Brake pedal is harder than Chinese ‘rithmetic! (1 Viewer)

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Try a search for SEIKEN brake booster in this forum
 
Before you buy a booster you should check your vacuum lines and check valve.
 
Before you buy a booster you should check your vacuum lines and check valve.
I inspected the lines and didn’t notice any leaks but did not notice a check-valve. Where is it located?

TIA
 
I inspected the lines and didn’t notice any leaks but did not notice a check-valve. Where is it located?

TIA
On the brake booster.
 
Not sure if you've pulled the wheels and checked the calipers?
 
Haha!
A stuck caliper will make the pedal hard.
Try touching the hubs carefully feeling for heat difference between all 4 wheels. Bear in mind that the sunny side is hotter!
 
On the brake booster.
Is this it?

1F685DB4-87CE-40A3-BEC5-3081A6E22136.jpeg
 
It’s definitely the booster.

Is this “44610-60792” a better than stock booster?
 
It’s definitely the booster.

Is this “44610-60792” a better than stock booster?
Better than stock? Highly unlikely. Very few aftermarket parts for TLC are better than OEM.
 
Is that p/n year-specific (and lhd vs rhd specific) as it's different to the p/n's I get out of toyodiy, etc. Can't find any new genuine brake boosters to suit my year of 80, and there have been quite a few p/n changes.

What's the most critical thing when replacing the brake booster? Some people say adjusting the pushrod. Anyone actually done it? There is a SST for it (I've got one somewhere I think).

For my 80, Toyodiy says 44610-60570 up to 7/92 and 44610-60770 from 8/92 up. If I put a really late build year in I get 44610-60803. Is the vacuum port on the same side of the booster body for lhd and rhd markets?
 
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