Brake Pad Question

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Nov 18, 2003
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My wife just told me that her 2004 LC is squeaking. I asked her when it does this and she says "when she's driving and her foot isn't on the brake." I assume the squeaking is a brake wear indicator reminding us that we need new pads. Is this correct?

Our LC has about 17,000 miles on it. Is this about right for new pads?

How long can we drive with the squeaking without wearing through to the rotors (It's been a couple of days, not longer)?

When I have them put on new pads, is there any adjustment I can ask them to do so the brakes aren't so sensitive (very little pressure on the pedal leads to pretty strong braking)?

As always, thanks in advance.
 
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Well, does the squeaking sound like scraping? You should definetely know when the pads are too low as it will sound like metal grinding. If in fact you are hearing the squeak layer in the pad, you can go for a long while on the pads still, but you should inspect the pads (just take tire/wheel off) to see how much pad is left and plan on changing them soon.

It is also quite likely that you simply have some obstuction in ther elike dust/pebble. Pads wear down quicly, but I don't think 17k miles quickly unless you drive hard stop&go or in mountaineous terrain. The pads are pretty easy to inspect with the tire/wheel off.

I would expect 30+k miles on pads personally.
 

UltraFJ40

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I'm with Scott. Unless you tow often or are braking a bunch, I'd expect around 30K plus on the pads.

My 95 was just squeeking when I didn't have my foot on the brake. "Sho 'Nuf :flipoff2: it was the pads, but I kinda knew that it was about time!

Check your pads and if the pads have less than 1/4", I'd swap them out, but only for Toyota pads. I've tried others and they create way too much brake dust.


Doug
 
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ebod said:
My wife just told me that her 2004 LC is squeaking. I asked her when it does this and she says "when she's driving and her foot isn't on the brake." I assume the squeaking is a brake wear indicator reminding us that we need new pads. Is this correct?

Our LC has about 17,000 miles on it. Is this about right for new pads?

How long can we drive with the squeaking without wearing through to the rotors (It's been a couple of days, not longer)?

When I have them put on new pads, is there any adjustment I can ask them to do so the brakes aren't so sensitive (very little pressure on the pedal leads to pretty strong braking)?

As always, thanks in advance.
I would pop the front wheels off, check both sides ( Inner and outer pads ) for wear, and go from there. New pads are quite thick ( 1/2 in or so), If you have less than 2/8" material at the the thinnest spot measured between the metal backing and edge of pad, replace them regardless. Some 100`s vary GREATLY between the thickest part and the thinnest part of the pad, sometimes the inner pad is much more worn than the outer...The wear indicator is normally designed to start making contact with the rotor at 20% ( 1/8" or so), thus making the typical "squeel"..

Of course check the rears if no wear is seen on the fronts...

And Yes, Please use OE pads...Most aftermarket pads are terrible !

I guess you can look at the " To turn the rotors or not when changing pads" Thread.. If your pads are worn enough to justify replacement, IMO... Considering the miles on your vehicle ( as long as you caught the pads before the metal backing is grinding into the rotor)..I would simply throw a new a set of pads on..The new pads will seat just fine.

It is very easy with basic tools to change out the front pads, but I dont see any way of reducing the "touchiness" of your brakes, it may improve with the pad change, however..
 
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+1 for brake dust or other obstruction unless your wife drives with a foot on each pedal at the same time. Since it is still under warranty I would take it to the dealer but ask them to show you the pads on the truck if they want to replace them for wear (since that would be on your dime). If it's dust they'll blow/clean them off and it may fix the problem.

I don't believe there is a "squeak layer" usually the wear indicator is a piece of spring-like metal that scrapes on the rotor like a fingernail on a chalkboard.



From "How Stuff Works"
Brake squeal is caused by vibration between the brake pads, rotors and calipers. Pad noise can be lessened or eliminated by installing "noise suppression shims" (thin self-adhesive strips) on the backs of the pads, or applying "noise suppression compound" on the backs of the pads to dampen vibrations.

Conditions that can contribute to a disc brake noise problem include glazed or worn rotors, too rough a finish on resurfaced rotors, loose brake pads, missing pad insulators, shims, springs or antirattle clips, rusty or corroded caliper mounts, worn caliper mounts, and loose caliper mounting hardware.
 
Last edited:

Landpimp

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seem low miles to me for the 100's. I hav 20K+ on mine and they have a ton of pad left, I drive mostly around town so alot of brakiing.
 

SWUtah

 
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3fj40 said:
Yeah, don't let anyone turn your rotors, you simply don't need it unless there's something really wrong.
Talked with a Brake expert this week at SEMA about turning rotors. He said not needed unless you have a vibration. These guys sell the equipment to turn rotors. Asked him why some shops always want to turn the rotors. His comment was that it is more profit for them and safer since they eliminate any possible problems with the brake job. I just bought toyota front and rear pads for my 100 series and when I rotate tires every 5K montor the wear and change the pads when required. I just rotated the tires on my 2004 4runner at the 30K mile mark and have atleast another 15K left on the fronts. My old 1995 FZJ80 needed pads like clock work every 20K miles on the fronts and 40K miles on the rears and I never turned the rotors.
 
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This is probably a ``bad thing'' but my wife let the rear pads too low on our 80 and ended up metal-to-metal. I just shoved some new pads on there. Took a while to seat in, but brakes just as if it were off the lot. As you said, unless they are truly WARPED (which takes a LOT) I just don't turn 'em.
 
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Brake Vibration after driving and braking at high speeds

Hi,

My Land Cruiser Cygnus 2004 is giving a problem when driving at high speeds and braking ...it feels like BUMPING like the car is going over rocks when braking. This ONLY happens if I drive at speeds over 95 miles and brake a few times. But after awhile when the brake rubber is cooled off and if i brake at say 65mph or even accelarating up 95 mph and brake nothing happens, but if i brake a few times after taking up to 95mph the problem occurs again. Does it have anything to do with Stock brake heat? Should I replace the brakes with TRD brake pads? Would that do any good?

Saad
 
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I rarely have the opportunity to drive those speeds, but it sounds to me like classic ABS kicking in at inopportune times, or ABS at those speeds kicks in anyway from the ECU (that I do not know).
 
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I've heard that about vibrations and squeel, but my breaks squeel like a mad pig on speeds <1mph on the trail; I'm not fully sold that all squeel is from vib's.
 
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Never had the ABS kick in when braking, even from 100+.

I agree that the BUMPING really sounds like something that could only be caused by the ABS acting up. Could one of the wheel speed sensors be out of wack and at those high speeds the very slight change in speeds from brake application throws the ABS on. How about if one wheel had no effective brake it would continue to spin and ABS would assume a "slip" and kick in.

Because vehicle speed is a factor I think speed sensors are a logical spot to start working from.

ABS system self-diagnostic is in FSM DI-218. Get a stopwatch!

Start by removing the short pin from DLC1 (front right engine compartment) then connecting terinal Tc and e1 of DLC1

1. release parking brake
2. ignition to on - ABS light on for 3 seconds
3. brake warning light goes on then off when engine starts.
4. 120 seconds from when you put the ignition to on- pump the brake full stroke 10 times in 10 seconds

now the fun part
read the code by watching the ABS light blink a 2 digit numerical code- Flash x times then 2.5 second pause then flash y times = code xy.
 

spressomon

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SINCITY100 said:
And Yes, Please use OE pads...Most aftermarket pads are terrible !

.

SINCITY: Which Non-OEM pads have you tried on your LC and what are/were your complaints with them?
 
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