underestimate the importance of this.

The FJ40 has front disks and is not greatly different from an FJ62. You might also bleed the rear LSPV above/ahead of the spare tire, as you are bleeding all the brakes.

 

[CruiserMoose]

Thanks guys.

Sorry, I should have made that clear. I have Diamond axles that have been converted over to discs on all four.

The e-brake is not currently hooked up (another issue for another day).

Thanks

 

[CruiserMoose]

calipers on all 4 corners? does it have 4 wheel disc?
usually a bad booster would be a harder pedal as it would be similar to old manual brakes.
I would check the clearance between booster and master, it may need to be adjusted.
could also need brake rod adjusted?
could be bad master?

3_puppies, did not know there was a specific clearance needed between booster and master. I either need to research that or take it to a brake specialist which would mean trailering it there.

 

[3_puppies]

some use a special tool/jig to set the depth or you can use grease or similar to set it.
the should be write ups or other threads detailing this

 

[CruiserMoose]

While I am at it. My conversion used 2004+ Tacoma brakes in the front. Does anyone know where these clips go?

 

[Godwin]

3_puppies, did not know there was a specific clearance needed between booster and master. I either need to research that or take it to a brake specialist which would mean trailering it there.

No need to take it to a shop with this inexpensive tool you can set it yourself.

Power Brake Booster Tool

Power brake booster tool Makes installing the master cylinder on to your power brake booster simple Helps determine push rod length when updating to power brakes or custom applactionsThe brake booster adjustment tool first pre-fits the master cylinder rod into the master cylinder at the proper...

www.classicchevy.com

 

[FJ60Seth]

If the PO replaced the master cylinder, or let it drain while replacing the booster, that may be where you have air trapped. You can bleed it by temporarily running a short length of break line from each port back to the reservoir.

 

[CruiserMoose]

Thank you everyone. This has helped a lot.

Now back to the garage.

 

[SteveH]

Those clips look like wear indicators to me.

 

[CruiserMoose]

Still working on the brakes. I just replaced the MC thinking that was the problem. While it was off I checked the depth of the pin on the booster and adjusted that. I bled the MC and then installed and bled the crap out of the lines. Still no peddle.

Today I lifted the front end up and found out that I have absolutely no brakes on the front. Mind you, these are brand new calipers as well. I don't get it.

At first I wondered if I used the wrong copper washers and so it wasn't getting pressure. However, if that was the case I think I would still get a peddle, just no braking and plus, I can bleed the brakes so I assume it is getting pressure.

So, no peddle and no front brakes. I am just about ready to take it to a shop and have them address it but thought I would put this out here one more time to see if anyone had any ideas. I cannot think of anything else to try.

 

[gt7058a]

Are you seeing any movement at the front calipers when you apply brakes? If not, do you see the booster pushrod move when Mc is unbolted and pulled away?

 

[gt7058a]

And is the booster getting vacuum?

 

[CruiserMoose]

I see no movement in the front but I do see movement in the rear brakes.
I thought about taking the MC off and make sure I get movement in the pushrod. I figured I did because the rear brakes work but perhaps I will check in anyways.

I have a vacuum tester, I will check to make sure I am getting vacuum in booster.

Thanks for the ideas.

 

[gt7058a]

Any chance the PO has a proportioning valve on the front circuit?

 

[3_puppies]

are you getting good volume out of the front calipers?
how are the lines hooked up on the master? front resevoir going to front axle?
bad master? what master did you get?

 

[60Works]

Is the pedal firm like it should be?

If not, it's likely still air in the master. Bench bleeding is essential because the booster doesn't fully push the piston to the stop. Even on the bench air can still be trapped. It can be incredibly frustrating.

 

[CruiserMoose]

No proportioning valve. Lines go right to the brakes.
Getting good volume out of the front lines. Not sure how the lines are hooked up, I will check tonight. I just changed the MC, not sure what brand, I got one from Auto Zone.

No the pedal is not firm at all, it goes right to the floor without much resistance. I did bench bleed MC before installation. I may have to do it again.